Jump to content

peter hayden

Members
  • Posts

    218
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About peter hayden

  • Birthday 01/02/1961

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    manchester, mo, usa

peter hayden's Achievements

Russian Bike Nut

Russian Bike Nut (3/3)

  1. How about a picture. A description would be nice too.
  2. Well, I'll keep that in mind. I'll be using it only for fine turning. I have the brakes pretty good now but not quite as good as I'd like. Here's what I;ve done so far: I removed the rod. That let me move the levers independently of each other. Then I used the adjusters on the shoes to get them so each contacted the drum with the same amount of movement of the lever. Then I removed the levers from the splined shafts of the cams. I replaced the levers so that they were parallel and not beyond vertical when the shoes contacted the drum.. I did all this with the wheel and brake drum on the bench so I didn't have to keep removing and replacing the wheel onto the bike. And I had the brake cable removed. I replaced the rod and reinstalled the wheel. I tried it. The brakes are enormously better than they were. I'm fairly happy now. I take seriously your point in regard to moving the levers out of parallel. However I think that making the last fine adjustment, say 1/8 turn one way or the other, would not affect the parallelity (not a word ;-)) but would be useful in getting the shoes in absolute sync. I also think the stock rod is undersized and flexes when the brakes are applied. I'm open to what you or others have to say. BTW, West Marine did not have a suitable turnbuckle. All their turnbuckles were designed to work in tension. I did find one online at Wick's Aircraft and I expect to receive in a few days. I'll try it on a little used piece of road near my home. If it works as well as i hope, I'll post the part number.
  3. A quick update if anyone is interested. The brakes are much better now but still not as good as I'd like. I'm going to fiddle with it some more this afternoon. I have an old printout of something posted by Serious Black and Rich Maund. It includes the turnbuckle mentioned above by Kugelbake. In the article Serious Black thinks the external rod flexes under compression so the shoe operated by the rod never gets the pressure the shoe operated by the cable gets. I agree with that, but I think there are two other problems. First, unless you have x-ray vision, and I don't, it's impossible to tell if the two shoes make simultaneous contact with the drum and with equal pressure. The drum and backing plate obscure what's going on inside. The standard solution to this is to put chalk marks on both shoes, go for a ride, use the brakes and then disassemble to see how the chalk is rubbed off. It's like reading tea leaves. The smudge and smear patterns give only a vague picture of what's going on. Second, the rod, as I mentioned above, has a right-hand thread on both ends. Either way you turn the rod, the effective length stays the same since one end screws in while the other end screws out an equal amount. To change the rod length you have to unshackle one end from the lever and then turn the shackle - adjustments can only be made in one turn increments, as well. You really don't want to do this on the roadside unless there's no choice. I'm going to visit a marine store (West Marine) next week sometime To see if I can get one of these turnbuckles. I'll note the part number and cost to post here. I think it will go a long way to solve both problems. It will be so easy to make adjustments that trial and error will quickly find the right rod-length. Turn it one way, if it makes it better, try another turn that same way. If it makes it worse back out the last adjustment. No disassembly required. So the saga continues.
  4. Thanks. I tinkered with the brakes for a couple of hours yesterday and I plan to get back to it this afternoon. I kinda zeroed in on the issue and your suggestion fits perfectly with what I found. Here it is: Both ends of the rod have a right-hand thread. Turning the rod with, say, a vicegrips does not change its effective length. One turn out on one end results in one turn in on the other end. Why does this matter? To work effectively both brake shoes must make equal contact with the brake drum. The cable pulls one lever and turns one cam and moves one shoe. The rod moves the other lever, turns the other cam and moves the other shoe. If one shoe makes contact with the drum and the other doesn't, it's a one-shoe brake system. To get both to make simultaneous and equal contact with a stock rod would require a lot of trial and error. Presumably the shackle shown in the picture has one right-hand and one left-hand thread. Turning the shackle one way will increase its effective length, and the other way will reduce it. Nice! I learned a lot already and no doubt I'll learn more before I'm done. I paln to put something in the article section when I'm done. There's no need for the next guy to work in the dark like I did.
  5. Got some help from Becky and I think I know how to post pics now. Thanks Becky. Here's the missing pics.
  6. Okay. I fiddled with it a bit yesterday, but no cigar yet. Here's what the F2 article says in part 'Remove the outer levers from the splines while the shoes are still on the brakes. (the shoes will automatically pull the brake cams round to their lowest level)'. How do I remove the levers? I don't want to force anything and break it. BTW, the levers do travel beyond 90 degrees, so I know I have to do this. So, I've figured out that I have to remove the cable. Ken says, 'disconnect the link between the two shoes, then swing each cam to the extreme position (locking), then adjust the rod lenght to achieve even contact with both shoes.' How do I know when I have even contact? And, what's the best way to adjust the rod? Is it just to turn it with vicegrips? Seems a bit crude.
  7. Thank you Glenn. I printed it off and I'm headed to the garage.
  8. Crap. My pictures didn't load. I'll try to get them loaded asap - as soon as Ifigure out how.
  9. I'm trying to learn how to get my front drum brakes to work as well as the back brakes. The rear brakes are single-leading-shoe and are pretty easy to adjust. But the front brakes are twin-leading shoe and more complicated to adjust. The outside of the brake looks like this (ref picture front brake ext 003 sm). Note that the cable attaches to the lever at the front of brake plate. When the cable is pulled it moves the lever to the rear rotating a cam inside. The lever also pushes on an adjustable rod that moves a second lever at the back of the plate rotating a second cam inside. The inside of the brake looks like this (ref picture front brake int 001 sm). You can see the two cams and the brake shoes. For clarity I have painted the shoe moved by the front lever green (okay the green paint doesn't show up real well). And the shoe moved by the rear lever has been painted red. Both shoes have an adjuster that allows compensation for wear. There are two more pictures (front brake shoe red 001 sm & front brake shoe grn 001 sm). Fifty miles ago I removed the shoes and used emery paper to clean the friction surface. Now wear shows that the two shoes are not making even contact with the drum. The red (rear) shoe is not making as much contact as the green (front) shoe. I'm thinking that If I adjust the external rod so the rear lever is pushed back a little more it would make rear (red) shoe make more contact resulting in more bite. Is this about correct? But there has to be a more scientific way so they are equal than just trial and error. Thanks for your help.
  10. The news-media here in the USA is making an issue about Russian- vs Ukrainian-speaking people in Ukraine. Knowing absolutely nothing, I had always thought that the two languages were very similar and mutually understandable. That is, someone who speaks one can at least understand the other. It would be interesting to hear from someone in the Ukraine about that. How about it Mr. Vostok Motorcycles?
  11. I don't know what an 'inverted clutch lever' is? Perhaps a picture. But that's neither here nor there in regard to the real problem - why is it so hard to pull the lever. Since this is a resurrected bike, two things spring into my mind: 1. The cable is unraveling in the sheath, or there is crud inside the cable. Try removing the cable from the bike and see if the cable moves easily within the sheath. 2. You have the wrong clutch springs. Maybe a previous owner got some spring that look like the OEM springs but are much stiffer. I hope it's not this because fixing it is going to require disassembling the clutch - a big job. Maybe some other member can think of a different scenario. Good luck.
  12. While things are quiet in Kiev, not so much in the Crimea. This is very scarey!
  13. I believe Gene Langford sells clutch screws with Allen heads. The slotted screws are a b1tch. You'll see. You'll need the right screws, not just flat-head screws with the right pitch, because the angle of the head is not standard. I recommend Gene's screws.
  14. Don't get ahead of yourself. I think Rus is on to something when he suggested the clutch cable may be the problem. When you fiddled with the cable, did it change anything in regard to the slippage? Did it change anything in regard to the engagement/disengagement point for the clutch? Be sure that it's not a cable problem before you contemplate disassembling to get a look at the clutch. It's a big job. The short description of the tear down is: 1. Find a place where the kids and the wife are not going to disturb your tools and parts. Don't underestimate the difficulty involved with this. 2. Put the bike on the center stand. 3. Remove the rear wheel. 4. Remove the final drive. 5. Pull the drive shaft to the rear and remove it. 6. Pry the rubber doughnut off the transmission output shaft and remove it. 7. Remove the transmission. There are, if I remember correctly, six bolts one of which is front-to-back and is easy to overlook. You will have to remove the speedometer cable and the neutral switch wire as well. At this point you can remove the clutch for inspection. Bear mind, though, that to reinstall the clutch onto the flywheel you'll probably have to take the engine out of the frame so that gravity is not working against you as you put the plates together. The clutch plate clamps are merely proper size bolts with nuts which allow you to compress the springs,. You'll probably also want a small piece of angle iron with two holes in it so you can immobilize the flywheel. The alignment tool is nice, but you can also use an input shaft from a dead transmission - if you have one. If you decide to pull the engine from the frame, you have quite a bit more work. The major point is, make sure it's not simply a cable problem before you tackle all this. BTW, where are you located? I notice you haven't put much into your profile (can't blame you really). Perhaps, though, there's someone nearby that can help you with this.
  15. The two-tone paint makes it a 'Deco,' not a Retro. Mechanics are the same, though. I have a '99 Deco.
×
×
  • Create New...