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Everything posted by RussN

  1. Welcome back Russian Iron! I was beginning to think The End was here. Keep it going. RussN
  2. Break? I'm retired (happily), snowed in this week, and looking forward to a far better 2022 than this year has been. We'll all keep smiling. RussN
  3. Cone filters might also require changing the jet size in the carbs due to the leaner mixture that might result. Happy Holidays, and stay safe! RussN
  4. You can always mount a bicycle speedometer on your Dnepr. That will likely be more accurate that the stock speedos, and meet the authorities' rules. RussN
  5. It is a Ural Wolf. First imported into the USA in 2003. Production began earlier for Russian release. I own one of the first ones to hit the USA. RussN
  6. I have the stock rear wheel on my 2003 Wolf. Works fine. I think drive shaft clearance could be an issue. My Wolf measures ~9mm (~ 0.350") between the shaft and the stock tire sidewall, when sitting still. Please post your results for the rest of us rare Wolf Pilots. RussN
  7. Your location is vital to getting a useful answer to your quest. Hope you find one. RussN
  8. Restore the original heads. They are already removed from an engine and easy to access, and you've identified many issues with the heads presently on your bike. You will thank yourself... My son's '98 Ural had problems with crappy heads: poor running, inconsistent valve adjustments, excess heat and more. He completely replaced them with new Ural head assemblies and his bike has run consistently with balanced increased power, valve adjustments holding for 10K+ kms, and now more than 102,000 kms on the dial. Still running strong. RussN
  9. Luca: Good to hear you have been productive and entertained. Same here. In the past 2 years I finished building a 1/8 size steam locomotive, rebuilt the worn valve gear on my other locomotive, and completed the restoration of a 60-year-old steam boat. Pandemic children, you might say. As our worlds safely open back up (slowly) I am able to operate them all, and enjoy riding my Russian Iron too. And I always look forward to seeing your restoration work. RussN
  10. I've not read any activity here in several days. Is everyone really out riding, or is my computer playing tricks on me?? I've been riding my Retro Rig with great pleasure. 'Hoping everyone is staying safe and healthy, RussN
  11. My experience with Urals and Mikuni carbs suggests the popping sounds are the result of air leaks in the compliance fitting between the carb and the cylinder head. Those parts require replacement over time, as they harden and crack. If you don't know how old those compliance fittings are, expect to replace them with new ones, at least as a prophylactic measure. That could make your experience much easier and enjoyable with these machines. I always ride with spares compliance fittings sealed in plastic bags, in my "spares kit." I've only ever needed them when I didn't have them with me. Go figure... RussN
  12. Trinidad: Scott E offers sage advice. I will add: Acquire an electrical multimeter and learn how to use the "Ohm Meter" portion to trace wiring. In my Electrical Engineering career that tool has been one of the most useful for troubleshooting electronics. This will allow you do "unravel" the wire harness without physically tracing the wires, and then mark those connected wire ends for later use. And considering that I have never found coherent use of wire colors in Russian wire harnesses and diagrams on 4 different motorcycles, this is important to do. Because you do not know the history of work on your motorcycle, expect it to not follow existing wiring diagrams. DO expect to think about each circuit, trace wires, and connect them properly to activate each individual item such as a brake light. DO expect to study and understand each individual simple circuit your bike has. DO expect to spend time learning what wires the ignition switch assembly connects in each switch position. 'Sounds like a lot of work, but welcome to old machines. If you give yourself this level of knowledge, riding your machine and keeping it running on the road will become a pleasure and not a hassle. Been there and still do that. RussN
  13. Terry's dealer contact info is: http://www.crawfordsales.info You can also look up your nearest Ural dealer from the main Ural web site. As mentioned already, knowing your location can help us help you. RussN
  14. Way to go, NoJoe! A little oil and TLC... That speedo might now read better/more accurate than when we purchased that new Ural in 1998! So pleased you continue to take care of it. Enjoy The Rides, RussN
  15. Nice to have a project while getting snowed in! We look forward to hearing of your repair success! Down here in the Columbia River Gorge (Washington/Oregon border) we are fully snowed in with the main roads/freeways closed and several more feet of snow forecast! I don't think I could even get our Retro out of the garage until mid next week! It will be interesting to see how much snow you get in Seattle! Portland is snowed/iced in too, with more on the way. Y'all stay safe! RussN
  16. NoJoe: Have your talented Wife machine a new brass bearing for the speedometer, assuming there is such a thing in the speedo housing. Yes, I'm serious... 😁 RussN
  17. Progress! Several other things that can cause front wheel wobble: Slight toe-in of the sidecar helps balance the rig handling. Yes, the rear tire will scuff and wear a bit that way, but so be it. Also, a front tire with flat tread profile will definitely induce wobble. So make sure the tread is nicely rounded. Keep posting! RussN
  18. NorthernDuck: The stock speedometers on our bikes use a spring and magnet(?) inside the display to move the needle. Accuracy depends on that spring setup. The odometer is gear driven, and potentially accurate based on those gears. RussN
  19. NDuck: Yes, setting in the shoes to the drum surfaces takes some time. But there are quicker ways to do it: For my various Urals I acquired narrow rolls of sanpaper strips with light adhesive backing, and pressed them onto the cleaned drum surface. Then I turned the wheel by hand while sanding the shoe surfaces in position in the drum. That process greatly decreased the setting-in time. I also lightly beveled the leading and trailing edges of the shoes (with a file), which eliminated vibrations when applying the brakes. I can lock up the wheels using the brakes, if required. RussN
  20. When your engine stops (seized?) can it still be cranked over with the start lever? If yes, it is not seized. I am wondering if it really heats up and seizes, or stops from other causes as discussed above. Happy New Year, all. RussN
  21. dmb: Do you want a bike that runs well, or looks "original?" Personally I like a running bike. The Ride is always the best part. RussN
  22. Vance: So sorry to learn of Becky's continuing medical issues. She is incredibly fortunate to be with you! RussN
  23. When testing the engine you should consider having fans blowing lots of cooling air over the cylinders. This is the normal testing set up at the Ural factory in Irbit, RU. I do not know what was done at the Dnepr factory in Kiev. Then perform the suggested tests and measurements, cold and hot. Food for thought. RussN
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