Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

kokigamsky's Achievements

Newbie Member

Newbie Member (1/3)

  1. Don't take this Personally...just think on it... There was a Young man at the station the other day, whose truck wouldn't stsrt...old truck so I told hm to pop the hood. All new wires but ends corroded terribly and not one Fastener [connection] was more than finger tight....With three of us all holding wires tight against the Terminals [didn't have my Leatherman on me!!!!] got him going and he learned a bit about electrical connections... Again don't think I am dissing you...just pointing out that a Tight electrical connection is Critical!!! I would disassemble the whole thing and clean clean clean, then tight, and tidy..... no offense taken. I am definitely suffering from bad connections. I have spent an evening last week doing just that. managed to confuse some wires (they are mostly all pale pink now from fading) and damage my ingition, but, also got the tail lights, brakes and ignition circuits up and running. I have grounding issues that need solving on the brake light ( damage inside the light) and turn signals.. but a lot of my wiring problems are now resolved. I found a replacement side care (it was posted over in the market and on soviet steeds recently) to replace my rusty bucket. Will assess weather that can be salvaged after it is off. I have found a lot of pin holes in the tank, but found a tank, stateside, to try to replace it.. progress. Next weekend I go pick up the hack, and bring it home. Hopefully the tank will be here shortly. Then, I need to learn to balance carbs.. Almost as much fun as riding.. Still wish I had a garage. The bike is on a trailer, and I have occasional access to the work garage space, after work hours, otherwise I am on the street. Bad planning in my home purchasing 20 years ago.. In the long run, I would like to replace the wiring harness, one line at a time. I have ordered some waterproof connectors, and LED versions of tail lamps and turn signals. Don't be afraid to point to obvious things I may overlook. This is going slowly, because for each step I must track down and watch 30 minutes of youtube tutorials. (Does anyone here actually recommend muriatic acid to clean rust out of a tank? Vinegar was enough to cause the pinhole leaks and evaporust made them all three sizes bigger. I think Muriatic would have left me holding the top of the tank, watching the floor melt ala Alien.)
  2. Well, call me a dumb bunny. Lost power to the positive side of the fuse box, and was forced to revisit the fuses. (power loss was a wire disconnect at the ignition switch, but but that was another story). discovered that I was not getting power across the third fuse (due to corrosion). Had power the first time I checked, but I had pulled the fuse, and re inserted it, and lost it in the process. Cleaned a bit, and vroom, I got spark and brief life out of the engine. Now I have moved to cleaning up the fuel supply. I still don't have turn signals or brake lights. But progress. By winter, I will be able to drive it into my back yard and put it under a tarp.. only to start again next year.. (should have got a two wheel drive model.)
  3. Don't know how many people are running this, but I was wondering if someone who has a working system can measure the coil resistance across the low end and the high end and report. I want to compare my readings to a functional coil. I can't find proper specs on what I should be looking for. I also didn't' write notes, but I think I got 1.8 or so at the low end and 11k or so at the high. which seems to be in the right neighborhood to me, but what do I know. As an aside, does anyone know a good way to test the hall effect sensor system?
  4. in series, you say. Well, i will admit that I only had one plug hooked.. I have the Ducati style coil show here page 22 http://cvkustoms.com/PDF/Part_IV_Contactless_Ignition_Systems.pdf though that appears to be an add on. Ohm tests seemed to indicate it was the high end coil.. but I am new to this. I pulled it, and will take it in with me and hopefully find a tech who knows more than I do. That shouldn't be hard. i found another thread http://www.russianiron.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16184&hl=coilon here where someone used a honda coil.. looking into that. I also found this thread http://www.russianiron.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16113&hl=coil&st=0 which seems to speak directly to this type of ignition. So, grounding could be an issue as well. I will probably look at that next, while investigating honda coils.
  5. well, thank you all for the assistance. The Ebay parts needed the fine touch of a dremel, but seem to be workable. The Carbs are on. So, I have hit the next obstacle, which appears to be electrical. (This whole adventure began when I found I had lost spark. Electrical is my greatest weakness (among many) and I made no progress before winter - which led to a bike in the snow and cold... and eventually new jugs..) I think I have it down to the coil now. need to find me one of those next. I may be looking for further guidance, moral support, harassment, or what have you on that subject.. (should I start a new thread? or just bend this one..?)
  6. Thank you. I will look into that, if what I ordered from ebay doesn't work. On a marginally related note, I also noted when I went back to Holopaw site that they have overbore pistons. I may look into getting my old parts re machined. (I had missed that in my first attempt at research on my cylinder problems.. so I bought all new parts.. I did look at these. But, as a mechanic, I make a great waiter. I get the concept of these, but I don't know what kind of carb would be appropriate, or where I would mount it, and then I would have to solve the cabling issues that might arise out of that. I would be curious to read up on someones installation of this set up. I am also now reading up on the carb "super charger" systems. But that is all going to have to wait until I have made this thing run again. Maybe I will name it Lazerus.
  7. That is tempting, but, until I get this running again, I am not looking at upgrades. And, as it still requires an adapter, it would, by itself, leave me in the same place with two sets of carbs (K65s and mikuni). However I may have found a solution. http://www.ebay.com/itm/112043302824?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT it has slotted bolt spacing, and the throat is only 1 mm off. sent for them. will see in a few days.
  8. I will try to call him tomorrow. I had been to the Holopaw site, as they helped me several years back when my drive shaft coupling system failed. But the flange they list is 58mm (I think the actual spec on these is 57.5mm). And my new heads have bolts spaced at 54mm. Still, even if they don't have stock, they may know where to get them. Thanks.
  9. well, continuing the quest, I found this pdf on inertial superchargers. http://cvkustoms.com/PDF/19Superchargers.pdf page 11 clearly shows that they come with 54mm stud spacing when imported. this makes me think they are set for a different carb, probably pekar. I have yet to find anything with technical diagrams that confirms this.
  10. It has been a bit since I posted here. I have a mid 80s ural tourist, which spent a couple seasons lying fallow, and mostly unprotected. I am trying to bring it back to life. At least one piston was seized, so I tore open the jugs and found moisture had gotten in, and rust had formed. I decided to replace both jugs, pistons, heads, etc. I ended up on Ebay, and bought what was described as URAL 650cc Engine MEGAset (cylinders, heads, pistons, rings, gaskets...) NEW! It appears to be the same set that is sold at Russian Garage http://www.russiangarage.com/product_info.php?cPath=63&products_id=454 I have mikuni carbs but I find the bolt spacing for the carb intake is narrow by about 3-4 mm as compared to my existing adapter flange. The mikuni adapter flange appears to be 57mm or 2 1/4 inches. I have spent several hours looking for alternative flanges or perhaps adapters. Unfortunately, bolt spacing is often neglected in the descriptions. So, first, any thoughts on why they would have spaced these at approx 54mm? Is that a clean fit for one of the other carbs (K6# or Pekars)? Any suggestions for solutions? I have stopped by local motorsports places, can't find anything less than 60mm. And, of course, it has to match my carbs (or I have to buy new carbs to match the new adapters, which doesn't excite me right now.. ) I am going to order the adapters they list at Russian Garage, just on spec, because I need a couple other parts, and so it won't cost much to see. But I am hoping to have a plan B in place, should they not fit.
  • Create New...