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Everything posted by haj

  1. pz28 .. they do sometimes require some jetting. I run 100 or 102 jets in mine (can't remember).
  2. Well, most old stuff works quite all right with SAE30 or SAE50.. Personally I stay away from synthetics on my older engines. And run a classic 20W50 on my K750, and a classic gear oil in the gearbox and final drive.. I replace the engine oil at around 2500km, or at least ones every year. If it had an oil filter I guess I'd replace it every 5000km. It seems to work all right. On my other older MC (A DKW 2-stroke) I'm using a classic SAE30 on the gearbox.
  3. I've never seen anyone sell the parts.. The damper disc if oil flows through the notches must have firmer dampening with 1 notch than 3, otherwise I've got no clue :)
  4. Hey, If you have alcohol in the fuel and the bike has been sitting for a while.. I'd try replacing the fuel also.. Here in Denmark 1 year old fuel can struggle to burn at all after they started putting ethanol in it.
  5. Also, it should be noted that 1WD owners always fly the chair for minutes at a time when they ride in front of 2WD riders. (I know I do.. and I'm pretty sure my friend Brian is unhappy about it)
  6. My flywheel has a couple of 10mm (I think, might be 8mm) threaded holes for a puller. What I normally do is put my homemade puller - thick piece of steel with a couple of holes in it - on using two bolts in these holes and let it sit on the loosened central bolt. I tighten the puller quite a lot, and if it doesn't get the flywheel to pop off I'll then hit it a few times with a hammer on top of the central bolt (actually on my homemade puller, that sits on the bolt). That hasn't failed to get it off yet.
  7. And the trick then is to blow air back through the tube and into the gastank.. that'll loosen up most crap. (I'd normally use my lungs to provide this air)
  8. In regards to oil flow one cylinder is partly lubricated by the oil pump. The passage for the oil is between the lower cylinder bolts, and one should notice that this doesn't always line up with the hole in the gasket - so this should be checked and the gasket cut to correct if it's not there. The oil is supposed to run around the cylinder in a groove there and enter the valve area, and then go on the top of the piston through 3 holes. You can see this on the lube chart too. NEVER use liquid gasket on the bottom cylinder gasket. (I'm only mentioning it because it's happened to people before that they don't notice this particular oil passage. And I think I actually burned a piston because if this when I was a K750 newbie back in 2011)
  9. You need to retard timing to start, which is done by pulling the lever backwards against the spring. It's mostly needed to avoid it kicking back.. :) I also use the lever to get a better idle waiting for green lights.. And sometimes when riding slowly in high gear, up a hill and stuff like that.
  10. Well yes it's not that "spring'y"... I'm pretty sure a homemade piece of metal would do just fine.
  11. Hey, For years I've used a large O-ring and liquid gasket, which has been working quite well. with only a little bit of leakage. Now I'm using kork without liquid gasket, and that works quite well too, no leakage after about a month. As long as you have the spring-thing pushing the generator forwards and tighten it up well you should be ok.
  12. Yes I'd agree on that.. It did have a loose clutch screw issue a few years back, where a screw blocked the flywheel.. It may have started a hairline crack there, who knows.. :) I hope I'll get the replacement soon.
  13. Hey, Anyone had one of these before? No wonder the clutch was hitting the gearbox all of a sudden. Flywheel wobbled like 4-5mm. Got this crank as a replacement 7 years ago, and have been riding it at 70-80kph quite often.. I'm guessing I've put down 20.000km on this crank. Ordered another one from oldtimers garage. Since I like him. Good news is everything else in the engine seems fine ;) // Hans
  14. Looking in the book, it actually doesn't have much offset to the flanges. The spokes are 4mm thick, so looking at the image it has to be centered - or just about centered - on the flanges. Anyway on a sidecar rig it shouldn't make much difference anyway.. :) "Before performing the adjustment, lap down the spokeheads in the nests. When tensioning the spokes, ensure that the distance between the brake drum endface and the rim is equal to 4mm +1.5 /-.5"
  15. haj


    Hey, From what I know, Modern oils have additives to keep debris in floating in the oil, so that it gets handled by the filter. Thats why they make classic oils. If you have a K750 or M72 they don't have any filters to take care of this, so debris should settle in the oilpan and in the oil slings, where it should stay until cleaned out. I myself have been using castrol classic xl 20w-50 mineral oil the last couple of years, and this year I'm trying a different brand that is supposed to be a copy of the castrol classic xl 20w-50, as the guy I bought it from says it smells the same and has the same specs. I'm replacing the oil at least ones every year, sometimes two depending on how much I ride, I'm guessing I change it every 2000-3000km. (My odometer has been broken for quite some time). Also, if you don't have a magnetic drain plug, I'd get one :) it does quite a good job of collecting metal debris.
  16. haj

    MT sidecar

    Hey, oldtimers garage sells them.. I'm guessing it's press fit ? Anyway email them and ask perhaps, they'll know.
  17. haj

    MT sidecar

    Hey, It does indeed look like it's bent.. I don't think anything bad will happen by correcting this.. As long as you heat it up to a nice orange with a torch while you do it. You'll also need some kind of steel pipe to pull it straight.. In order for it to be like this it must have been in some sort of crash I think.
  18. haj

    MT sidecar

    Any chance for some photos showing the problem? I think my sidecar wheel has a bit of negative camber, which makes it look kind of funny from behind with correctly setup sidecar and the motorcycle leaning out with positive camber.. Almost looks like it's falling over ;) I have thought about doing something about it, but it doesn't feel like it's affecting the ride so I've not bothered.
  19. Hey, Perhaps you can measure if the rim sits in center by mounting the wheel on the bike. I'm guessing the rim should for instance be centered in the front fork. I don't know about Ural's but I'm pretty sure the old KMZ / Dnepr wheels have no off-set. Also, another advice is to remember to check tightness of the spokes after a little bit of riding. I always find they can be tightened a bit after some riding, and then again after some more riding. Loose spokes will break at the hub.
  20. Masking tape is easy to remove, when it's newly applied.. If it has been there for a few weeks it's really hard to remove. I'd use paint or grease.. Also it might be nice to check on older bikes that the brake drum is actually the same size, so you don't end up with brake pads that don't fit. My spare wheel doesn't work with shoes from my other wheels because it has been machined at some point.. So I always carry the shoes that work with the spare as well :)
  21. I'm pretty sure Dnepr's don't have any offset on the wheels. I base this on that the original spokes are all the same length. Also, the wheels are all the same.. since the spare fits on all positions.
  22. For people living in EU I can recommend getting rims from Central Wheel in the UK, they have some not chromed classic rims that are nice, cheap and round :) and they bore them to fit your hubs. Also I have gotten one from moto-boxer that cost about the same and seems to be nice quality... Also, very round :) If your rims aren't round, don't lace them... doesn't make any sense.. :)
  23. I just had to replace mine, since they where to worn to get an acurate measurement from... After only 7 years (I'd guess around 3-4000km/year on average). perhaps my capacitor is a bit ######ty? :)
  24. Hey, I run leds in my rear lights, a regular 5v in the sidecar position light (or whatever it's called) and a 10w halogen as position light / running light.. That works out a treat. I understand the problem of getting the parts, it's a bit of a problem here in Denmark as well. I try to stock all parts that will need changing eventually. especially if they are cheap-ish :)
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