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Everything posted by dneprlover

  1. There are lots of differences. The MB650 is based on the MT10-36 , The bike shown is a 1990's MT16. There many threads on here about the differences but some simple pointers are that the MT16 has a braked sidecar wheel, The ignition switch is held in the console by 2 screws, the headlamp bowl is streamlined ,the indicators have round plastic bodies on later models and the handlebar throttle grip is built into the switchgear. An MB650 has no provision at all for a sidecar brake, the ignition swithch is hel in by a notched screwed ring, the headlamp bowl is rounded and shaped like half a soccer ball ,correct indicators would be alloy bodied rectangular shaped and tbe throttle is separate from the switchgear. I am no longer going to post on RI and will not be lurking on the site so will not react to PM's. My involvement ceases as from now. Bye folks.
  2. I can tell you it is not a Ural, it is not rare and it is not a red army war bike. Now, if you want our help, you can at least be truthfull and offer it at a reasonable price. It is chancers like you we advise people to stay clear of. Ps, looks like the kickstart spring is knackered.
  3. It looks like a pretty straight KMZ (Dnepr) k750 . Badges are correct and looks tidy enough. May be fitted with Ural silencers but can't tell clearly from the photos. What part of UK are you in?
  4. Personally, I won't buy from Alenka ( arbalet) . I spent lots of money with her at one time but an order went wrong and all I got from her was a tissue of lies. You will actually find Genuine M72 parts are quite rare and many parts offered by the Ukrainian sellers are misdiscribed, a few K750 parts are correct but be carefull what you order
  5. Nice looking bike. It actually does look like a genuine 1958 KMZ made m72. Wheels are correct for the year if they have a grease nipple for the bearings fitted on the outside face. Similar wheels with minor variations were used by KMZ Dnepr from round 1957 right up to factory closure . Wheel bearings are standard 30204 type from any supplier Steering head bearings are specials made originally for pre 1969 BMW's. Get them from pyramid parts on Ebay or try CJ750 ones from Ben at sidecarpro.com. CJ type pz28's carbs should be a straight swop for the ones you have but most M72's were fitted with unobtainium PZ24 type. The forks are more problematic. They are superb but were only fitted for a few years between about 1957-1963 and were discontinued because they wear very quickly and need lots of maintenance . Parts are very difficult to get hold of. Good luck with it, that bike deserves to be used.
  6. Wow, that is an interesting story. You must have a lot more perseverance than I have. I am told that those breather elbows are a common breakage part so it might be better if you order a spare now and save on postage for the future. This forum has a Scandinavian section, have you seen that? Might help you with owners closer to you geographically.
  7. If you have access to engineering facilities ( ship repair) could you not ask someone to fabricate one for you out of brass or a similar metal. That seems to be the way that owners in remote areas seem to cope with what is actually a common problem. Dave angel at F2 motorcycles in the UK will be able to supply one but he would probably want an arm and both your legs as shipping costs. Edit. Please enlighten us, how did you manage to get a Ural to the Faroe's? It is indeed a remote set of islands. I have family in the Shetlands and get up there sometimes, but I've never been as far north as you are.
  8. Most Ural dealers will stock them, the thread size is usually 3/4 x 10 British Standard Whitworth for breathers on Soviet era bikes. If you reform the thread to 3/4UNC, it should be easy enough to make a fitting up. Check the thread to see.
  9. If nothing wrong with the valve train, why black soot inside the rocker cover and on exhaust valve spring? Certainly the mixture needs setting but I think there is a valve guide problem as well.
  10. Black sooty plug? That's not a gasket problem. air would be drawn in by a gasket leak causing a weak mixture and white plug. actually sounds like you may have had too little valve gap and that has caused the seat to burn a little. You have a faulty exhaust valve guide? needs removing and checking. Guide, valve springs and seating all need a dose of looking at as does setting the correct clearance after the repair. Also check the mixture as it souns like that faulty cylinder is running rich. 95 and 91 psi is quite good for an MT9 and the differential is not a lot so that's nothing to worry about .
  11. Wedge the head in a secure position so you can get a straight pull on the tubes. Get a large adjustable spanner and close the jaws round the tube so you can slide the spanner to abut the tube seal lip. Pour boiling water over the head and let the heat soak in, then use a hammer to tap the spanner so as to draw the tube out of the head. They can be a bit tight but a good heat soak and a few whacks will usually get them out.
  12. The Russian points system illustrated in the Marusho PDF is NOT the mixing bowl of doom ( PM302) . It is the later, much more reliable PM302a. Assembly has been carried out incorrectly but that may be due to the requirements of the conversion
  13. My apologies, that's what happens when I speed read. The input shaft seals in the same way. There is a steel bush pushed tightly onto the shaft and an 'o' ring sits behind this to seal the splines. The normal seal fits in the gearbox case and lips onto this bush. Check where the oil is leaking from before changing the oil seal, it might be round the splines and therefore the o ring is at fault, possibly needing a gearbox strip to remedy. Not that long ago someone reported a drip fron the crankcase/gearcase area and when separated it proved to be the o ring seal on the kickstart spring tensioner, so check that as well.. It does appear as if your carb needles have already been changed as they are not the normal crap that one finds. I am told that the very latest Carbs K65/68 are being supplied new with an updated needle, possibly this is what you've got. If so, it will be the first viewing on here.
  14. I still think it is a post 2000 bike but that only matters in a couple of ways. All the parts are MT11 as far as I could see. Whether your bike was built in 1984 or 2011 does not make any difference as most parts are interchangeable and didn't alter much over the production period. Your crankshaft and timing case area is different from most of production and cranks are specific to the types of engine ( with/without oil filter) if you ever need to replace it you will have to remember that as the later engines like yours were too new to appear in most of the parts books. You have a title now, that's the very important bit, just enjoy the bike. Very well done on sorting it.
  15. LOL. Can't be a 1970's bike as production of the MT11 didn't start until at least 1984, and some sources state 1987. That's all bye the bye now. Congratulations on getting it sorted and I hope you have many happy hours together. They are Fun with a capital F. Enjoy.
  16. Re. The gearbox output shaft seal. There are actually 2 seals to stop oil leaking onto the doughnut, First is an outer normal oil seal that fits in the gearbox case and lip seals on the drive yoke, Second is an 'o' ring that slides down the splined output shaft and sits against the output bearing. When the yoke is fitted, this o ring compresses and seals against oil leaking down the splines. If it is not available, smear a little silicon gasket goo on the splines before fitting the yoke. Check for this o ring when dismantling, often it is missing and is the cause of annoying oil leaks in this area
  17. If you have found a 1/4" valve gap, you have probably lost the valve stem cap off that valve. Check it is still in position and if not, search for it . Set the valve gaps per the book and do a compression test. I can't post links using this tablet but someone will point you to Charlie Harvin's site for the online manuals. Which ignition system is fitted under the front cover? Best to start at the beginning and work logically Valve clearances Ignition timing Fuel supply How familiar are you with Dnepr's and what are your mechanical skills. How we pitch the advice depends on your answers.
  18. According to Mr Holden's blog his bike is an IMZ Ural 750cc patrol . I am not sure what year it was produced but I vaguely remember reading that it is a 2004 or 2005 model. It apparently took him several years to persuade the technical committee that the bike is actually a replica of a sidevalve KMZ (Dnepr) K750 model made in 1957. This is what it was race registered as so he could ride in the pre 1960 class. When news of his racing first surfaced, he was asked on several forums, what evidence he had provided to justify the registration of his bike as an early sidevalve model made in another country by a different manufacturer. To date, I believe he has avoided answering. I am told that the rules have since been changed.
  19. Same reason he points out every flaw or shortcoming. As knowledgeable as Mr. Lover is, his bedside manner is like nurse Ratchet. Lol. Dneprlover are you a doctor or a dentist by trade? Please read post number 12 and you will realise why I treat your remarks with contempt. People unable to form a reasonable argument are so predictable.
  20. As stated , French , Spanish and German. This will cover 85 % of the world. In your pdf. Put the international sign for earth next to the word ground in every case. Ground is a fairly USA specific term that many countries won't recognise . Can't see any reference to points system . possibly a front page showing pictures of every system yours will replace. Pictures are all Ural based. What does the manufacturers tool look like for finding TDC on a Ural or Dnepr? I have never seen or heard of one , and which is no.1 cylinder?
  21. Was he though? He managed to get his bike registered as a ' 1957 KMZ K750 replica' Look up the dictionary meaning of the word 'replica' . when asked in the past what evidence he had to prove this issue, he has always avoided answering as far as I know
  22. Pm me an address and I'll put you a pair in the post. You can reimburse postage via paypal when you are sorted. Edit. March 11th. 1 pair of used shoes posted to you today gratis. Get them refurbished by Saftek and it will work out a lot cheaper than buying the same item from our friendly local dealer. ( probably about a 50% discount from his prices) If you want to send several pairs at the same time, remove the sidecar ones and send them as well. If you take the cable off and adjust the screw on the swinging link to account for no sidecar brake, you won't miss it anyway. Brakes on L/h sidecars can be very hard to adjust correctly and the operating cables are unobtanium unless custom made. Most people do without.
  23. It helps if we know where you exist? Shoes can be bought from overseas cheap and Saftek in the UK will do a decent reline job for round a tenner a shoe . Plenty of S/H ones available over here but postage to Timbucktoo might be a tad expensive
  24. I must admit that flat heads do need as much help as one can give them and I can certainly see the Germans going for these ignitions as they seem to be well into the early bikes. One of the things I am often asked for is translations of instruction sheets. If you could supply those in the common continental languages such as German , French and Spanish as well as English, that would possibly be a sales help. I have been told that only supplying details in English is seen as arrogant in some areas, especially in some of the more prominent EEC countries.
  25. Not trying to discourage him, just trying to inject a little realism. Experimentation and development is always a good thing and he is to be admired for taking the project on. Choice in components expands the possibilities when building up our chosen steeds.
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