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About thecraftdude

  • Birthday 11/02/1996

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  • Interests
    Bikes, mead and beer brewing, electronics, computers, gaming

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    KMZ (Dnepr) k750M
  • My Story
    I own a K750M, this old lady have been mistreated by her previously owners, so she is in good hands now, but there is still a long way for her to be as good as perfect can be, especially until I can figure out, how to fix the “running to rich” and fouling the spark plugs, and honking up all the gas in no time :/

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  1. hello citisens of the internet, does any one of you know, where i can find a hinged rear fender, for at KMZ K750 in EU? i havent been able to locate any, only for the M72, or the solid rear fenders, even on ebay 😕
  2. its a one piece plastic lense, with a bulb for each, aka one for braking and one for the rear light
  3. Hey guys, my 1963 KMZ K750 just blew one of the rear light bulbs, but there isn't written anything on them, so I just wanted to ask, if any one of you know what wattage the K750 uses for both the rear and break light, since I can't seem to find anything about it online :/
  4. I finally managed to get the dynamo to work again, it turned out to be one of the coals that didn't deliver power correctly, it seemed to be where the wire was inserted into the coal, but after changing that, I got around 4.3V DC out of the dynamo, when spinning it at 750rpm, and after I paired it with a new used mechanical voltage regulator (original model for my bike, PP302), the bike charges the battery with no problem :D
  5. it could be a plausibility, but even at 750rpm, I should at least see 2V, not 0.15V :/ hmmm..
  6. yeo, it spins nice and well, and I just tested the field coil, its at 2.9 ohms, so it should be good enough (I think the extra 0.1 ohms, comes from the multimeter wires )
  7. so, my Dnepr k750 stoped charging the battery, the electronic charging relay from jan-buchwald.dk isn't something I can figure out how to see if it still works, but the dynamo is what that's confuses me. i have had it pulled apart, cleaned the brushes, cleaned the contacts on the commutator, checked it for shorts, checked the windings for any shorts or brakeges and resolderes them back in there exact locations that they where in before, checked the field winding, and everything checks out fine. i even tried to "flash" the generator, and no mater what I do, I can only get 0.15v DC when spinning the dam thing at 750rpm (like in this video: ) what is it that im doing wrong ? or perhaps might have overlooked
  8. nope I haven't, but im definitely going to check it out ^^ since one of the k302´s slide just broke :/, and I just fitted the k37 carbs so I could get home, but it won't even come with a little "PoP" when Im kicking the bike over, and even tickling it will only let it run for around 1 second, and the spark plugs are all dry and clean with great spark, not even sooty or anything, and I have cleaned them like I always does with carbs, checking for free passages and all of that, so im thinking about trying out the pz28 to see if I even can get it up and running, if not.. then im kinda lost ^^" since these are the most annoying carbs on any bike I ever have encountered
  9. hello people of the internet. im strongly thinking about changing my k302 carbs out for either my old pair of original k37 carbs or the pz28 I have laying around. Since the K302 is running WAY to rich, and I have tried rejeting, rebuilding, new spark plugs, hotter spark plugs, timing, ignition you name it, but they just won't run "normal" and always foul up the spark plugs. So those got to go, but I wanted to know, if you guys recommend either the pz28 or the k37 pairs of carbs, when it comes to the size (24mm vs 28mm), since I have read that many people have stated, that 26mm should work best for these old SV engines, and I have read that many have been using the pz28 carbs. I haven't been able to find any information about the k37 carbs, when it comes to needle hight or jet size and all that. But also about, with size carb will work best for my old Dnepr, when comparing these 2 against each other. And if I go with the K37 carbs, should I use the original needle jet with the holes in the top of it, the one that the needles slides up and down in, or the pz28 needle jet, since the k37 is around 5mm longer (from the treads and up) compared to the pz28´s needle jets. The last thing, the k37´s jets say 150, but they look similarly sized to the pz28´s .92 jets, how big is this jet actually? since I can't find any information about, how big these old actually are, compared to keihin or Mikuni jets. the carbs: PZ28D (28mm) (PL10 stamped on the front?) main jet: .92 (properly need a 95 or 98 jet to work correctly) idle jet: ? (a screw with a taper in the end) ---------------------------------------------- K-37 (24mm) main jet: 150 idle jet: 04
  10. One step forward and two steps back... I just finished putting my K302 carbs back together and all went well. After a few minor adjustments the bike fired right up and ran really well. I didn't have to give it gas, it just ran fine. after about five minutes of a slightly high idle it cut off. No choking or sputtering just cut off. I tried to kick it over and it wouldn't turn. I pulled the left spark plus since it is most accessible and it was total black soot fouled out. Ok I'm super rich again... I pulled the right side and it was nice and clean. Then I realized the right plug was cold. So its running on the left cylinder only now. The pin that connects to the bottom of the throttle blocks has 6 setting for adjusting. I put the lock ring in the third from the top. I can't remember if raising it increases richness or lowering does. Then of course I get to figure out why its running on one cylinder only too. have you had any luck with fixing the problem since then, I have the same bike with same carbs on, and I just can't get them to run properly (aka not sooting the spark plugs and fouling the out) :/ ?
  11. thecraftdude

    My old Lady (K750M)

    This is my old lady, she is a bit or a work in progress, especially the carbs :/
  12. Maybe.... Float height does in fact affect Mixture...even if not allowing Overflow.. If the Slide needle is all the way down, and jets are close... I suspect Float height! Or weak spark...or... Carburetion in general... certainly if those chiwanes replacements are in play!!! the floats needle are not adjustable, and are the same length as the original k301 floats, and they (of what I have tested to close the fuel off) and the new flouts way the same as the old brass floats (0.3grams more, to be exact), but I haven't tried the chiwanes carbs yet ;) but Im thinking about moving the parts from the pz28d over to the old k37 carbs, and see if they works better or not
  13. on these, well I have seen them floating over with the OLD brass floats (I think I still have them somewhere, but they do need some repair), but they didn't close off, so the fuel ended up floating over and out thought the float bowl on the side of the carb, so this would indeed happen, if the new needles didn't close of like they did with the old brass floats.
  14. the spark is nice and bright, but my guess is also to much fuel, but I just can't figure out what the problem might be so far :/ What Color??? If you believe the jetting and needles are even close... Lower the float height.. the sparks seems to be a bright blue/white color, its decently visible in the daylight, but the floats can't be lowered, there's only one notch in the float needle.
  15. the spark is nice and bright, but my guess is also to much fuel, but I just can't figure out what the problem might be so far :/
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