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Saltwaterdaze

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  • My Bike(s)
    URAL M67
  • My Story
    In the process of restoration

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  1. I can save the gearbox back plate if I can get the seal seat/ Journal Part # what looks like IMZ(HM3) 8.103-04109 which I have circled in the expanded diagram (Gear Box seal seat.jpg) Their are two parts one is the seal the other is the journal or seat that holds it.
  2. Cotter pin (wedge bolt) found thanks for your help Magnus had one
  3. I am hoping that the brains trust here can help. I need a part for my IMZ 8.103.00 - 650cc the gear box has an oil leak from the neutral finder (Hand gear) lever shaft. When the seal was removed to replace it the seal. The seal its self was not leaking what was leaking was the seat or journal it sat in as it was not fitted properly to the gearbox back plate. It appears that the seat been repaired quite badly and roughly at some time in the past. I will attach some picures of the assy for the neutral hand lever shaft the seal seat that holds the seal has been partly removed from the gearbox in the picture as I did not want to damage it more than neccessary in case I have to get one made. The Gearbox appears to be quite an early model may be from a M67 solo with no neutral sender unit even though my motorcyle is labeled IMZ 8.130.00 it has always been a solo and never had a sidecart and came from the USSR to Japan so could have been a one off order, before comming to Australia in 1990. The Gearbox is numbered 963636 if that is of any help. I had thought to replace the gearbox cover as well if one was available secondhand. But the seal seat would get me out of trouble I am in Brisbane, Australia. Hoping you can help Peter
  4. Neutral switch should be 1.5-2" to the right of the shaft in the first photo. There should also be TWO places for the gear lever (hand operated). I'm guessing that it's a very early "new" style and is forward gears only. Never seen one like that before. Might be very early M-67 solo, no real idea. Sorry. Thanks Peter the bike has always been a solo and never had a side cart.
  5. Ok Brains trust I have a couple of photos that may shed some light. Can anyone spot Wally? I think the sender switch should be where I have that arrow in the picture but looks like it was never there is this common? The only thing that remotly resembles a sender is where the rear brake return spring is attached and this is a bit of engineering I dont understand as it looks like the spring could have been attached several other places without the need for this in the casting and the bolt with grooved head just to hold a return spring. I thought I might have atcually been the sender at one time but their is no circuit. I think I was in a vodka dream at the time and experienceing REM.
  6. Did that post refer directly to the Dnepr twin leading shoe front brake? Won't work with any other. Hi Have a IMZ 8.103 I found a resolution to my problem by not using the lock nuts and they just fitted with the adjustments all the way in tight and a little lock-tight. I am guessing as they wear a bit I will be able to refit the lock nuts. But in the mean time the lock-tight and the tabs will prevent the adjuster fom moving. Not ideal I know but it works. I believe the brake shoes I purchased were made in China and have since found a Ebay seller BSA_79 who has Soviet parts for URAL 650 and Dnepr also Magnus has them too( Follow the link to his page in the links section) I still never figured out turning the cams 180 degrees and I dont think it is possible on my model motorcycle.
  7. I need a cotter pin for the neutral lever has anyone got a spare they can part with or knows where I can buy one? Its part # 7204317 While we are on the Neutral subject my 8.103 has a Neutral light on the dash but no sender can be found on the gearbox. Have looked at other modern bikes and it appears that it is supposed to be located on the gearbox above where the rear brake pedal is attached to the frame. The engine numbers and frame all match am wondering if at some time an older gearbox was fitted to the bike that had no Nuetral? I know the bike came from the USSR to Japan where it was found before making its way to Australia in a container of second hand forklifts back in the 80s. Thanks Peter
  8. They (Bjs) dont know much about BSA 650's either they have wasted so much of my time I live North of Brisbane, Bayside and have had several wasted trips in to see them after phone conversations with them. Thanks for the tip Peter
  9. Hi Peter thanks for the reply to my post my email is pjraft@yahoo.com

    PH 0488430193

    Regatds

    Peter

  10. I have read through the forums and tech tips and still need some advice (explanation) I am trying to fit a new set of brake shoes to my 8.103 motorcycle but they appear to be too big in diameter by about 2mm one mm per shoe when fitted to the cams with the adjuster all the way in and the cam adjusters on minium. I read in one of the posts about turning the cams 180 degrees but how is this done? I have looked at the setup up and I can’t seem to figure out how to go about it and how it will help. Is it common for new brake shoes not to fit when ordering them I only had a choice of width and the width is right. Do they require to be sanded down before fitting is this normal their seems to be a lot of meat on them? I have also found many of the spares ordered during the rebuild to be of poor quality. Cables that don’t fit, as the ends are slightly different, fork collars that have not been machined correctly during manufacture, Controls that are just rubbish etc. It seems I am constantly measuring and modifying and cannibalising brand-new parts with pieces of the old ones to make them work or fit properly. I have tried a few different suppliers but they all have the same crappy replacement parts. My local URAL dealer Bjs Bikes and Bits is as about as useful as canoe in a dry riverbed.
  11. The wheels are back thanks Rob for the rim I am really happy with the end result. Also the lower forks powder coated. Have posted the before and after photos
  12. Hi Rob, Ashes wheel works recieved the rim and we had to re drill but thats ok I am expecting the wheels back next week powdercoated and respoked with stainless. So all worked out well. I have also powdercoated the lower forks. I am hoping to be ready to register the bike in two weeks when the heads go back on. Peter
  13. Has anyone used any another type of handlebar switches and controls from another type of motorcycle? I had a look for some controls yesterday at a couple of motorcycle dealers but the more modern switches on new bikes are a lot different and couldn’t find anything suitable with a duel throttle cable set up. So Here is the problem. I have cannibalised the old switches and the new ones I bought to make a set that actually work properly. The new ones from Russian Garage were of such poor quality when they arrived admittedly the old original ones were pretty ordinary Cr#p in manufacture anyway. Maybe my expectations of how things are supposed to work are too much. Has anyone found a suitable replacement for Ural switches may be from a Jap bike?
  14. That's not a M-67 tag, it quite clearly reads IMZ-8.103 the following model to the M-67. From memory it's more like this one. Hey thanks I always thought my bike was a M67 clearly its a M68 I am new at this no expert just trying to help out with my limited knowledge.
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