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Northernduck

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver,BC
  • Interests
    Motorcycles. Beer. More motorcycles

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    Dnepr m10-36, Ducati ST-2, Ducati Diavel, KTM 1090r, bmw k1200, Triumph America

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Russian Bike Nut

Russian Bike Nut (3/3)

  1. I bought new powder coated rims and spokes from Henriksson.ee. Can't remember what it cost but I do remember he was bringing them into Estonia from the UK. Excellent finish, not a scratch to this day. One of the four rims had a bit of an irregular surface where the seams are welded but honestly still very good quality. The original rims were so corroded bending was out of the question. Scary. ND
  2. Thanks Luca. I note Ural Zentrale sells upgraded valve springs for Dnepr 650 engines. I suppose the question is if I upgrade the springs should I go the whole route and restore the original heads that do not have misaligned rockers, sloppy valve guides and bolt holes that are so off center that I had to machine special washers to get them to fit. I'll have to think about this. I suppose there are a lot of options for carbs but if anyone has a favorite alternative to K65T's that won't break the bank I'm all ears. ND.
  3. Still suffering from rotated photos... Broke an intake valve spring pair on the way home from a trip yesterday, limped back on one cylinder. Took it apart and no damage done other than the broken spring. Cylinder and piston spotless. I recovered an old spring set (inner and outer) from an old set of crusty Dnepr heads and have it running again. But a bunch of questions arise.... The threads discuss weak Dnepr valve springs that suffer from overheating. Fibre washers have been fitted by KMZ to insulate from the heat of the heads (my valve train has no such washers) and moreover this is the left head which is running considerably cooler than the right head. This too is an anomaly as the threads pinpoint the left head as the hot runner. The right head is running much hotter and the carb is barely toucheable. I jacked the needles a notch to increase fuel cooing but no noticeable difference (Pekar K65T carbs). I suspect I'm facing multiple issues - the Pekars are not responding well to adjustments although last year everything was running smoothly. I'm also wondering from a reliability perspective if I should be changing out all valve springs so I don't get caught 500km from home... I've reworked, refitted, repaired and adjusted the K65ts endlessly and wonder if there is a better option. I also suspect these are two separate issues. The heads I'm running now are poor quality, slop in the guides, counterbores for mounting bolts way off center, rocker arms misaligned with valve stems... I might bite the bullet and have the original heads restored. Any advice appreciated. ND.
  4. Making your own harness is good fun but also forces you to understand each of the circuits, following on from previous comments I’d suggest drawing each circuit on paper, computer or whatever first so you have a work plan and record and something you can communicate to others if you get stuck. It’s not that difficult once you get stuck in and you’ll finish with a better product than the original with effort. ND
  5. Went for the first long ride this year, made up some new ignition wires which were dodgy before and finally have the regulator adjusted, sitting around 14v. Running very well, still have tweaking to do as ever. 200km in the sun, nice change after riding it in the rain and snow. Had a bad plug too, never happened to me before so running mismatched plugs until I can get another. Oh well. Best wishes. ND.
  6. Still have the wobble up to 30km/hr. The rig tracks perfectly straight at 50-60 km/h. Haven’t rechecked alignment yet but it can’t be that far off the mark. Went for 50 km in light snow today, had power steering here and there!!
  7. Adjusted toe in, mounted the tub, seats etc and took it for a ride. Slow speed wobble....not a tank slapper but difficult to manage until 30 km/h then it disappears. Stopped in parking lot to check head bearings and mounting bolts, everything seems ok. limped back home and looking at threads it seems it can be a number of things but some bit of wobble is normal and can be dealt with by getting the steering damper properly adjusted. Checked tire pressures, nipped up excessive slack in the sidecar wheel bearing and went for a 30 km ride, playing with damper. Seems a bit better but I’m also dealing with learning how to handle a rig, I’ve never ridden a sidecar before today. Arms are burning.... It could still be improper sidecar alignment or maybe it’s as good as it gets. I’ll ride some more and recheck alignment.
  8. Finally turned my attention back to finishing the sidecar, starting with new rubber bushes and axle for the swing arm. I had some difficulty checking the toe-in but as far as I can see there isn’t the 10mm specified in the manual. I’m relying on lumber for straight edges..... I’m tempted to road test it first because any adjustment will involve a torch and swear fest to free up the adjustable ball mount at the rear. If ok I’ll start working on the tub, interior etc.
  9. I use P45ts although the candlepower is pretty poor, they are only a few bucks. I recently tested an H4, note with a little work you can use an H4 in a P45t headlamp holder by swapping the wider base off the P45t to the H4 bulb. The connector is the same as we know. ND
  10. Thanks SB, in that case I’ll add it to my toolbox. Still learning....
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