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rooskyrider's Achievements

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  1. No mention in the article about overcoming traditional wankel shortcomings - high heat output, poor fuel efficiency, and minimal low rpm torque. doesn't sound to me like a good engine for a sidecar rig.
  2. 1999-2000 Excelsior Hendersons were put together with red Loctite on almost every fastener and it made maintenance a royal pain in the arse! Removing covers could SOMETIMES be accomplished with impact screwdrivers, but more often than not, the heads would strip. Using a microtorch to heat the fastener first made most fasteners come out without stripping. Why are you using red Loctite? Have you had bad experiences with blue Loctite?
  3. I'm designing a harness to pull my URAL when the gas cruch REALLY hits. May as well the yard art earn their keep!
  4. What's so funny?? You didn't know that ignition radiation from URAL exports is part of a dissident commie plot to emasculate the free world??? Where have YOU been????
  5. I wear a Schuberth flip-front during winter's two months. Can't wear anything but a skid lid in summer due to heat. Might dtart wearing an equestrian helmet in summer due to superior ventilation.
  6. Excellent advice Nate! I can't believe I overlooked matching combustion chamber volumes. But then I did my own heads without matching chamber volumes on my first engine build, a 375hp 327 fuelie back in 67, and that one would spin at six grand with a water glass sitting on the fuelie top without vibrating off or spilling a drop. But a later 140hp Corvair engine i built for a 62 Porsche Dietren Roadster I made from the front half of one and the back half of another ALWAYS ran rough. Never could get it right - maybe matching combustion chamber volumes was what IT needed! Guess I'll oil the walls and piston tops and combustion chambers,shove soft wax on top of the pistons at TDC, clamp the head on then pull the heads and melt the wax to get my volume and then work from there. That always worked for me with V-dubs and accounted for piston height and casting differences.
  7. I know it's akin to apples and oranges, but when I filled my Gold Wing with 0-30 synthetic, it felt like I had added a supercharger and power shifter!
  8. Holopaw Gene told me to make a new gasket out of a Bondo spreader. I plan to follow his advice.
  9. Rob, e-mail me at eustisgary@yahoo.com. I'll fax you a sketch of the rough idea.
  10. I've been using Amsoil and Mobil 1 since the seventies with never a part or engine failure. The only "synthetic" I ever used that caused a part failure was Arco Graphite. The graphite settled in passageway and blocked oil flow. Arco graphite did not use synthetic base stock anyway. I still use Amsoil and Mobil synthtics in my heavy equipment, lawn equipment, cars, trucks, motorcycles, boat motors, and even my Hunter ceiling fans. Just your opinion. Mobil 1 make a synthetic formulated for air cooled engines. It's called Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 The link is to a pdf file showing it has the highest phosphorus level of any of their products. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...oduct_Guide.pdf Here is another link concerning ZDDP. (zinc dithiophosphate) http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...Motor_Oils.aspx Reducing phosphate levels in motor oil isn't going to result in cam and tappet failure like many doom sayers predict. Dave
  11. Don't you mean a dynamic (spin) balancer for the crank?
  12. Anything's possible. I don't know how I could have stated it any clearer. Kinda reminds me of when I was a kid on camping trips and we'd play this game where one camper whispers something to the camper next to him, and it gets passed that way around the circle. Inevitably, by the time it gets back around to the original camper, the message bears no resemblance to the original message! Maybe you confused all the other guys who replied on you to help you with the topic and the question(s) raised in the first post? What do you think? Btw, in my opinion it's not sarcasm, it's just offensive and ignorant behavior.
  13. Thanks Rob! What I have in mind is cutting of the heel shifter and adding a simple U-channel extension with shifter pedal that will extend the heel shifter out about three inches and fold back over the shift arm when kick starting is needed. I would pin it at the end with a spiral roll pin with an interference fit in the U-channel, and the U-channel would be on the bottom. I figure it would almost NEVER need folding back over!
  14. You are correct. The only really effective way of balancing the crank is to disassemble it and spin it on a balancer to determine how much counterweight-weight needs to be added or where to place the weight to balance it. The rods need to be weighed on a grams scale and weight removed to make them equal as well. It would be a waste of your time to attempt to balance it on a static wheel balancer. Static balancing has nothing to do with a wheel balancer. It is the term for equalizing weights. You equalize the weights of the pistons WITH the rings you're going to use, already properly gapped. You equalize the weights of the rod big ends and then the small ends. All of this is done BEFORE dynamic balancing. Weights equivalent to the pistons, rods, and rings are added to the rod journals before dynamic (spin) balancing the crankshaft assembly (with clutch pressure plate and flywheel, and crankshaft balancer and pulleys in the csae of automotive engines). In the case of boxer engines, static balancing alone can have significant beneficial results. Even simply equalizing the weights of the piston assemblies can produce noticable results. I'm not going to disaamble the crank until necessity dictates it. When that time comes, I'll static balance the rods. Incidentally, I never balance a crank assembly without cleaning it up, removing flashing and rough edges, and shot peening the crank and rods for stress relief.
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