Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by js69

  1. The clutch bracket looks way cool! I have replaced my clutch cable with a much stronger one too, but have used the old mounting bracket. I have made myself a hand brake: Jürgen
  2. Nice. Have the same size lathe. So useful with our Bikes. Made a front axles out of stainless once with the left threads.
  3. Stick welding a fender requires some good skills. Nicely done.
  4. This was the holder that was on before. Lots of changs have the holder attached to the bottom of the shock but in a straight line. Not sure how the orginal looked like.
  5. Hey Luca, looks good! For mine, I decided to use the M72 style for the fender holder. One long 10mm round bar bent with the attachments welded on:
  6. Same with mine! Curious to know why they are not filled with fuel all the time
  7. I once drove off with the fuel switch still on off. The fuel bowl had enough for a half a mile or so and I was approaching a busy crossing. Engine stalled. Took a moment or so to realized the fuel switch might be off and with 10s of starting (felt like an eternity) the engine started again :) I'm curious to know where the gearoil went and what the reason was. A liter does not disappear just like like that?
  8. You should have only the cap with 5KOhm. I use BP7ES myself and with the 5K NGK cap they work pretty good. Having both the plug and the cap with resistors does not look like a good idea.
  9. The engine sounds very smooth. You put a lot of efforts in. Great work! And the color fits todays day (st. Patricks day) :)
  10. One important reason is when the switch gets a failure, it doesn't short from one of the contacts to the mounted chassis. That was at least the main reason for my solution. From theory, it doesn't matter where you interrupt.
  11. Nice work Luca! Did you use electrical solder with the resin core or did you used plumbers solder with a flux? I guess you used at least a 100W iron? Those metal areas draw a lot of heat.
  12. Using the biggest pliers (large water pump pliers works great) that fit, hold the plier with both hands and move the end loop over the post. Using a small plier (single handed) almost always failed for me.
  13. Changing/bending chrome tubes isn't an option without destroying them, and yours look decent! Not sure if I would use the mummy tape. Looks good as it is. Driving forth and back is exhausting I have done it once but it took only a few round trips. Just one more change…
  14. Like your tyre story :) I tried to get one on (4" on a 19" rim) and couldn't make it. Probably the soapy water could helped when I think about it. Took it to a motorcycle dealer (45$ for one tyre mounting). They did a very good job, not a single scratch and the wheel was perfectly balanced, but still, I like to do those things myself.
  15. js69

    final drive

    I have 140 gear oil in the final drive right now. Maybe not the best choice, but I'll change to 85w90 next week. Not sure if that makes a difference on the Spilling. So no oil gets spilled out with your cap? I have used 0.175l, but measuring with the gear bottle with the transparent stripe on the side is probably not the most precise method. Off topic, but the gearbox does not seem to be sensitive to overfilling. I actually read that it is common practice to overfill BMW airhead gearboxes. Not sure about other models.
  16. js69

    final drive

    Here is my solution: With an air tight oil screw the final drive leaks by pushing out oil through the main seal. First I had a simple hole in the oil screw (the one to the right). It stopped the leak through the seal, but sometimes it splilled oil out of the screw hole. It was not much. Just a little. I made a small round chamber (the stainless one to the left) with a hole that could hold a little bit of oil so that it could flow back. Worked really good, but still sometimes a little bit of oil spilled. So thats why I made a second chamber (the brass on in the middle) on top of it. With this double chambers, no oil is pushed out.
  17. Right, aluminum is not easy. You need a AC tig welder for this. They are more expensive that the normal DC welder! Great progress
  18. Since the ural discs are slightly larger than the ones sold for the CJ750, here is a solution if the clutch level rubs on a CJ750 gearbox: Cut with a hack saw as you cannot make such a sharp bend. The metal piece with the holes is a reinforcement. Add the reinforcement to the lever. The material is not high quality. Maybe not necessary, but I like to have things built that last forever. Painted and installed
  19. The URAL disc is slightly larger in diameter and a little bit thinner. Have to modify my clutch lever to make it fit.
  • Create New...