Jump to content

DneprJohn

Members
  • Posts

    195
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DneprJohn

  • Birthday 11/17/1970

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Crestview, FL
  • Interests
    God, family, motorcycles, military vehicles, music, good BBQ, swordplay, guns.

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    chopperflames

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    2006 KLR 650 with Dnepr sidecar "Mike Kazowski" 2001 Honda Helix with California sidecar "Needles"
  • My Story
    Have been riding "unusual iron" since I was little, Russian iron off-and-on since 1996. Owner of Dneprheads Yahoo group.

DneprJohn's Achievements

Russian Bike Nut

Russian Bike Nut (3/3)

  1. Do Not Expect Performance or Reliability
  2. I had this problem, too. Ended-up being the air filter dirty. Cleaned it, and everything was fine.
  3. Probably not going to have problems with that much play. I've done it before, without much fanfare. For some reason, the end of my driveshaft would always crack where it contacts the ball, no matter how it is adjusted. Maybe your results will be different. The Ural driveshafts are much thicker on the end.
  4. Yes. Ural, CJ, early Dnepr, they all fit. Later Dnepr with the autoclutch would need shorter driveshaft. I have it boxed and ready for a shipping quote if you are interested.
  5. I have two non-electric start Ural gearboxes for sale, one complete, the other in pieces. Minimal spline wear on both. The one in pieces has a dipstick instead of the fill hole in the side. Airbox included. $150 plus shipping. K65T carburettors. Have about 26,000 Kilometers on them, could use a rebuild. Have viton-tipped float valves and vacuume ports. $20 plus shipping. I will also be parting-out a '97 650 Ural engine, PM me if interested. * all of it SOLD!!*
  6. Look in Soviet Steeds under Nuts and Bolts, Gobium videos: How to rebuild a starter. You can also look for it on YouTube.
  7. I found this at a Marine Surplus store for $15. I had to shorten it a bit with a hacksaw and remove the locknuts, but it works much better than the original, no flexing . I just used a good bit of red locktite once I had the length right so that it won't change or move.
  8. Sorry, I have the leading-link front-end. The shocks I took off the first time were about an half-inch longer than the ones I purchased on fleabay and installed- Actually improved the handling.
  9. Does anybody here rebuild shocks? I have replaced my fork shocks once, and now the new ones are beginning to leak. It's not a job I really want to take on myself, and the alternative is buying yet another set of shocks that may or may not last very long. I may have to price a set of Hagons...
  10. Holopaw was a good trip, though my alternator went out on the last day, because of a bad battery. The Honda dealership in Crystal River gave me a good used battery, and that got me home to Carrabelle. This bike can run a long time on battery power alone!
  11. Sorry, haven't been on Russian Iron for awhile! Truck Lites only come in 12v and 24v versions. They only draw 18 watts low beam and 28 watts hi beam, still below what a halogen pulls even if you doubled it. I don't remember what the stock incandescent pulls, but it would have to be high.
  12. While replacing the turnbuckle on my front drum brakes with something more substantial, I noticed a crack in the butt weld of the reaction link. It was more than halfway down the weld . The Dnepr reaction link is butt welded on each end, and bent to clear the front shock, although it doesn't need to be. There is plenty of room to make it straight. When the front brake is applied, the link "straightens", flexing the welds. Eventually, there will be cracks in the welds, and if not caught early, could give someone a really bad day . I ordered a Ural reaction link from Holopaw Ural, and got it within a couple days. It was a direct replacement, except that it is straight, and has much stronger circumference welds instead of the butt welds. If you have a Dnepr with a leading link fork, I suggest you inspect your reaction link today .
  13. Went for a test ride with Wifey in the sidecar. Gave her the flashlight and had her watch the engine while I rode. She found two small leaks in the engine front cover on the right side. I took the cover off and resealed it, hopefully that's it. Tired of this thing leaking oil all over my boots and leg. Couple more days, and it's time to head to Holopaw. Yay!!
  14. Did that to the letter: Doesn't leak, but the indicator light is staying on. Not good! I may have to put a different nose on the 424 and see if it will stop leaking. Thought that I had the 424 working well, new front seal, got it back together, works, but a few miles down the road, leaking all over! This is wearing me out. P.S. I was using the wrong kind of indicator lamp for the RCOP- an LED. Just took it out of the loop and used an incandescent test lamp, and it went out when I cranked the bike, came back on when I shut it off and turned the switch on. Yay!!!
×
×
  • Create New...