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Everything posted by HJKO

  1. Thanks for your reply’s. My rubber manifold adapter har some cracks, but when looking for new ones nothing seems to fit my manifold. My engine is a 650cc and bolt distance is 53 mm and intake opening is 33,5mm. It looks like the ones installed where adjusted, by adjusting the holes. so my question: is there a perfect fit or do I just order the mikuni one and adjust? other question: my thick rubber hose from airfilter to carbs is putting pressure on the carb which will increase the danger for cracks in the manifold adapter. Which type of hose can I use some is more flexible? Any suggestion? thanks in advance. Henk
  2. Update: it seems my left ciøinder is not working as the head stays cold. Tried to adjust idle speed and air screw without any effect. Difficult to se if petrol is running. The right cilinder seems to work fine, gets warm but after running several minutes it starts to make popping sounds, only when warm. any suggestion how to se if fuel is blocked, without opening the carberator? any idears why the right cilinder start makkng sound after several minutes (5+) running fine?? Thanks in advance Henk
  3. Hi Changed out carbs to Mikuni. When I started the engine went to about 840 rpm with choke open. (Top low??) After a some minutes I turned the throttle and ramped up the rpms. This went smoothly, but went I released the throttle the rpms went down and below the idle speed (choke still open) and after a short time the engine died. This happend twice and when closing the chokes after some minutes the engine died. 1. Why did my rpms dropped below Idle even with choke open after I released the throttle? 2. Must adjusting carbs and minimum idle speed be done when running on 1 cilinder with choke closed? 3. What is a normal Idle speed for my TM16 from ‘95? 4. What speed should the engine run when choke is open? I would expect more than 840 rpm’s. with regards henk
  4. @Russian Bike Nut What do you mean by "old british bike indy"?
  5. ok been riding a tour and filling up the tank. When starting the engine again I could not get it started without using the throttle. Used about 10 kicks to get it running:-( Does this mean the idle is to low? Or what is the reason it starts when cold (without choke), but not when warm? I ask a lot as all my former bike where japanse and I never had any starting problems there.
  6. Funny enough it there is no cap on these. It looks for me as the bore goes right down to the fuel chamber....... which carb do you use?
  7. Hello again, No one here who can tell me if the "calibration ports" no.27 on drawing really can be used for balancing equipment? The carbtune I use is hardly moving. I tried the methode I found in the articles and try to find idle for each side. Hard to say if they have similair speed, but on my (halv deaf) ears I am pretty close. Looking forward to hear some experience from you guys/ladies.
  8. Hi, Ok I check my tank and in outlet. The pipe is about sticking out inside the tank just above the bottom. The inside diameter of the petcock pipe looks for me about 3 mm. Rather small in my opinion, but ok, it has been working before. There is no filter in the tank, but it looks like there are no(t much) particles in the petrol. I changed out the inline filter and no dirt got in them when opening the petcock valve. I tried to tune the carbs at IDLE with the carbtune. Strange things are happening and I hope you guys can help me. 1) I checked how many turns from now position to completely screwed in clockwise. This was 5 complete turns. 2) the carbtune pro is connected to the "calibration ports" see attachements. - the Carbtune pro rods are doing almost nothing, I have to change the screws rather much before the move a little bit. 3) remove the airhoses to the carbs. Here comes now and then a sound like an air compressor which blows of a little bit. 4) I tune (as good as I can with these almost not moving carbtune rods) and get a rather nice IDLE, but as I do not have a tachometer I guess it is a rather high RPM. -reducing the IDLE ends up in a unstable speed, it goes from high IDLE to low IDLE and even stops (there is petrol in the filters although it seems to be almost nothing). -the unstable speed comes when giving gas and release the gas handle. Goes fine back to IDLE but after a short time the speed drops for some reason. -when stopped I need to give gas to get the machine running again, so I can turn the idle screw clockwise again to get the engine running IDLE. 3) The engine makes som popping sounds. My questions to those who have tuned these bike many times before: 1) which tools do you use? Carbtune og Twinmax or ?? 2) can the calibration port really be used for calibration equipment? 3) Is 5 turn from seatposition (seatposition = completely in clockwise), not rather high? Remember the former owner had it running fine me says. 4) What could be the reason that the IDLE is moving? 5) What could be the reason that it stops? 6) Is the a better carburetor which is from this time AND which can be mounted to the Dnepr MT16?
  9. Hi, there is quite a lot of dirt in the filters (my personal opinion) and as I am not sure about the NAS classification these carburetor can handle I prefer to have these filters in. Is it called NAS classification when talking about petrol and not oil?. I ordered new filters, hopefully this will help. Anyone know the max size of particles before the carburetor stops working. If it is a size bigger than the ones I find inside the filter I could get rid of the paper filter (and leave ut housing in the system). Next on the agenda is checking the tank, I need to find out where this dirt is coming from.But not today, today we celebrate the Norwegian Constitution Day here in Norway.
  10. We have something here called: Shell V-Power Nitro+ Blyfri 98, this is ethanol free petrol with octane 98. Not sure what I have in the tank as it is half full.
  11. Hi, Thanks for your reply. There is no flow direction on the filterhouse. Looking at the paperfilter, it make sense it is installed this way. If now the filter collapses it will block the outlet, if placed the other way the filter would open up and all drit gets inside the carburetor. However I have to assume that the previous owner installed it correctly. I took the hose off and there was a tiny bit of petrol running. I guess when running the enige on high RPM´s the petrol it getting suck out of the tank. Yesterday when trying to start the enige, there was no petrol when pushing the "float activator" (is that what they mean with "tickling the carburetor"?) I was told to use the tickler before every start. This worked before yesterday. Tried to use the choke, but no help there either. Now is the weather nice her in Bergen, so I guess this is ok. You have no visual petrol running, but does it take several hours for the filter to fill up after you stopped the motor? Is that normal? Do you close the fuel tap directly after you stopped the engine?
  12. Hi, I found a little petrol in the filters, about 1/4 was filled up. It took only about 7 hours. So after my tour yesterday I closed the fuel valve, all fuel disappeared during the night (on the left side as the right side was almost empty). Why??? Then when opening the fuel valve, it took about 7 hours to get a little petrol in the filters. So my question above is still the same. Any suggestions?
  13. Hi guys/ladies, First time on the forum as I just bought me a 1995 Dnepr MT16 and from day 1 it seems I have trouble with the fuel supply to my carbs (K68). For some reason the fuel is not running into to filter house (first only on the right side, but now also on the left side!). But when checking the hoses and the fuel valve on the tank everything seems to be working fine. Fuel is freely running when disconnected from the fuel valve on the tank (with and without fuel filling opening covered), every hose is clean. The filters are not that clean, but I would expect the fuel to run down into the filterhouse even is the filter element should have been completely blocked. The day I got this bike I had problems this the fuel supply to the right carburetor, but I could drive with it. When running idle the motor would stopp after a long time running on idle. This problem disappeared when raising the rmp´s. So I drove it with a rather amount of RPM´s. I borrowed som carb tuning equipment to check my Idle balance. But now I do not get the bike startet due to missing fuel. Is there anybody out here who can help me with some good suggestions where to look to solve this problem? Looking forward to get this bike on the road...... Henk
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