Vance Blosser

It's a massive challenge for them, that's for sure.

Sounds like the clutch. Sometimes particles of the friction material can build up between the plates preventing a good mating between them and it will slip under load. Sometimes this resolves itself, otherwise it requires removing the clutch plates. It can also indicate a clutch that is worn and just needs replacing. I will say that if I tear it down all the way new plates are going in anyways because although it's not too hard to access it can be a bear to reassemble and you WILL need a clutch alignment tool. Good luck.

I don't have a definitive answer but I know that they used to fit the older bikes without a starter, and there were some folks who didn't want a starter on bikes that came with them and had mounted a kick start only gearbox to a later bike. I don't think the bolt pattern changed but don't have any to examine. I'm also not sure about the driveshaft length. I hope someone can help you.

Computers don't understand English. You key in www.russianiron.com but that means nothing to the computer, so it asks a Domain Name Server (DNS) if it has a network address for this string of characters. It may not know the specific address but the DNS servers talk to each other and develop a history of ways to reach an address. In this case something went wrong with the DNS server that Russian Iron was connected to and it didn't finish the connection.

It would depend on whether you plan on reusing the holes - the smaller ones around the switch either need to be used or filled in to prevent water issues. And whatever switch you use should have a cover to keep water out. You will have to figure out the wiring for it since the switch will be different. You can make almost any switch work, even a universal one, but the cover you may have to improvise. Here are 2 Dnepr switches that appear to be the same except for price: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323380769111?hash=item4b4afef157:g:rFgAAOSwAllbZRSq https://www.ebay.com/itm/154173346472?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D236843%26meid%3D68ee64edec1f4f70b85f728794651384%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D323380769111%26itm%3D154173346472%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeed%26brand%3DDnepr&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A15417334647268ee64edec1f4f70b85f728794651384|enc%3AAQAGAAACMJGNr21EASJOEkR0%2BGgrlWDPCIJ%2FTtOE2YzeK6SQo2Sl4MEfYDtgIy44TMpb%2BlQIuI4sA7WZ65Va5104nUwQxS9ETmbqwg4fVoghwu5tM6Ela8rVSmNyP10GxPKH2XFgApfEpfHyRO%2BOeqRx%2F8SskMbH%2Bcx%2F77E%2FWk9gZO9DG4A4Is4u0lAfPyS0SThHxQi%2FE4M0wREWnmrh0JaGEkda4bY2Qm0%2BBvC2KnEItM%2BZ95UzGGJJSFaF4QEy2nV09mcAi9AybD7WrbVRB1M%2BeXs%2BQ2PgT6yJ3pZGNCGkErcrIDTFYjaF5inn0XSkGMyzJUY8dU%2BPilqMwuwH5TbcyTJ94pKhwnY1bX%2FB5mgx5Q5uUdkokyXpWiWq%2BXaZKSnI9fO1x3tm9xIXjQEMJsM%2BdCPv64M9Iop5TEXauaKipBOwXow5w7nAOiW2bZyiEKWigMuFFwRxjiZDiVIwhS0oWJkvzztS%2B8eyoLakixAuH05ELhaUmr04K1Xq0j%2FZQw%2FMsLQlAeKhbKoC%2BPLRSgX1vbO2zcIv72oskXolLKFDf2vi%2FKu5pNRGZAnSHxCeuTdaEbvqdwmpi%2Bmnbfd5H8AHENdNVbZvX%2FGJIONGKFDkSIKh3ctYxMkUrOlhGse8cgg%2BOj%2Fxm31C5Gd7ssdcuaS3%2BDsXnjHWeWMG3muyAJ9cvsnuGkHSlgyy55oR4oZwz3DpuiVMrzJrRqUUDM%2BFl%2Frr0KscufcQQIwBGQrIqWAlXeOYwYqg|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675

Here are a lot of LED panel lamps, I've used these on my bike and they look fine. Check to match the size you need. https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=12+volt+led+indicator+lights+waterproof&crid=2DA4M4EOU94O&sprefix=12+volt+led+ind%2Caps%2C103&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_3_15

I know of the Ducati ignition but I've never examined one. After the type III (which looked very much like the ignition shown above) they switched to a unit which was dubbed type 4 and it had the guts in a puck which sat over a rotor that looked like the one above. It had a photodetector (or at least it looked like a photodetector) that was triggered by the slot and it had an indicator LED on the front. You set the timing statically using the LED. This was short lived as the unit tended to overheat and shut down so they made the puck separate and mounted it outside the case to keep it cool. It still had some heat issues in hot weather so they switched to the Ducati. But there are some other ignitions that popped up on the aftermarket that are unique to themselves.

I'm glad you caught that, I was thinking it could be magnetic but on the Ural ignitions it was optical. The pot metal rotors would often throw a slug or get loose against the key and wobble and I thought maybe whoever made this one switched to prevent that. The main thing is to get him going!

This looks like a hybrid between a type III and a type IV. The Type III used a pot metal rotor with 2 steel slugs embedded at 180 degrees. The slugs triggered a sensor that fired the ignition and was set with the use of a timing light and the marks on the flywheel because when stationary (I.E. not running) the slugs didn't generate a signal. The Type IV moved the electronics outside the compartment but used an optical trigger with the type of rotor you have. This would generate a signal as long as the ignition had power. This was set by placing the timing mark on the flywheel in the round window while a 12 volt test lamp was connected to the input to the coil. The ignition would be set by loosening the retaining screws on the ignition module and slowly moving it until the light was just at the trigger point (going from off to on and vice versa). Tighten the unit down and you should be set. Since you have an optical sensor I believe this is the method you should use. Once you can get it started you can fine tune it with a timing light if desired. Good luck!

Looking even better!

You have plenty to keep you occupied this winter!

Alternate jets are readily available for the CVK carbs. Becky is doing well, almost back to where she was before all this. Thanks for asking!

Parts often get swapped out over the life of the bike and if a newer design will fit older bikes Ural only stocks the newer version. This may account for some of the discrepancies you noted. PS on the CVKs - they tolerate the ethanol well. At rallies I've seen some of the Russian carbs fail due to the ethanol.

I've owned my Retro for a bit over 17 years and the CVKs have only needed cleaning out a couple of times. No new parts on them, still the original diaphragms. I can't see any reason to change them out for anything else. Have fun with your new ride!

Good progress!