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RussN

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About RussN

  • Rank
    Russian Bike Nut

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern Oregon, USA
  • Interests
    Steam machines, Urals, all Motorcycles, Aviation, Good People, Red Wines, Life, and the ability to enjoy them all.

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    1998 BC Classic Rig, well upgraded; 2003 Wolf, well ridden; 2008 Retro Rig, well... you know...
  • My Story
    Live in Mount Hood, Oregon, USA; Helped start USA Ural importer IMWA; Been to the Irbit Ural Factory twice, the second time with my 2 teenaged sons. It was a life-changing adventure. Am now happily retired (Aug. 2012)

Recent Profile Visitors

346 profile views
  1. My experience with Urals and Mikuni carbs suggests the popping sounds are the result of air leaks in the compliance fitting between the carb and the cylinder head. Those parts require replacement over time, as they harden and crack. If you don't know how old those compliance fittings are, expect to replace them with new ones, at least as a prophylactic measure. That could make your experience much easier and enjoyable with these machines. I always ride with spares compliance fittings sealed in plastic bags, in my "spares kit." I've only ever needed them when I didn't have them wit
  2. Trinidad: Scott E offers sage advice. I will add: Acquire an electrical multimeter and learn how to use the "Ohm Meter" portion to trace wiring. In my Electrical Engineering career that tool has been one of the most useful for troubleshooting electronics. This will allow you do "unravel" the wire harness without physically tracing the wires, and then mark those connected wire ends for later use. And considering that I have never found coherent use of wire colors in Russian wire harnesses and diagrams on 4 different motorcycles, this is important to do. Because you do not
  3. Terry's dealer contact info is: http://www.crawfordsales.info You can also look up your nearest Ural dealer from the main Ural web site. As mentioned already, knowing your location can help us help you. RussN
  4. Way to go, NoJoe! A little oil and TLC... That speedo might now read better/more accurate than when we purchased that new Ural in 1998! So pleased you continue to take care of it. Enjoy The Rides, RussN
  5. Nice to have a project while getting snowed in! We look forward to hearing of your repair success! Down here in the Columbia River Gorge (Washington/Oregon border) we are fully snowed in with the main roads/freeways closed and several more feet of snow forecast! I don't think I could even get our Retro out of the garage until mid next week! It will be interesting to see how much snow you get in Seattle! Portland is snowed/iced in too, with more on the way. Y'all stay safe! RussN
  6. NoJoe: Have your talented Wife machine a new brass bearing for the speedometer, assuming there is such a thing in the speedo housing. Yes, I'm serious... 😁 RussN
  7. Progress! Several other things that can cause front wheel wobble: Slight toe-in of the sidecar helps balance the rig handling. Yes, the rear tire will scuff and wear a bit that way, but so be it. Also, a front tire with flat tread profile will definitely induce wobble. So make sure the tread is nicely rounded. Keep posting! RussN
  8. NorthernDuck: The stock speedometers on our bikes use a spring and magnet(?) inside the display to move the needle. Accuracy depends on that spring setup. The odometer is gear driven, and potentially accurate based on those gears. RussN
  9. NDuck: Yes, setting in the shoes to the drum surfaces takes some time. But there are quicker ways to do it: For my various Urals I acquired narrow rolls of sanpaper strips with light adhesive backing, and pressed them onto the cleaned drum surface. Then I turned the wheel by hand while sanding the shoe surfaces in position in the drum. That process greatly decreased the setting-in time. I also lightly beveled the leading and trailing edges of the shoes (with a file), which eliminated vibrations when applying the brakes. I can lock up the wheels using the brakes, if required.
  10. When your engine stops (seized?) can it still be cranked over with the start lever? If yes, it is not seized. I am wondering if it really heats up and seizes, or stops from other causes as discussed above. Happy New Year, all. RussN
  11. dmb: Do you want a bike that runs well, or looks "original?" Personally I like a running bike. The Ride is always the best part. RussN
  12. Vance: So sorry to learn of Becky's continuing medical issues. She is incredibly fortunate to be with you! RussN
  13. When testing the engine you should consider having fans blowing lots of cooling air over the cylinders. This is the normal testing set up at the Ural factory in Irbit, RU. I do not know what was done at the Dnepr factory in Kiev. Then perform the suggested tests and measurements, cold and hot. Food for thought. RussN
  14. I agree with Vance, based on my own Harbor Fright experiences: You discovered a missing manager. RussN
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