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    looking for a retro solo

englishdealhunter's Achievements

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  1. Hi Guys - started her up after some months and the right cylinder is hot, very hot, around 230 degrees c/w left at around 150. I can't get rid of this symptom. I've replaced points, checked plugs (NGK 6's) and points gap, checked advance / retard mechanism, fitted new carb gaskets, checked fuel getting to carbs, cleaned carbs, checked compression at around 75 psi on both sides, checked valve clearances. I believe the right cylinder is generating more power, as when you take off the plug caps when running, the right cylinder is more responsive. I'm thinking of; replacing the distributor cap and rotor arm, cleaning the carb again on left side, checking exact timing for both sides with distance of piston from TDC, but am running out of ideas. Can anyone help??? Thanks Greg
  2. Hi, i've had a K750 for years and now want an older ww2 bike. Does anyone know anyone in east europe who could source one?
  3. Hi Guys - I have a k750 with what appears to be the reverse gear box fitted. The reverse gear lever is like the one here http://www.oldtimergarage.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1328 The shaft that it is bolted to appears at some time to have had splines but these have worn away and the lever does not appear to have any either. Should they both be splined? The result is that the lever does not turn the shaft to select reverse. Even when the lever is removed, and I put the nut on the shaft and try to move it with a spanner, it appears to be seized. I've tried rocking the bike, engine off and on, always in neutral and can't move the shaft. I don't want to take the whole gearbox apart - any ideas???.
  4. Now that I know the problem is electrical, I have removed the direct wire from the battery to the coil and rewired as before with the ignition switch. Checked all terminals and rewired any suspect connections – started her and have the same problem, erratic running and cuts out after 30 seconds to a minute. Thinking about it, I thought the only area of concern is the generator/regulator, so I removed the wire from the ignition switch to the generator. Obviously the ignition light would not work but it would confirm that the switch and wiring to the coil was OK – that works fine, engine starts and runs smoothly. So the problem must be generator/regulator related. I’ve checked the wiring as best I can, as some is under the tank and it appears to be correct, as per the manual. The generator terminals are wired correctly and the regulator too. I know the generator runs like a motor when off the engine and that the system is charging, and I know the regulator contacts move to regulate the voltage. ???????????????????????
  5. I’ve run a few test and there is a problem with the wiring to the coil. If I run a wire from the battery straight to the coil and remove the ignition wire and the horn wire from the coil, everything runs fine and she ticks over smoothly, bit of a backfire on one side but I’m sure that’s carb settings. If I remove the hard wire and go back to the normal wiring, she starts but cuts out after 30 seconds and runs erratically. If I remove the horn wire, same thing If I substitute a wire alongside the ignition wire from switch to coil, same thing. The only changes I’ve made to the electrics are; to recondition the generator, put a new horn in, mess about with the regulator points gaps and put an ammeter in line with the battery. So I’ve just put in a wire and a switch, to the coil to test the rest of the bike, but apart from stripping everything back and examining all the wiring I can’t think what it can be? What’s confusing me is that there must be current to the coil to start the bike. So what in the electrics could suddenly vary that and cause the erratic running and cutting out?
  6. Hi, the bike starts Ok, it idles ok though has a misfire occasionaly, however it cuts out completely quite often, evry few minutes. This is obviously dangerous and I've tried the following. Initially I checked the fuel and bought a new fuel tap as the previous was leaking anyway - no change. The points are clean and new and set properly. The plugs are new and are set properly. I have set the mixture on the carbs and that is correct and the plugs are the right colur. I have checked the coil resistance on the primary and secondary windings and it is Ok. Having studied the problem, it appears that the ignition light goes off when the engine cuts out. This is difficult to determine as the light is off anyway, as the engine is charging, but after the engine cuts out, the light takes a few seconds to come on. Subsequently it starts and the process repeats itself. I have checked all connections and thought initially this was an ignition switch problem, but that is ok too. Could this be a condenser or coil problem?
  7. http://www.oldtimergarage.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26_37_50&products_id=923 Is this the part I need?
  8. Hi, thanks for this. I assume i just remove the cylinders and replace the seal and that's it?
  9. Hi Guys I have been running the bike whilst making some improvements and have finally got around to this problem. It appears that the oil is seeping out from the cylinders themselves. This is not a leak fro the generator (that's cured) and not from the valve covers (that's cured). It is not from the seal between the head and cylinder nor from the seal between the cylinder and engine block - it appears to be coming for the cylinder on both sides of the motor. I haven't looked at the structure, but do the valve stem go through the cylinders and could this be the problem? Thanks
  10. Hi Guys, thanks very much for your replies. I have removed the generator and it runs as a 'motor' though poorly. I then stripped it and cleaned everything, reassembled it and it 'motors' very well now. I have taken the bike out for an hour with no problem. Next time it is in the 'shed' for improvements, I will check the voltages as suggested.
  11. Hi - Only had the bike a few months and love it and am constantly renovating it. The problem I can't understand is that the battery goes flat after 30 minutes riding. I installed an ammeter to check charging and the charging light goes out and the ammeter indicates charging at medium revs, much higher than idle. I installed a new battery, as I have to carry a spare, but still the same. Checked to see if there is a leak to earth with the ignition on. Ammeter indicates 4 amps negative when ignition is on - is this normal? Checked coil using ohm meter and windings seem fine. No other leaks to earth are evident. Checked all contacts on regulator (PP302) and they seem fine. Not sure where to go from here?
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