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racepres

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Everything posted by racepres

  1. Of course Not Do they even Know what one Is??? Neat Idea for your Project Tho I prefer the look of a Girder, leafers are very Interesting, and probably more appropriate for this Use..
  2. I will continue to use the Keihin's on the '07 Ural...and will only change out the Dnepr Carbs,(K63's) If/When I locate another set of CV Carbs suitable for the Dnepr.. IMO, CV Carbs are as close to Fuel Injection as one will attain...Yet, Much more adjustable, by Layman!!
  3. Flat Sides?? Good performance enhancement, but, I feel maybe Wasted on a Ural.. The good old round slide was probably dropped for Cost, maybe.. I have never felt Under carbureted with the Keihin's on the later Ural... You will be Starting with the Jetting used on the old Round Slide I would think..and I think, end up with leaner, due to supposed Better Signal, with the Flat slide...
  4. Nicely done.. Did you make the Nachelle [Covers] ??
  5. Interesting... Tell us about the front brake...Preferably in English please!!
  6. ^^^ Yer Gonna get it. Take yer time.. And have fun with the Journey..
  7. Good on ya... Nothing looks as Good as a Side Valve ...
  8. Yes... my yes... anything over 14v is excessive IMO... an intelligent employee of a "prominent" battery company once told me that the number one killer of lead Acid batteries... is Over-charging My experience at the drag strip Proved this out... before i educated myself... BTW... Never thought of adjusting "hot"... but ... now that you have given a report... I may Avoid that method...
  9. My Charge indicator is the lights...or if off, better yet, ...the Turn Signals.. The bike runs fine when those cease to function.. Early Warning System!!!
  10. I'm pretty sure any Mechanical regulator will work...wired correctly... Like the Old Harley unit.. But, I have not tried that yet.. IDC about the Charge lite.. long as the system works.
  11. Not a Chance...Around here anyway.. one day I will bite the bullet and get the Bridge!!
  12. I'm sure you mean 13.2v to turn the Light off.12.2 v is less than a 50% charge.. I'm needing to Change the diode bridge in my Alternator. Kinda Pricy, so... I put up with Total loss...
  13. Sorry, so many folks buying things like Ironhead Sortsters and Certainly Shovelhead Harleys, Then spend an Inordinate amount of Time and Money to turn them into something newer/more reliable.. Should Have gotten what was originally Desired...
  14. Think about the Original Design Parameters.. What conditions/limitations was each designed Around, or expected to Achieve? I bet you find the Latest design is expected to achieve the Most Performance.. Now, Do You expect to Redesign the thing?? If Yes, what would it evolve into??? The newer Design??
  15. My MT-11 was brought out of Canada, and Titled/registered as an assembled vehicle in Michigan, in 2003.. No part newer than 1986 found on it...
  16. ^^ Yup, My Dnepr came out of Canado as an Assembled Vehicle.. Tho it was Pretty obviously a "Package"..
  17. All Good... But on an H-D [only one I have experienced] Hand Shift and foot clutch is Decidedly Not a suicide set-up.. A Rocker clutch was utilized.. If you kick the clutch pedal down all the way it Rock's Over center and stays disengaged, even when foot removed.. The Shifter was not a Jockey either... or Hand Jammer as we called them... The lever actually selected the gear, reverse included, reason for the Shifter "Gate", to determine proper location of Lever related to gear... not necessary to ratchet the Shifter to whatever gear.. Now, After all that History... My Dnepr, as Pointed out, has a Dnepr-Matic feature.. Almost identical to the small Honda's of the late '60's and early '70's [I had a CT-70] the Shifter is attached to a Plunger on the Dnepr that Disengages the Clutch as the Shifter is operated.. Holding the Shifter Up, or Down all the way the Bike is In gear, but the clutch is Disengaged..Removing pressure on the shifter allows the clutch [physically] to be released...and away ya go...Look Ma.... No Hands Like Scott says... gonna need to take a page from the Chopper Handbook to do as you intend!!
  18. IDK But, It oozes Cool!!!!! I think that is referred to as a "Plunger Frame" big help...Maybe
  19. Excellent... But My K-65's had an Oring that was attacked by Ethanol, Not Flat, and were not the best Idea for that application anyway.. I have not required any Modifications to the inlet of the carb, so apparently, the tube is concentric enough to allow the viton taper to seal.. Long as it functions...all is good..
  20. good job... I have no need to fool with different carbs...
  21. Talking about the Coil?? Glad I put the old Harley coil on the Dnepr.. It certainly can handily recover from stuff like that.. BTW, My experience has been that Champion Spark Plugs, are most likely to recover from most Fouling, of course I hear that Now,they are Manufactured elsewhere!!! Oh, and NGK plugs are the Least Likely to recover from Fouling... I use Autolite Plugs ... just because that is what we use in the DragBike... as do Most, and they have recovered from gas fouling really well.. Not like the "old" Champions, but really quite well...
  22. I have a Typical 5ohm Harley coil on my Dnepr... even with one plug fouled or the line grounded, or the Plug removed... the other still fires just Fine...If the fouled plug has the Cap lifted to jump the Spark... it will fire and burn off any Carbon quickly.. so... wired in Series??? Maybe on the output side of the Step up transformer... but, ... "won't burn Carbon off of dead one", is decidedly not the case!!! Works just like a Single fire setup... fouled plugs Normally do Not come back on their own.. Some intervention is Required... lifting the cap is the simple-est
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