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Everything posted by RussN

  1. With carb interiors like that, you can bet the gas jets are also plugged and require opening. Also make sure the fuel tank, shut-off valve and associated filter screen are totally clean and clear. And in the correct RUN position. (How do I know that one?...) And I've had visible spark, but a bad coil reducing the spark below ignition level. Replacing the coil brought the engine back to life. On three different Urals since I began riding them in 1998! Food(s) for thought. RussN
  2. Suspect some other problem preventing the engine from starting. The cylinders have compression. Fuel, Air, spark. The three essentials. RussN
  3. RussN

    Need Help

    Note on poorly running Ural engines: Both my son and I experienced Ural engine running issues. They acted like the low speed carb jets were (partially?) clogged. We each put half a can of SeaFoam (a fuel additive/solvent for engines) in each of our three Urals, and then ran them hard. https://www.amazon.com/Foam-Motor-Treatment-Part-B1SF16/dp/B01FSZ1AIC/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3SWU37VL6O6NH&keywords=seafoam+fuel+additive&qid=1663254448&sprefix=Seafoam%2Caps%2C324&sr=8-8 Within 20 miles the jets cleared and the engines are again running at full power with smooth throttle response. I can recommend SeaFoam as a useful solution to the carburetor cleaning problems we experienced. RussN
  4. HAHAHA Becky! ((-; "L" lalalala. RussN
  5. Get a compression tester such as this one on Amazon; https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-HW0130-Cylinder-Compression-Automotive/dp/B00SKSAB8U/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2DQKTAV8PS8QL&keywords=compression+tester&qid=1661616924&sprefix=compression+tester%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0RjBGMTNPSzlGR1cmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3NjA2NDkzVFkwUzFMR1lQNUVSJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMzE0NTAzU1lQV0c0S0NRWkpJJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Inexpensive and instantly useful. RussN
  6. Perform a compression check with a pressure-testing gauge in the spark pug hole. Compare both sides. But you may have already stopped the leak by annealing the gaskets, as you noted. Hope so. RussN
  7. I would suspect a leaking valve, as Vance suggested. Why? Because those are the primary areas you changed! Always look back to the last items "messed with". That approach has helped me many times. RussN
  8. Congratulations, Jim! You have followed a long road getting your bike legally running, and now you get to enjoy the results. Thanks for letting us know of your success. Ride Safe, and enjoy every day. RussN
  9. What Dowey said. I've had to make the same adjustment on one of my older 650cc Urals. This adjustment was described in the operating manual. If your manual does not describe the procedure, you can probably find that info from the IMZ-Ural.com website. It is not a difficult process. I suspect the OP's use of the phrase "the drive slipped" led Vance's thinking away from the real problem: The transmission occasionally SLIPS OUT of 3rd gear. Not that it is "slipping" while in gear. So locate that adjustment description and fix it. It's not a big deal to do if I could succeed at it. RussN
  10. I am watching with interest as Irbit Motor Works of America (IMWA) works hard to move motorcycle production from Irbit, RU, to Kazakhstan, due to world political challenges. IMWA's latest video interview with CEO Ilya Khait brings us up to date. Despite the huge challenges, I am beginning to believe the Ural Species will survive. 'Sure hope so, despite the expected higher prices. RussN
  11. Also inspect to see if there is evidence of oil in the bell housing. Urals have dry clutches like cars, so any oil is cause for slipping. However, I trust Vance's evaluation. But first make sure the clutch does not require adjustment. The clutch hand lever will likely be your first telltale for that. RussN
  12. Welcome back Russian Iron! I was beginning to think The End was here. Keep it going. RussN
  13. Break? I'm retired (happily), snowed in this week, and looking forward to a far better 2022 than this year has been. We'll all keep smiling. RussN
  14. Cone filters might also require changing the jet size in the carbs due to the leaner mixture that might result. Happy Holidays, and stay safe! RussN
  15. You can always mount a bicycle speedometer on your Dnepr. That will likely be more accurate that the stock speedos, and meet the authorities' rules. RussN
  16. It is a Ural Wolf. First imported into the USA in 2003. Production began earlier for Russian release. I own one of the first ones to hit the USA. RussN
  17. I have the stock rear wheel on my 2003 Wolf. Works fine. I think drive shaft clearance could be an issue. My Wolf measures ~9mm (~ 0.350") between the shaft and the stock tire sidewall, when sitting still. Please post your results for the rest of us rare Wolf Pilots. RussN
  18. Your location is vital to getting a useful answer to your quest. Hope you find one. RussN
  19. Restore the original heads. They are already removed from an engine and easy to access, and you've identified many issues with the heads presently on your bike. You will thank yourself... My son's '98 Ural had problems with crappy heads: poor running, inconsistent valve adjustments, excess heat and more. He completely replaced them with new Ural head assemblies and his bike has run consistently with balanced increased power, valve adjustments holding for 10K+ kms, and now more than 102,000 kms on the dial. Still running strong. RussN
  20. Luca: Good to hear you have been productive and entertained. Same here. In the past 2 years I finished building a 1/8 size steam locomotive, rebuilt the worn valve gear on my other locomotive, and completed the restoration of a 60-year-old steam boat. Pandemic children, you might say. As our worlds safely open back up (slowly) I am able to operate them all, and enjoy riding my Russian Iron too. And I always look forward to seeing your restoration work. RussN
  21. I've not read any activity here in several days. Is everyone really out riding, or is my computer playing tricks on me?? I've been riding my Retro Rig with great pleasure. 'Hoping everyone is staying safe and healthy, RussN
  22. My experience with Urals and Mikuni carbs suggests the popping sounds are the result of air leaks in the compliance fitting between the carb and the cylinder head. Those parts require replacement over time, as they harden and crack. If you don't know how old those compliance fittings are, expect to replace them with new ones, at least as a prophylactic measure. That could make your experience much easier and enjoyable with these machines. I always ride with spares compliance fittings sealed in plastic bags, in my "spares kit." I've only ever needed them when I didn't have them with me. Go figure... RussN
  23. Trinidad: Scott E offers sage advice. I will add: Acquire an electrical multimeter and learn how to use the "Ohm Meter" portion to trace wiring. In my Electrical Engineering career that tool has been one of the most useful for troubleshooting electronics. This will allow you do "unravel" the wire harness without physically tracing the wires, and then mark those connected wire ends for later use. And considering that I have never found coherent use of wire colors in Russian wire harnesses and diagrams on 4 different motorcycles, this is important to do. Because you do not know the history of work on your motorcycle, expect it to not follow existing wiring diagrams. DO expect to think about each circuit, trace wires, and connect them properly to activate each individual item such as a brake light. DO expect to study and understand each individual simple circuit your bike has. DO expect to spend time learning what wires the ignition switch assembly connects in each switch position. 'Sounds like a lot of work, but welcome to old machines. If you give yourself this level of knowledge, riding your machine and keeping it running on the road will become a pleasure and not a hassle. Been there and still do that. RussN
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