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craigacc

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  • My Bike(s)
    Ural M66 1975
  • My Story
    Restoring an M66 which has been abandoned for many years.

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  1. Problem resolved. A new ignition switch sorted it out. It must have been shorting somewhere, though I couldn't spot the problem with the old switch. the contact in the new switch doesn't even get warm when the ignition points are closed and the bike runs fine. Now onto a charging issue. On this though, the generator is farped I think. Tried repolarising it, but it's dead - no 'flashing' sparks when doing the repolarisation and the charge warning light stays brightly on. Time for a new one. It is 45 years old and nothing lasts forever. Thanks for all the feedback on the question I asked.
  2. I tracked the problem down. The ignition switch 'points' heats up when the actual ignition points are closed. So there's a strong power drain through the coil and into the points. When the ignition points are open, the rest of the wiring and lights etc are all fine. Does this suggest a faulty coil? Or is this normal as suggested above - I get where the author of the last reply is coming from (thanks for your input BTW) But to add further info, I added a fuse straight after the battery positive. It blows fuses less than 25amps. The contact in the ignition switch don't just get warm, they get extremely hot very fast and would be a fire risk if left for any period of time. I appreciate that current will run straight through the coil to ground via the ignition points when they are shut, this is normal. But on other points based ignition systems, it's the coil that warms up if it's left not running in this state for any length of time, not the entire ignition circuit. Suggests to me that the coil is breaking down inside? Any further thoughts? Craig.
  3. Thanks for the replies - very much appreciated. Yes, the culprit is the feed from the switch to the points and coil. Will investigate further. Curious as it was all working OK when stripped down, Cheers, Craig.
  4. Hi all, I have a 1975 M66 Ural which is nearing the end of a restoration. The ignition switch gets very hot on the 'points' which join together when the key is pushed in. I've an inline fuse by the battery on the positive lead. Low amperage fuses blow immediately you push the inition key in, the ignition switch gets got at the 'points' when using a higher amperage fuse Otherwise the lights etc all work OK, though not tested the spark at the plugs yet (was all OK when the bike was stripped) I know the generator is suspect, but disconnecting it does not stop the ignition switch getting hot It has a brand new regulator/rectifier fitted Other aspects of the wiring have all been refurbished and proper modern connectors fitted. The ignition switch is original, but cleaned up and wiring connections refreshed. So current is 'leaking' into a short circuit somewhere. Any ideas? Many thanks. Craig.
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