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Everything posted by whiterabbit

  1. Just got done doing an oil change/valve adj. on my MT16. Been running like a top and leaking oil for 4 yrs+!! (knocking on wood)
  2. Normal for no seals. I almost ask if the valve caps were there but I saw them in that pic. I'd look to buy a valve, upper spring retainer and wedges. I bought 8 wedges and half were trash/unuseable. I had to reuse the best of the old ones with the new ones I got. I also matched them up for best fit on the valve stem and upper spring retainer.
  3. I believe that's Kendall oil. Rumor/ myth claims crude oil from Pa. is the best. Mobil Delvac 15-40w is darn good too!
  4. I run the small 9ah because my bike is kick only, no E start. Yep, 1 kick and it lights right up even after sitting out in the rain all night! The wife's bike (old 900cc sportster) runs a Tech Cycle gear reduction starter and it only has a 180cca battery. Those small gear reduction starters are sweet.
  5. I run an AGM Deka ETX9 (9ah 120cca) but a ETX12 (12ah 180cca) or a ETX14 (14ah 220cca) would fit in there too. They are all 5 7/8"L by 3 7/16"W but 4 3/16", 5 1/8", 5 3/4"Tall. If I remember right the tallest batt. that I could fit would be 6" tall. Good price and free shipping= http://www.batterymart.com/c-big-crank-batteries.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwxYGuBRCtoqjkrIPDqDwSJAAnd-rC6GOtfBa7kiv97KChsSs5enL2YT8BFeABTZTr_DKiwhoCuAPw_wcB They're sold in Azone and other places under their brand name too but cost more. I get mine at Lowe's! Much cheaper plus I get a discount. I have a MT16
  6. Mine had those and I ground them off while deburring the casting, probably just a factory mark in the mold or masters.
  7. Wooo Hoooo!! Congrats!! Patience and determination pays off!!
  8. I have a MT16 and replaced my fuse block. I used 10A in 3 positions and 15A in the lighting position. I tried to use a 10A in the lighting circuit but it popped so I bumped up to 15amp, I guess the headlight pulled a lil' too much juice for the 10A to handle. I have a 20A coming off the battery +.
  9. Secondary is 5000000 ohm? (5mega ohm) Way too high, sounds like an open winding in the coil. Normal points coils are usually in the 11-14K range on the secondary, I'm sure Russian coils are off that mark a little bit but yours is WAAAAAY off! Oh, get some NGK 5K caps for the bike, they'll help reduce the arcing on the points, at least they did on my old Guzzi. Bike will still run with different ohm cap/wires.
  10. Lots of homemade hooch made during Desert Storm but no drinking of brake fluid here! The mess Sgt. wondered where all his canned fruit kept going! hehehee. Bad shine can have battery acid and radiator fluid in it, if I don't know the source I don't drink it. I know a lil' bit about shine and home made wine. (born n raised in the mountains of east Tn.)
  11. That sliding kill switch provides power to the ignition and any faults in it will shut the bike down or cause low voltage. I had to disassemble mine and clean and repair it. There is a brass contact plate, spring with insulator and a small steel ball in there. The insulator was missing in mine and current went through the spring and ball into the steel detent plate/switch housing killing the bike. I had to replace the springs and insulators in mine. If the condenser was bad it'd run like crap and yes your points would arc and burn but alot of times it isn't the condenser, just dirty points. I use a lil' points file on them. The points on my other bikes easily have 30,000+ miles on them. Every yr. I take a diamond nail file (the kind women use) to them and clean them up. If you have that Russian coil that looks like a toilet paper tube wrapped in wire and cloth and made in Ivan's garage I'd suspect it. I get a big fat spark from a Harley coil but ANY dual outlet points coil from a bike would be an upgrade. Early Honda twins, Yamaha, Harley, anything! Are you getting at least 12V measured at the coil? Stupid question but are you getting a GOOD fuel flow? Fuel flow not keeping up with demand and sucking the carbs dry after 10 seconds running? Just my wild guesses. :beer!:
  12. That used to tick me off when someone would say they're bringing apple or peach cobbler and show up with crumble! I could eat cobbler non stop! We used to make cobbler while camping up in the Smokey Mountains and would wash it down with some good local shine. Ahhh good times!
  13. LOL! That's the truth! I keep way too much old bike, truck and Rover bits n pieces. My scrap "pile" is the shelving running down the length of my shop and piled up next to it too. A few yr's back I built a complete bike outt'a that "junk"! No kidding, built a 1970-76 Harley Sportster bobber.
  14. It does sound like a plugged air filter or maybe bad float level. If you have that mess that's called the stock air filter with the sock wrapped around it, it could be plugged up. I have the K68's with a high flow filter element in the stock air box and it has alot of get up n go past the 3/4 throttle.
  15. Split rings? When I did my 2 into 1 exhaust on my '94 MT16 the J pipes had a bulge about 3/4 inch from the head end. I slipped the exhaust nut UP the pipe to the bulge which fit into the nut then put the asbestos ring on the end and slipped it into the head, tightened nut and done. Used plenty of anti seize! The end that went into the big funky cross over got the nut and asbestos ring, greased up and tightened. Same with the muffler's side "tit". The muffler went into the scrap pile, running something different on my bike.
  16. The transmissions with reverse have a longer clutch release rod because the transmission is longer. I guess you could shorten the new rod and file a new square end on it to match the old rod. (The end that goes into the clutch) If your old rod is ok, just replace the little rubber seal and reuse the old rod? I'm no expert but the bearing and bits on the end should be the only things that wear out. Hope I helped. Mike
  17. The problem is alot of them are not real machinists. The only thing they know how to do is bore out a small block Chevy. Poorly at that!
  18. Sound like you have a short to ground in the switch or after it. You eliminated the lighting circuit already. http://cvkustoms.com/PDF/Russian_Headlight_Cavity_Part_II_M-72.pdf
  19. The oil pressure sensor took a krap on the MT16. Anyone know of a pressure sensor from the parts store or from another vehicle that'll swap in? Thanks all, Mike
  20. Lobofuego, You know we yanks can't make a cup of tea worth a damn, can't find any good tea here since that day we tossed it into the harbor! I did have a big ol' Mason Jar of ice cold sweet tea though. Mike
  21. I haven't found jets listed for the Pekar K68. I think you can get most of the adj you need with just raising the needle a bit. I have a free flowing exhaust and custom foam air filter and it doesn't seem to be running lean on my bike. My needle is in the middle notch (3rd down) with the lil' washer/spacer under the clip and close to 1 1/2 turns out on the idle mix screw. I couldn't get mine to run with 12v on the battery, voltage too low. I have a type 3 ignition with a Harley coil.
  22. Thanks! Had to reset the lash again. I guess the new pushrod's tips didn't fit correctly into the adjusters on the rocker arms and created some slop when they wore in. Good to go now. Thanks, Mike
  23. Just made a lil' trip around the neighborhood. So far so good! Just reset the valve lash and tweeked the carbs a bit. 20km loop, will venture further out later.
  24. Try here for the manuals and tons of info on his site= http://cvkustoms.com/Technical/Motorcycle_Manuals.html Check out old timergarage.eu, ural-zentral, moto-boxer and Ken(member on this site)
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