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About Windsorlad

  • Birthday 04/03/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Windsor, Berkshire, England
  • Interests
    Tinkering on and riding bikes, keeping my 1974 river cruiser afloat, rugby.........

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    1975 Dnepr 650 outfit, 1976 Italjet, 1980 Honda CB250n brat bike, and my daily ride is a 20013 Triumph T100.

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  1. Thanks Colm, I bit the bullet today and have used windscreen adhesive to bond the rubber gasket to the new sump pan. Also purchased a length of 16mm x 4mm steel bar, I intend to make a strip for each side and both ends of the sump instead of the washers tomorrow. Should be ready to get the studs fitted next week. regards Graham
  2. Hi Colm, I have got a new steel sump pan and rubber gasket ready for another attempt, did you use any sealant with the gasket? regards Graham
  3. First registered in UK 1976 MT9: Frame and engine matched numbers 43807.
  4. Thanks for the advice folks, I accept old bikes leak (mark their territory) but I am talking Lower frame, swing arm footpegs and my boots covered in oil, to the extent that I can't keep my feet on the footpegs. I plan to have another go at it over the Christmas holidays.
  5. Windsorlad

    My Dnepr 650

    Hope to show the transformation of my 1975 Dnepr
  6. I am thinking about replacing the bolts with studs and would locktite them in, this I assume would sort any leaks from the bolts and avoid the risk of striped threads from repeatedly removing the sump.
  7. I have now had several attempts at sealing the steel oil sump on my 1974 MT9. I put it on the road earlier in the year and it leaked all round the joint. I replaced the paper gasket with a cork one but still the same. Cleaned everything and tried a rubber gasket, just popped out when I tightened it. My last attempt was a cork gasket with silicon sealant on both faces, a slight improvement but still getting oily feet. I am now considering an alloy sump but would rather stay with the original. Has anybody else had this problem and how did you cure it? Thanks in advance for any help.
  8. Thanks for the heads up, I am just waiting for my rear set to return with new shoes bonded with mintex material £40 inc postage. If yours work out I will get some spares.
  9. Thanks for the input, sounds like this is the most likely cause as I backed it off the trailer prior to the ride. I noticed a lack of power and then total rear brake failure, I could push the pedal halfway to the floor.
  10. On my way to the DGR my MT9 cooked the rear brake drum. I assumed I had dropped a shoe but on dismantling found just the leading edge worn. So why did it lock? Are the Dnepr style shoes ok in these wheels? Could it have just jumped on the cam? I would appreciate some input from somebody with a bit more knowledge than a mere novice like me.
  11. I converted my 1976 MT9 to 12v and its working with no problems. I was given the instructions and parts list (lucas regulator and a diode) by the Cossack Owners Club in UK. The conversion cost about £14 and a bit of my time. I put a picture in my gallery.
  12. I have not had my MT9 long and its not on the road yet but I start it once a week. It seems to start best (1st or second kick) with air intake levers raised and what I thought was an advance retard lever pulled fully. Is this lever a choke?
  13. Job done. next step is to get the sidecar lights fitted
  14. Agreed Harleych a screwdriver and hammer would do the trick but a couple of bolts drilled and welded into a flat bar to tighten the ring and the second tool for the locking ring I will fabricate from some flat bar.
  15. Now got the correct retainer and lock ring. Just an easy job to make a tool to tighten it and move on to the next problem.
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