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  • Gender
  • Location
    Northern Oregon, USA
  • Interests
    Steam machines, Urals, all Motorcycles, Aviation, Good People, Red Wines, Life, and the ability to enjoy them all.

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    1998 BC Classic Rig, well upgraded; 2003 Wolf, well ridden; 2008 Retro Rig, well... you know...
  • My Story
    Live in Mount Hood, Oregon, USA; Helped start USA Ural importer IMWA; Been to the Irbit Ural Factory twice, the second time with my 2 teenaged sons. It was a life-changing adventure. Am now happily retired (Aug. 2012)

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Russian Bike Nut

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  1. RussN


    And those of us with no useful comments are still watching and reading. RussN
  2. An interesting evaluation of the failure modes. Happily, my new unused alternator has worked perfectly all these years, in my parts cabinet! RussN
  3. On the alternator subject: I recently re-discovered that I have a brand new Ural "factory-reworked to resolve failure issues" ( early 2000s) 35 Amp alternator in my parts collection. Anyone need one? RussN
  4. A good development. I've been a fan of electronic ignitions for decades. The are a better idea. Pleased to hear you are back riding successfully. RussN
  5. Sounds like a timing issue. Carefully inspect the geometry differences of the old and new weights. RussN
  6. That implies something is slipping only when under torque stress. I would check the two transmission shift-adjustment screws for correct adjustment. (for lack of other ideas) I had to adjust those on my late 1990s and early 2000 Urals. RussN
  7. AHAH!! Good thing you figured that out. Thanks for sharing your lesson. RussN
  8. The suspense is killing me! And the part is ? and goes where? RussN
  9. With carb interiors like that, you can bet the gas jets are also plugged and require opening. Also make sure the fuel tank, shut-off valve and associated filter screen are totally clean and clear. And in the correct RUN position. (How do I know that one?...) And I've had visible spark, but a bad coil reducing the spark below ignition level. Replacing the coil brought the engine back to life. On three different Urals since I began riding them in 1998! Food(s) for thought. RussN
  10. Suspect some other problem preventing the engine from starting. The cylinders have compression. Fuel, Air, spark. The three essentials. RussN
  11. RussN

    Need Help

    Note on poorly running Ural engines: Both my son and I experienced Ural engine running issues. They acted like the low speed carb jets were (partially?) clogged. We each put half a can of SeaFoam (a fuel additive/solvent for engines) in each of our three Urals, and then ran them hard. https://www.amazon.com/Foam-Motor-Treatment-Part-B1SF16/dp/B01FSZ1AIC/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3SWU37VL6O6NH&keywords=seafoam+fuel+additive&qid=1663254448&sprefix=Seafoam%2Caps%2C324&sr=8-8 Within 20 miles the jets cleared and the engines are again running at full power with smooth throttle response. I can recommend SeaFoam as a useful solution to the carburetor cleaning problems we experienced. RussN
  12. HAHAHA Becky! ((-; "L" lalalala. RussN
  13. Get a compression tester such as this one on Amazon; https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-HW0130-Cylinder-Compression-Automotive/dp/B00SKSAB8U/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2DQKTAV8PS8QL&keywords=compression+tester&qid=1661616924&sprefix=compression+tester%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0RjBGMTNPSzlGR1cmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3NjA2NDkzVFkwUzFMR1lQNUVSJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMzE0NTAzU1lQV0c0S0NRWkpJJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Inexpensive and instantly useful. RussN
  14. Perform a compression check with a pressure-testing gauge in the spark pug hole. Compare both sides. But you may have already stopped the leak by annealing the gaskets, as you noted. Hope so. RussN
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