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Everything posted by Ratso88

  1. Resistor caps from NGK are LB05E also listed as 8031, google is your friend here. Common around here. I got them at a motorcycle accessories shop. Copper core spark plug leads, sold by the foot most auto parts places, pretty generic item, Packard 440 wire Harley coil is just a generic term for a common (in the US) twin fire coil. Mounts outside the engine cover. I'm not home now so I'll see about getting pictures when I am. The condenser I'm running is what I had in my stash when the original failed. I have a new stock condenser in case of future failure. Stock points too. Carry a spare set. Although, I've never changed them in the 17 or so years of running the stock points. Good luck on this.
  2. dunno about the BR6HS, I run the BP7HS in my Neval/Dnepr import model. Also use the previously mentioned 5K ohm resistor caps from NGK, copper core wire, stock points and Harley coil. And a condenser for a Bosch 009 distributor, left over from my air cooled VW days. Not sure where you're located but the guys at NAPA have always been helpful. Other auto parts houses not so much.
  3. I've used most all of the previously mentioned sources. All with good results. Also Arbalet-Ukraine and Magnus Henriksson out of Estonia. Shipping out of Ukraine to the US was what I expected, couple weeks. I ordered a piston and rings from Magnus and had it in a week, nice. Best of luck.
  4. Nice Kitchen, what's for breakfast? As turning the brake drums goes . . . As a younger man I worked at a Brake and Front End Shop, we brought our cycle wheels in and turned the drums on the shops brake lathe. It's a one sided set up so no problem with wheel diameter. Kinda spend for occasional use. Maybe there's a shop near you? Nice job so far, I'm enjoying reading up on your progress.
  5. Yep, I've been running a capacitor that I put in my "used spare parts" bin before I installed it on the bike. It's for an air cooled VW running a Bosch 009 distributor, I just cut of the mounting tab put it in place of the Soviet item and it works. I'm running a stock points set up with an unknown aftermarket coil. I did make up new plug wires with NGK resistor caps and running NGK plugs. Been running that way for years.
  6. Yeah, reworked the brakes last week before leaving for work. I didn't have time to ops check them on the road, just the driveway. Little more tweaking and a cross town run yesterday and I'm pretty pleased. I'm going to have to readjust my braking points to account for actually having brakes that work now. Yep, good to be out and about.
  7. Good news on the rig. Bad news on getting hit, hope you made it out alright too. I think fall is the best time of year to be riding. Good break in weather.
  8. Hey all, I got the Dnepr back up and running. I've been parked for the last five or so years, life just kept getting in the way. I was getting a heavy vibration that increased with RPM. I had suspected the clutch screws had come loose. Well, years later I pulled the trans and yes, two screws were loose and one the head had half departed.This was my own fault as I reused the same screws when I redid the clutch a few years before. So, I learned not to be so cheap. I picked up a set of upgrade screws from Ural Zentral for a wopping 8 bucks. A little cussing and the old screws came out, the new went in with some red Loctite. Not gonna mess with those for a while. Little messing around with the carbs and it fired up and ran smooth. I've been running around town just fine. Happy to be on three wheels.
  9. Try swapping the carbs side to side, if that's possible, see if the problem follows. I had a very similar problem on my Dnepr, turned out to be a vacuum leak. Never hurts to double and triple check. Simple things first.
  10. Yep, I have a Neval. Much like the MT16 Dnepr. It has the coil mounted on top of the engine, tach and single SU carb. I ran the single carb set up for a couple years in all weather conditions (below freezing to humid summers and rain) and never experienced any carb icing. I'm located in Indianapolis. I later swapped the single carb for a pair of Russian carbs and the stock Dnepr air cleaner. Not that the SU was ever a problem, I just wanted a more stock Soviet set up. Other than the previous owners attempt at replacing the LH piston it has been very reliable. I ended up replacing the piston again with no issues. Poor guy installed some unknown, to me, flat top piston. I used the later Dnepr domed piston
  11. Well, the new speedo showed up Friday. I opened up the bezel and undid the two screws holding the clock works in the housing. With an old cable and drill I was able to spin it up. Right away I could tell that the fossilized remains of the grease was preventing it from spinning as smoothly as it should. I used a combination of carb cleaner and contact cleaner with a brush and compressed air I was able to clean it up pretty good. I used new grease and some light machine oil to relub the works. Upon install the next morning and a test ride it worked flawlessly and smooth. No jumping needle or strange sounds. The down side is the odometer isn't working now. It worked on the bench so I figure this weekend I'll have another look inside. I'll let you know what I find.
  12. Hello floks, I'm at a loss here. I've gone through two speedometers on my Dnepr. The drive input keeps twisting off, never seen this type of failure before let alone twice on one bike. The original speedo lasted about 1300 KM before failure, it was showing 1629 when I took ownership of the bike. The last speedo was showing 1 KM when I installed it and failed the sme way at 114 KM. It was a little noisy at first but quieted down after a few KM's. I suppose that have sat on a shelf for 20 plus years has it's own issues. Maybe the russian grease gets too had or ???. I have a third on order and plan to open it up for a complete clean and lube before install. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers!
  13. Ratso88

    Fork oil

    You're lucky you got anything out of the forks. By the way, someone installed your sidecar on the "wrong side".
  14. Ratso88

    Fork oil

    I'm pretty sure it's 130cc. I used 10w Bel Ray fork oil. Works good . . .
  15. After you're done with the trouble shooting outlined above if you still need parts Ken at U-2 has supplied me with some parts and Magnus in Estonia has also supplied parts without problems. Both are listed in the Links section. If you need more help shoot me a PM. I'm on the West Side of Indy.
  16. Yeah, I'd like to have seen him get out too. I've been in similar situations, stuck on a muddy up hill though, and smoked the clutch. Smart to get off and push before that happens.
  17. Hey, thanks for the info on the seal. Checked on line and it's only 6 bucks. Still haven't been able to find anything on the bearings, the search goes on.
  18. Hello all, after recently getting the Dnepr back on the road, new piston & rings on LH jug, I am thinking that the generator bearings are headed south. The regular gear whine is being drowned out by a new grinding, crunching, squealing type of noise. It seems to get worse when warmed up. It is still making power, putting out 14.26v on the ol' Fluke meter, with all lights on and just above idle. I would like to upgrade the bearings to current standards, the goal being quiet operation and long life. If anyone knows what the replacement bearing and seal part numbers for a G424 generator are I'd appreciate the information. I'd like to be able to knock out the bearing R & R on a Saturday or Sunday. Any additional input would be welcomed also. Cheers!
  19. I've run into this stuck inner race problem a couple times. A die grinder or dremel with a cut off wheel will do the trick. I usually try to cut 99% of the way through the race, without cutting into the material underneath, in one or two places. Then I use a chisel and hamer to split the race. One day I'd like to try a bearing splitter. Can never have too many tools! http://www.mytoolstore.com/otc/1122.html
  20. Outstanding! The tractor mufflers seem a good fit, in more ways than one. Best of luck.
  21. Hello Trapr, I've seen this happen with plastic gas cans, every winter they collapse and every summer they expand. If your can is metal, and you have access to an air compressor, I would wrap a shop rag around an air nozzle, jam it into the the gas can and give it a little pressure. Make sure the can is empty and remember no smoking. Don't over do it or you'll balloon your can. Good luck.
  22. I like it. No worries about polishing, just ride. The red pin stripe is right there, understated. Although the chrome pipes and mufflers are a real question mark. ??? Can they not be black also? Still no bucks for new bikes. . . I would if I could.
  23. I don't think that bad rings would make any noticable sound. Could be piston slap if it's a little loose in the bore. I would check the compression and pull the head/cylinder for further isnpection if I really wanted to be sure. Let us know if you find anything.
  24. Bob, yeah proper tire irons help alot. On my Dnepr I have a spare tire carrier. I use this to hold the wheel still while mounting and dismounting the tire. Otherwise I use an old milk crate to hold the wheel off the ground while I go at it with the irons. Once the air is out you can break the bead by laying the wheel on the ground and stepping on the tire near the rim, this usually takes a few seconds for each side. An old towel or some shop rags can protect the disk/drum/hub from contatc with your work surface. If yu have a disk you may wish to remove it before stomping on the tire as not to bend the disk. Lastly, I use some regular liquid dish soap and water for lube, both for removing and installing the tire It almost slides on by it self. The soap dries tackie and I've never had a tire slip on the rim. Except a dirt bike tire or two, running about one third the pressure of the Dnepr. Pretty straight forward, just don't pinch the tube! Colt
  25. Hey there now! Check is in the mail! I'll be looking for the sidecar rigs, hope to meet you there.
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