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Northernduck

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    335
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About Northernduck

  • Rank
    Russian Bike Nut

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver,BC
  • Interests
    Motorcycles. Beer. More motorcycles

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    Dnepr m10-36, Ducati ST-2, Ducati Diavel, KTM 1090r, bmw k1200, Triumph America

Recent Profile Visitors

96 profile views
  1. Great to hear Rod. Lapping in a petcock valve body was a new approach to an old problem. ND.
  2. I haven’t tried that Rod but your approach seems good, let us know if it works. ND
  3. Definitely. I found the same, whatever they used to chop the standpipe to length left the fuel entrance burred, partially blocked. ND
  4. Petcock internals. The brand new standpipe was bent and needed to be straightened before drilling out!
  5. Confirmed, it's M14 x 1.5. I replaced the original (seized) with another original and haven't had any problems but I modified it a little bit first. They have (or should have) ample fuel tolerant grease in them or they are not going to last. Too much grease and it can impede fuel flow, mine suffered this. I also struggled to find an off the shelf crush washer to seal it in a manner that the petcock was orientated in the right direction when tightened correctly so I eventually made one out of aluminum on the lathe to the correct thickness. Further mods include drilling out the orific
  6. Should be M14 x 1.5. If nobody else confirms, I’ll check tomorrow when I’m home. ND
  7. Speaking of brakes, I was so disappointed when after all my efforts to set the front brake shoes perfectly, and then cleaning up the drum surfaces and shoes with 120 grit sandpaper for bite then rubbing alcohol for cleanliness the stopping power was still dismal. As if I had greased the damn things. I spent a lot of time on this. But now only a 100 km later I have very good brakes! It’s as if it just took a while for the surfaces to perfectly mate and I can actually dive the front forks now. I’ve read that feathering in pads and drum shoes is an art or maybe voodoo magic, there must
  8. Appreciated Nick. I don’t have the heart to pull it off again for such a minor leak, I’ll try some grease when I need to change the oil in the spring. I also have some minor seepage past the seal on the little rod that actuates the clutch release lever from within the gearbox. I’ll try a different o ring. Happy New Year to everyone. ND.
  9. I took apart one carb today because the idle mixture screw position made no difference so I suspected the idle jet was blocked even though I cleaned them recently and I’m running fuel filters. I could see a pinprick of light through the jet but after using the jet cleaning rod I noticed it was in fact partially blocked. Now the bike started easier than before and I adjusted the carbs to idle properly. Rode 45km and everything working very well, it settles down to a nice even idle. Exception...my new gasket didn’t stop the slow oil leak. Do you need to use sealant with cork?
  10. I discovered today that what I said above is totally incorrect. Apologies. My K65ts have rubber-like tips on the needles, I don’t why I believed otherwise. I didn’t see separate washers though. I did notice that they deform a small bit where they contact the seat but it doesn’t seem like dissolving due to ethanol which they certainly have been in contact with. In any case they do not leak. Still can’t figure out why all my pictures get rotated when I upload....ND
  11. Did just that, washed it with soapy water and put it on the motorcycle stand for some tlc. I finally got around to installing a quality cork oil pan gasket, it’s been leaking here for a couple of years and although it doesn’t really harm anything there is a build up of oily road grime I’d like to stop. This is of course in the delusional interest of owning a Dnepr that doesn’t leak. I’m still trying... sorry for rotated photos, not sure how to prevent this. ND.
  12. Did 50 km today, cold and freezing temperatures. The roads are salted here so the Dnepr came back covered in salt and not good for corrosion.... Russian iron rusts in a blink. Good news is the new regulator controls voltage around 14v and the charging system is working.
  13. Installed the new regulator and tested voltage, everything seems good. Charging kicks in with revs as it should, although the voltage fluctuates between 14 and 15v, maybe a bit high. I’ll take it for a ride today to see if it settles into a happy spot, it’s mechanical after all. The low voltage light is working as well for the first time. Just have to get the neutral light working and then electrics will be complete. Except the low beam stopped working, might need a new P45T. Such is Dnepr world, you get close to repairing everything but something else creeps into the mix...
  14. Finally received a new PP330 regulator today from the Ukraine, some spare fuses and centre stand return springs which I’ve compensated for with bungee cords.... Hopefully this is the end of running a total loss system. I tested new brakes arrangement in the dark the other night but it’s one thing running a coil off the battery and another thing running lights too. I’m hoping for proper charging in the coming days. I also ordered a cheap handlebar voltmeter to keep an eye on progress.
  15. Correction, I meant to say the original drum means machining and I swapped in other wheels to find the best drum, not hub.
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