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  1. That's not bad on the prices. What about afterwards, are the safety inspections and all a problem for older bikes? Would it be cheaper to ship mine over, if I still have by then?
  2. When my oldest son told us that he and family were moving to Germany this summer, we were bummed because that meant at least a once a year visit. I was starting to feel sad and depressed because we wouldn't be able to see the grandkids grow up. So the other day we were watching some videos about Germany and the region they were moving to, it struck us how beautiful it was and then the epiphany hit, why don't we move there. In about 3 years we figured that's when we would move over, we will be retired and hopefully all of our bills will be paid by then. So my question is how strong of a presence are Urals in Germany? I figure we would get a car and a bike. Would it be wise to buy a BMW or some other bike with a sidecar rig. Anyone with experiences to share?
  3. Forgot to add that it's Decepticon name is "Putt Fire" 7th cousin twice removed from Jetfire.
  4. I had my students the other day make me up a decal that gives a possible explanation as to why the "Red Witch" seems to have a mind of her own.
  5. It would only act up after sitting for awhile and I thought it was bad gas.
  6. Well, I've been having trouble with the right side carburetor. Every now and then, especially after it sits for a long time, the float needle would stick open and drain out gas. In the past I would just shoot some air in the vents and that would clear it up. The other day I tried to run the Red Witch and it was gagging and putt putting down the street. Took it back home and parked it till I could get to the problem. Yesterday I took the carb off and opened up the float chamber and pulled out the needle. Stuck to the needle was a small piece of something, a piece of cloth or sponge I think. Took it off cleaned and put everything back. She started almost immediately and the idle/acceleration is even. So today I'm going to take it on the road and see what happens. The bad part about this is that the carbs were brand new, never opened by me and put on as is. The object was bigger that the filter elements so it had to have been in there in the beginning. So next time (I hope not) if I get new carbs I will open them up and clean them out before putting them on.
  7. Kit building is fun, however building a true Hawken copy requires skill and patience. Primarily it's the tang section with the long tongue. Bought a boogered up Kit Carson Hawken from a guy who didn't know what he was doing, the stock was hope less after that and will have to get a new one. It's still sitting in the parts box waiting for the stock. Build a flintlock Kentucky/Tennessee rifle or a trade musket, which you can have a lot of fun with making it "period" with tacks and inlays, if you mess it up it will still look period.
  8. Thanks, I see that the Traditions Hawken is very much a clone of the Thompson Center Hawken (won't be surprised if they were made from the same dies. Lyman is an excelent choice for a pains style rifle I recommend it for a "ready made". Pedersoli is a good maker I had a few of their rifles/pistols.
  9. I'm dying to know brand of "Hawken" rifle do you have? How about a picture? Back in the days of 75 (1975) I bought my first smokepole. It was a Thompson center a nice shooter but didn't really look right. Soon after I joined a club and started going to shoots and rendezvous. I had some of the greatest experiences and enjoyment from shooting and getting involved in the "frontier life", as best that could be interpreted for the 20th century. During the next ten years I must have had over a couple of dozen muskets, rifles and pistols I worked at a gun shop part time and had an "in" for obtaining nice pieces. Now I only have two left, a Zouave and a hand made Hawken that I bought in 1976 with my reenlistment bonus. It cost me $500.00 at the time. It's a heavy bugger weights in at about 11 pounds. I tell you what it's a tack driver because of it's weight makes it steadier to hold. I call it Lazarus because it had been severely damaged once and a gunsmith friend had lovingly fixed it. The original maker had made some mistakes in detail to what a real Hawken was and modified so that if you put it up against a real one you couldn't tell them apart. I've always used BP still have about 4 pounds of the stuff bought before the regs tighten up. Here in the Northwest there aren't as many muzzleloading clubs/mountain men rendezvous and so on as there were 20 years ago. Still Civil War stuff but not into the regimentation and the nit picking of kits and all. I've been thinking of making a rack on the left side of the hack to carry Lazarus (my Hawken) and take to some of the remaining rendezvous this summer. Still have my buckskin leggings and period shirts, although they are a little tight. Cabelas is a good place to get the general stuff for muzzleloading caps, powder. If you want some authentic stuff go to Track of the Wolf and even Dixie gun works for equipment. Once you get the hang of shooting you'll love it more. You were very wise to have checked the bore for a load, many accidents have happened because someone left a load in the barrel.
  10. Are you sure you don't live in Oregon? Sounds like it.
  11. Babelfish has this for "rat" - крыса don't ask me how it's pronounced. I always had a fascination for Russian airplanes and the one that comes to mind that would go hand in hand with a Ural would be a Polikarpov I-16 which the Spanish during the civil war called the "Rata" If you don't know what it is here is a link. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polikarpov_I-16
  12. I want to thank Ken Ulrich for sending out a new regulator to me so quickly, ordered it Monday and it came yesterday. I now have turn signals, a bright headlight and more power. Now that the rains have started here again I needed those lights to be working. Now I can concetrate on putting goodies on like LED's and such, YEA!
  13. I'll have to try that next time.
  14. I can suggest applying heat to the nut (usually on just one flat of the nut) Just do it until it starts to glow. Move the torch away and apply PB blaster to it, keep it away from the open flame, then try to loosen it. This usually works for most stubborn nuts. Make sure you have a firm grip because the nut can go soft on you and round out the flats. If there is still rubber around the area or hydraulic fluid be extremely careful around the flame, have a clean rag to throw over the nut if you get a flame.
  15. Thanks Dub Next question is my G424 has three terminal posts, looking from the back I have the two wires to the middle post and the single wire to the post on the right, did I get it right?
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