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Everything posted by greenmachine

  1. Have fun doods and doodettes ! Me , Tadpole, and Green Sonja and the Jeep JK are loadin up the giant motorcoach next week to head to our site in Arizona for most of the winter then on to Palm Springs/ Indio and then to San Diego and a month or so headin back through the Gulf area around Juneish or so. Had a pretty good summer around home with some time in Michigan when it gots hots . I hope all of you have a GREAT time at FART, and toss back a Baltika for me and Froggy! Who's makin the SOUP?? Tadpole is still alive and well with over 140 thou already. I had to do the valve shim thing last week and it reminded me that modern is not always "better" .... besides he falls over now and then for no apparent reason. I STILL haven't figured that out .... Have FUN and ride SAFE! Kermitski of the desert
  2. Well, that sure sucks Ken. Our sincere condolences to Mark's friends and family. Let's be careful out there. kermitski of the great white north
  3. Froggy is done sold and loaded up and gone over the horizon in a giant truck ..... Thanks to all you fine folks that showed interest in this rig. Good luck to his new owner, Ryan, who will have a nice present waiting for him when he gets back from Afghanistan next month. He also has a Dnepr from what I could tell, so Froggy should be in relatively good hands. I was extremely sad at his final departure today. I will miss that rig more than anyone knows. He was my best buddy and companion of a thousand adventures. He is a noble frog, a studly frog, a legendary frog, an heroic frog, a frog of which songs shall be sung ...... you get the picture..... Long live the bedraggled but yet still dreaded Frog-of-War . Be well and have fun, both to the feckless amphibian and his new master! kermitski of the great white north
  4. Well.... If you can adjust the screws in the proper direction, you SHOULD get to a place where it will go into gear and not come out.... or not go into gear at all, etc.... which should indicate the maximum adjustment available on that gear with the unit as is.... If you can't get to either limit then yer not adjusting enough ? or it ain't workin ? If you can't find a sweet spot that operates properly, then I'm thinkin ya done busted it and yer gonna need to split open the gearbox and see exactly what mayhem must be corrected like in the shifter plate and/ or detent ball ,etc.... just a thunk MOST of the time you can slightly adjust about an eight turn of the adjuster screw on the direction you need more tolerance on and it will stay in gear just peachy after that. If not, then it's done busted... ;-( kermitski
  5. Were ya expecting to get back to NV the SAME October ???? That might be askin a lot ..... ;-) Any shiny new Ural rig needs to get tweaked a bit before ya head out on a long trip, or plan for a few surprises. Probably oughta plan for some surprises even if ya DO put a few thou on it and tweak it. Often a new rig will run in without any big issues, sometimes not so much. Pretty much like ANY new bike with a lot of "stuff" on it. Go put 10 thou on the rig. Get it sorted out and figure out how to operate it without blowin it up or hurtin yerself or any small children or dogs that stumble into your path. Get your parts to play nice together, and get the electrical system to where it ain't gonna puke at the first sign of rain or a few miles of washboard gravel. I hate to hear of folks " breaking in " a new Ural out on the highway. That isn't a real great way to do that. I, myself, am not a big fan of continuous speed. Speed is anything higher than about 45 MPH. I don't care what anybody says, it's a fact. If ya run yer Ural in the 50MPH bracket with plenty of engine braking and nice smooth shifts it'll go on forever. If ya go run it down the slab at 65MPH it won't like it. It might not blow up THAT day, but it won't forget that ya abused it. I'm jus sayin.... :-) I've done my share of kliks, and my butt tells me slow and steady is the way these things like to be run. They don't care if ya throw on 600lb of crap in the chair. They don't really care if ya run heavy through the desert mountains in the summer. They for sure don't care if ya run day after day through snow and ice and blizzard conditions. What they do NOT like is to be run down the highway at the speed limit. Stuff will happen. Not good stuff. These rigs are just as " reliable " as any other motorcycle available today, and easier to keep running with simple tools. They are not as simple as they once were, but on the other hand MOST of the internal components are of better material and tolerances. On a '10 model check that the rocker system has been checked to not be within the " bad batch " and that it is wearing in nice and even and the ends aren't comin off the pushrods. All the gears on the new model are much improved, except for the final drive which is pretty much the same as always other than the backwards freakin primary driveshaft-device-of-the-Devil .... There isn't any " shift in space and time " that makes the newest rigs far superior to any IMWA era rig. They do evolve over time, and many things get better. A few things always pop up on any model year that end up getting changed again maybe once or twice over the next couple years too. Go git ya a shiny new rig. Go ride the snot out of it and get used to it and tweak it into submission. THEN load up all yer tools and spares and head out. Take yer cell phone and take yer time. All will be well. One thing that is for sure, is that IMWA takes care of folks that have a warranty problem when out on the road. Better customer support from the factory than almost any other make. Remember: if ya need a pushrod you can use a drill bit from Ace hardware to git ya home.... ( don't laugh, it's been done ) Have FUN and ride SAFE! kermitski of the great white north
  6. If you put the larger jugs on your VW you are most assuredly under-carbed .... I " tweaked " a 49 bug one time with 1800CC jugs from a Porsche and did the exhaust and heads.... Ended up with TWO 48 IDA downdraft Weber carbs on a dual intake manifold . I'm jus sayin .... Of course, we were gettin about a hunnert ponies out of that engine, and had a Bus transaxle / gears along with a camber compensator and swivel control rear steering brakes and goodies like that. I still miss that little bug. What a HOOT it was at the local autocross course ... ;-) kermitski
  7. greenmachine


    Yep. Hope all is well with you and yours. Sara's Place is only a bar now. No more free coffee from the HD sissies on cold mornings .... Come to think of it, I'm never around here when it's that cold in the morning these days. So it all works out in the end .... Have FUN and ride SAFE. :-) kermitski of the great white north
  8. Clean air filter element due to over oiling ? I'm just sayin ...... ;-) kermitski
  9. greenmachine


    Dennis is on the IMWA board and often on the sovietsteeds board too. kermitski
  10. Check with Rich Maund . He can fix you up with whatever ya need pretty much in that area... kermitski
  11. We are NOT gonna make it over there Lee. More's the pitty..... Looks like Froggy ain't gonna be mine after this week AND we gots to go to Charlotte, Michigan this weekend to have the chassis factory do some tweaks to our motorcoach. I was thinkin about ridin over to visit for a day on the Tadpole, but it ain't gonna happen. Eat an extra burger or two for me .... and tell Nancy that Green Sonja says HEY ! I met up with Randy yesterday and it sounded like he was gonna show up with his rusty and nasty Tourist wich I can't allow to get too close to Froggy cuz that Chicago-creepin-crud might infest an otherwise beauteous vehicle PLUS whenever Randy gets too close he tends to bend and cruch parts on other people's rigs .... kermitski
  12. I'm pretty sure that the 424 gen has an external voltage regulator, while it's built into the back of the RPOC 35A unit. Check the wiring diagrams for the early to mid-90s 650s and that should show ya how to wire one up. Other than running a bit puny at low revs the gen will put out plenty of amps to run the rig assuming ya don't have a triple light-bar or sumthing like that. A big battery doesn't hurt anything that I know of. Much more reliable than the RPOC IMHO.... but not as nice as a ND unit which tends to be quite reliable AND puts out all the power one should ever need. Also it costs more. Most stuff is like that ..... ;-) kermitski
  13. Usually poor fuel flow , often caused by crud in the screen or partially blocked vent line.... Also ya might want to check the vacuum connections/ tubing and petcock for operation. At more open throttle plate positions a vacuum leak can allow the fuel valve to partially or completely close off .... which is why some folks do NOT like petcocks that SUCK ..... Scuzzy intake filter element OR blocked exhausts cats can have a similar effect where the engine doesn't want to pull high power but will idle just peachy .... ;-) kermitski
  14. Yet ANOTHER job well done ! Have FUN and ride SAFE.... kermitski
  15. Hey, if ya can get through Chicago without goin to jail then ya should be able to travel freely in our nation's capital..... OK.... I did ALMOST go to jail in Chicago. But, just that one time ..... Mounting the MG will most assuredly attract attention. Some of it from the gendarmes. Most times this will work out just peachy. Talk nice and they are usually no problem. It's a good idea to brief one's local polezei as to what's up widdat, I'm just sayin .... Not a good idea to do a drive-by on city hall for instance if unannounced..... BTDT .... The Froggy seldom carries the MG on the mount these days. But, when one doesn't want to go to the ball without a proper dress .... then he shall show up with " the works " . If you think you get UDF with a "normal " russian rig ya ain't seen NUTHIN ..... ;-) kermitski
  16. Have FUN Ken ! Pick up a load o' goodies...... kermitski
  17. For sale: Located in Shorewood, Illinois A Y2K model Patrol Engine is IMWA 750 / Type 5 ignition Tranny is IMWA current version FD is late version updated with proper course splined driveshaft Color is ultra-flat OD GREEN CAMO and black Brakes are all mechanical drums Exhaust is custom straight J-pipes into Modtop mufflers, no crossover under oil filter Custom trunk latch Carbs are OEM CVK w/ hardmount compliance fittings Alternator is recent IMWA N/D with coupler approx one year in use Shocks are rebuildable air/oil/spring russian units all around Leg shields are Dnepr STEEL Panniers are Milspec cold war version with military thumbscrew mounts. Messenger box is mounted to left rear also Dual aluminum jerry cans with steel mounts under spare wheel and luggage rack Hand guards are standard old-style OEM Controls are russian dual-cable Lamps have mechanical control and no relays Signals have thermal mechanical flasher unit Front and rear brake lamp switches both installed and operating All lamps function Battery is recent Interstate Cables all replaced last fall Speedo functions and shows approx 60,000K... but total is not always accurate due to some gear wear. Comes with new speedo cable. Trip and speed functions are OK. Internal lighting improved with reflective material and open covers Neutral lamp moved to top right on panel for better visibility Comes with : Duro street tires mounted plus one C-97 knobby all with wear PLUS... THREE shiny new C-97 knobbies hand trimmed and ready to go A spare driveshaft/ fork Both black and camo tonneau covers AND hack windshield and apron Brand new Rich Maund side curtain in black Camo seat cover A spare tractor seat mount Standard tool kit roll Factory manual Tire pump in trunk w/ carb fitting Many various spare parts and pieces in a box or two including some hardware , filters and gaskets etc The LMG is a custom made Irac-Inc ANM2 model russian 8MM Browning. It operates on oxygen/LP tanks which can be placed in the trunk with Harris pressure controls and anti-blow-back valves. There is one ammo can for show, including a belt of practice ammo linked... and one can for GO which includes the firing coil/solenoids/switches etc to fire the weapon in a perfectly authentic manner. This is NOT a TOY and is not suggested to be used in any manner or locale for any particular purpose, etc... It is a NON-GUN, but requires a bit of knowlege and common sense or it should NOT be configured to operate or even mounted if the prospective purchaser lacks in these areas .... The value of the LMG is approximately $1400 used, $2000 new. The tanks, valves and hoses are probably around $300. The SOUND and FLASH are priceless ... The mount is actual military M-48. The appropriate mount for this style B-17 nose gun which was supposedly popular for some time in the motherland during the Great Patriotic War. This Unique rig has a total of approximately 460,000 kilometers of use. The engine was installed at around 170,000K. The gearbox a couple years ago and the FD also a couple years only. I'll throw in a Type 4 igntion complete unused with the spares... One owner, clear Illinois title Garage kept Ridden in ALL weather and conditions known on the planet Maintained when needed In pretty good shape actually, quite spiffy A daily driver except for the last two winter periods when Froggy has had to hibernate Please PM or E-mail me if a serious shopper. I'm not going to sit on this rig. I've priced it quite low to get this done quickly, I think, and am not in a haggling mood for the Frog-of-War. This has been a wonderful rig and will miss it greatly. Too many toys and no place to put em ... The price is : $3750 Come and ride it home.... I can deliver if required in the midwest. kermitski
  18. Wow..... Free beer too !! What's this world comin to ..... That's truly pathetic .... I can't make make it, but I would most assuredly be there if I could make it !! ;-) kermitski
  19. Cracked lenses are not actually much of an issue for most folks. I've cracked ONE over the years by not assembling the unit with enough care. Ya need to fit the pieces together right and then do NOT over tighten the screws or they will break the lense with stress. I know ya can get NOS lamps and pieces from Gene at Holapaw for one. I'm sure Terry can get what ya want. A few rigs have various replacement lamps, usually due to a particular look the owner is going for.... but other than running into stuff or busting the lamps yourself, they seldom need replacement. YMMV kermitski
  20. I would for sure give your local dealer a shot at your business. If they don't have the inventory you need or ya don't get good vibes, then ya can always do business further away from home. Many folks in the north central area have dealt with Terry Crawford for rigs and various parts and pieces as well as mechanical work. They have a good rep on the street as they say, and carry a good parts inventory with prompt shipping. You'll probably find that it is quick and easy to buy a rig from a local dealer if possible, but later when ya need replacement parts only a few of the dealers carry much inventory on the shelf. Pretty much they include Crawfords, Holapaw Gene, Wagners, Triquest and Heindl to name most but not all. Many of us deal pretty much with whichever "stocking" dealer has the stuff we need at the time. I haven't had any opportunity to do any trade with the new dealer in northern Illinois, so I can't give any insight. I have heard from a couple folks that this shop should be just fine to deal with. Good luck with your purchase. kermitski
  21. Looks like a BC bike. CMSI early 750 version, not an IMWA engine. Do not suppose that this engine is " better " than a late version 650, cuz it ain't except in ONE area which is the crank shaft ... Them valve covers have GOT to get fixed though..... Nuthin wrong with them as a solo bike ridden within their operational envelope. A nice sporty ride. I'm thinkin that you would have to do a quick check on the FD ratio cuz there is no other way to know for sure which gear set is in the FD. The BC and most Deco models came with 18" wheels and MOST of the time they had solo 3.89 gears in the FD. That gearbox in '02 was still the same as used on previous models with the higher numerical 3rd and 4th gears. The BC would have a reverse gear lever. Pretty nifty to have on a solo bike, but be careful or you'll be diggin gravel out of yer butt .... ;-) kermitski
  22. When ya pull the driveshaft you COULD just leave the output yoke on the FD I suppose.... but it's easier to take it all off and just seal up the bearings with a small disk of plastic or wood or whatever bolted to the flange. Note that ya do not have a sidestand and the seat is tall. The centerstand is difficult to operate when the pipes are hot, etc.... Can be a handfull to get off of and parked, but it will RIDE just peachy. Rather sporty actually . ;-) kermitski
  23. Most indoor ranges around me don't cater to black powder guns. They have this tendency to set the range floor on fire from burning crud and stuff which seems to upset em ..... Sometimes they have no sense of humor on this issue .... :-)) kermitski
  24. If the FD was run dry, then there is going to be SOME damage inside. The FD is the hardest working part of the rig IMHO. But, it might not be all that bad. Extract the stud and replace. If ya can't get it out from the outside and have to open the cover then you can see what is up inside and replace the parts if yer into that sort of bidness. Just be careful to not damage the case. A 2WD FD isn't quite as simple as a single wheel FD. But it ain't rocket surgery I suppose either. The least expensive way is usually to do it yourself with new parts. The drain plug will always have a bit of "dust" sized stuff on it. Normal wear. If you have chunks, or larger fines and also stuff floating in the drained oil... then ya gots issues. If you can get a currently rebuilt FD from a good source for that price I would buy it and then rebuild your old FD whilst ya go fer a nice ride.... New has no real advantage over rebuilt, depending on who did the rebuild I suppose. Often it will work better than a factory new unit cuz the parts will have been more carefully put together. You can flush the FD with motor oil, but don't be all that surprised when ya get BLACK lube comin out for several oil changes after that. The two products mixing a bit causes the black stuff from what I've been told. It just LOOKS awful but isn't really a problem. I always have used 130ML of gear oil and 5 ML or so of Lucas or Hyperlube additive in the FD. This seems to work for me but YMMV.... Welcome to the FOIL. Have FUN and ride SAFE. kermitski
  25. Every rig has little differences in how it's put together with various tolerances. On my own Patrol I can not install the FD into the swingarm with the cross shaft installed. I always remove the cross shaft yoke from the output flange, removing the two small drilled bolts that hold the inboard yoke to the FD after cutting the safety wire. I can then easily rotate and pull the yoke / shaft out of the way and then remove the FD. Mine is sometimes but not always difficult to re-install. I just tweak the driveshaft joint to where it most closely lines up with the forward pins and the FD is as far to the right side and below the swingarm loop. I can then usually lift up and pry a bit whilst pushing on the driveshaft and it will pop into place like a cork into a bottle. I've never had to remove the forward stud though, and never had to loosen the swingarm .... which is what many of the later version rigs seem to want done. If you are doing this alone, it is often helpful to put the FD on a jack to help hold it's position as you fiddle and tweak it into position. Be careful to not pull the rig off of the center stand and drop it on YOU. It's easiest to jack up the rig and put jack stands under the bike frame forward of the center stand hinge point with the stand DOWN . I just put a board under the pipes and lift the thing with the pipes usually. Place another jack stand under the outboard lower hack frame tube. That way you can rotate the cross shaft and jerk around on the yokes without problems. Ya can't hardly do ANYTHING on a Ural without a properly sized pry bar, BFH, cheater pipe, etc..... No rocket surgery involved though. When the FD and shaft get aligned just right they will go together without boogering up the forward mounting stud threads. If your rig is too tight, then loosen the swing arm pivots and yer good to go. YMMV AFAIK etc kermitski
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