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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Southern Indiana
  • Interests
    Old Bikes, farming, Steam engines and the like. It it's old and mechanical, I love it.

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    1937 Zundapp K500 1938 Zundapp KS500 1965 BMW /2 1969 BMW US 1985 Dnepr MT-16
  • My Story
    Still here.

MTRRAD's Achievements

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  1. I'll ask Ken. My rims are welded heart shaped, I would bet they are rejected junk from misadjusted fixtures. I can cut and reweld them, but would rather have new. I have respoked wheels before, it's really quite easy. How do I get in touch with Ken, if he doesn't read this? Hey Ken!!
  2. I would go down to the local bike shop and get 5W synthetic.
  3. My rims are heart shaped where they were welded together. Is there an American supplier and or similar rim that can be laced to my MT-16 hubs? It's one of the lovable little quirks of the bike, but I can feel it at low speeds. At high speeds it just blends in with all the other good vibrations.
  4. I live in rural Southern Indiana, there is no place around here that will reline motorcycle brake shoes. The reason i was able to get this bike so cheap is that no one around here wanted anything to do with it. Is there an online seller of sticky shoes?
  5. I've got a lot of miles on fast sidecars. If I can get the wheels round she'll drive ok. She just has a little trouble stopping. Didn't someone market some real sticky brake shoes for these bikes?
  6. Are those Ural parts? I missed that. I have 5 bikes, none are urals. I'll have to check the ad.
  7. Dave, How fast will she go? I have a silly need to cruise at 65 MPH. To that end I am building a BMW/2 supersidecar bike. R100S engine in a 1965 /2 frame. She should do 85 easily, but it would be nice to drive to work in under an hour. Where is spell check on this thing?
  8. Hey guys, Oldtimer Garage sticks a 23% VAT tax onto his parts. We in the US are exempt, yet he still charges for it. There is a simple Polish exemption form for foriegn sales, but apperently he doesn't do this. Any ideas? Comments? He seems to be well-trusted here, and 23% won't break me, but it is irksome. Who else out there has good Dnepr MT-16 parts and is trustworthy?
  9. Intersted in the trans, cable and alternator, maybe more. Send me a price for the three with shipping. I can pay with paypal, or whatever you wish. Thanks, Mark Yeah, I'm a moron. I thought this was Dnepr parts. Never mind.
  10. I've had my MT-16 up to the axels in mud. I was a mile from the barn and did not want to walk back to get the tractor. I left it in gear and climbed off and pushed. It worked. But at the time I really wanted a locking differential. As far as reliability, as long as you treat it right, the locking differential should last as long as any other. I also need to figure out how to get 40 HP out of my motor. I've been wondering if anyone has increased the compression ratio.
  11. I love this site and all the opinions. If the differential did not have the casting for the locking lever I might not want one, but it does and I do. I really want it for crawling through the mud, but I could see using it to get out of a snow drift. I have about 100K miles in several BMW sidecar rigs. My favorite was my 1953 R51/3 with the Steib S500 sidecar. One wheel drive and not very good in snow or mud. It's not the utility so much, but the neatness of the locking differential. It's just cool. Now I have heard that the Chaingjing has a two speed tranny, four up and four down. Anyone know if that's true, and if they can be adapted to a MT-16. What I really want is a Zundapp K750 that will do 65 mph. I just don't have $35k.
  12. The bike runs smooth. By synchronized, do you mean the universals have to be 90 degrees out of phase? If so, I believe they are, but will double check. Since I have to take it apart again, to replace the broken stud, I am thinking of getting that lock up kit from Germany. What is it like? Is it worth it?
  13. Does anyone else have the problem of loosening bolts on the MT-16 differential? I've helicoiled the threads, replaced the bolts with high strength ones, and used 3M medium locktight. They still loosen, I have to tighten them every time I go out. I just snapped off one of the original studs, and now will take the whoe thing apart and helicoil and replace those two studs too. I am about to safety drill and wire them. Thanks.
  14. Ok, sounds good. I would guess that the grenade effect is from the crap russian bearings. These bearings are standard bearings and any good auto electric shop can replace them. i haven't done mine yet, but it's on my list. Now if I can get my differential bolts to stop breaking!
  15. Well, I found the valve tappet for the left side exhaust in the valve cover. The head bolts did not turn at 18 ft/pds. And there was a new broken stud on the differential. The studs I did not replace. The other, lower, stud looks and feels fine, but all 6 bolts/studs were loose. WTF? I think I was genetically unable to adjust my valves to .007". Not anymore. After that lost tappet, they are now at .003.
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