haj

pz28 .. they do sometimes require some jetting. I run 100 or 102 jets in mine (can't remember).

Well, most old stuff works quite all right with SAE30 or SAE50.. Personally I stay away from synthetics on my older engines. And run a classic 20W50 on my K750, and a classic gear oil in the gearbox and final drive.. I replace the engine oil at around 2500km, or at least ones every year. If it had an oil filter I guess I'd replace it every 5000km. It seems to work all right. On my other older MC (A DKW 2-stroke) I'm using a classic SAE30 on the gearbox.

I've never seen anyone sell the parts.. The damper disc if oil flows through the notches must have firmer dampening with 1 notch than 3, otherwise I've got no clue :)

Hey, If you have alcohol in the fuel and the bike has been sitting for a while.. I'd try replacing the fuel also.. Here in Denmark 1 year old fuel can struggle to burn at all after they started putting ethanol in it.

Also, it should be noted that 1WD owners always fly the chair for minutes at a time when they ride in front of 2WD riders. (I know I do.. and I'm pretty sure my friend Brian is unhappy about it)

My flywheel has a couple of 10mm (I think, might be 8mm) threaded holes for a puller. What I normally do is put my homemade puller - thick piece of steel with a couple of holes in it - on using two bolts in these holes and let it sit on the loosened central bolt. I tighten the puller quite a lot, and if it doesn't get the flywheel to pop off I'll then hit it a few times with a hammer on top of the central bolt (actually on my homemade puller, that sits on the bolt). That hasn't failed to get it off yet.

And the trick then is to blow air back through the tube and into the gastank.. that'll loosen up most crap. (I'd normally use my lungs to provide this air)

In regards to oil flow one cylinder is partly lubricated by the oil pump. The passage for the oil is between the lower cylinder bolts, and one should notice that this doesn't always line up with the hole in the gasket - so this should be checked and the gasket cut to correct if it's not there. The oil is supposed to run around the cylinder in a groove there and enter the valve area, and then go on the top of the piston through 3 holes. You can see this on the lube chart too. NEVER use liquid gasket on the bottom cylinder gasket. (I'm only mentioning it because it's happened to people before that they don't notice this particular oil passage. And I think I actually burned a piston because if this when I was a K750 newbie back in 2011)

You need to retard timing to start, which is done by pulling the lever backwards against the spring. It's mostly needed to avoid it kicking back.. :) I also use the lever to get a better idle waiting for green lights.. And sometimes when riding slowly in high gear, up a hill and stuff like that.

Well yes it's not that "spring'y"... I'm pretty sure a homemade piece of metal would do just fine.

Hey, For years I've used a large O-ring and liquid gasket, which has been working quite well. with only a little bit of leakage. Now I'm using kork without liquid gasket, and that works quite well too, no leakage after about a month. As long as you have the spring-thing pushing the generator forwards and tighten it up well you should be ok.

Yes I'd agree on that.. It did have a loose clutch screw issue a few years back, where a screw blocked the flywheel.. It may have started a hairline crack there, who knows.. :) I hope I'll get the replacement soon.

Hey, Anyone had one of these before? No wonder the clutch was hitting the gearbox all of a sudden. Flywheel wobbled like 4-5mm. Got this crank as a replacement 7 years ago, and have been riding it at 70-80kph quite often.. I'm guessing I've put down 20.000km on this crank. Ordered another one from oldtimers garage. Since I like him. Good news is everything else in the engine seems fine ;) // Hans

Looking in the book, it actually doesn't have much offset to the flanges. The spokes are 4mm thick, so looking at the image it has to be centered - or just about centered - on the flanges. Anyway on a sidecar rig it shouldn't make much difference anyway.. :) "Before performing the adjustment, lap down the spokeheads in the nests. When tensioning the spokes, ensure that the distance between the brake drum endface and the rim is equal to 4mm +1.5 /-.5"

Hey, From what I know, Modern oils have additives to keep debris in floating in the oil, so that it gets handled by the filter. Thats why they make classic oils. If you have a K750 or M72 they don't have any filters to take care of this, so debris should settle in the oilpan and in the oil slings, where it should stay until cleaned out. I myself have been using castrol classic xl 20w-50 mineral oil the last couple of years, and this year I'm trying a different brand that is supposed to be a copy of the castrol classic xl 20w-50, as the guy I bought it from says it smells the same and has the same specs. I'm replacing the oil at least ones every year, sometimes two depending on how much I ride, I'm guessing I change it every 2000-3000km. (My odometer has been broken for quite some time). Also, if you don't have a magnetic drain plug, I'd get one :) it does quite a good job of collecting metal debris.