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Vestgote

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About Vestgote

  • Birthday 04/22/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sweden, Malmö mostly...
  • Interests
    jazz, 60 & 70's rock/pop/psychadelia, filosofy, art, beer (Brittish or "Tjeckish" mostly), vintage motorcycles... that about wraps it up...

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    Dnepr MT-9 -73
  • My Story
    Not much of a story. I bought the bike in the fall of 2005 for 8500 swedish crowns (about 1000 USD). It's badly handpainted, has a busted second gear in the gearbox and a broken generator and loose wires everywhere... but I will make it shine if it's the last thing I'll ever do... =)

Vestgote's Achievements

Russian Bike Nut

Russian Bike Nut (3/3)

  1. Is this the speedo drive I´m supposed to get? http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-Royal-Enfield-Bullet-SPEEDOMETER-SPEEDO-GEAR-/311261611855?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4878a3474f&vxp=mtr
  2. Access to lathe is not a problem. I´m trying to find the "message" button but I cannot find it. How do I go about sending a pm?
  3. Yes, it has been nine years since I first bought the Dnepr and cluelessly stepped in to world of mechanics and tried to do a VW-engine conversion. It worked to, but it has taken a lot of doing and redoing and throwing away cash on things you don't need due to lack of knowledge. This Royal Enfield speedo thing sounds like fun. Do you mean that the Enfield speedo worm gear assembly will fit to the back wheel on the final drive side? This sounds a bit strange. Do you have any pictures of this setup?
  4. Yes, I´m currently fixing the electronic ignition. The speedometer is the only thing left that could pose some problem. I got occupied with customizing my Yamaha XV750, making it look so that I wanted to actually ride the thing. In the end realized that I wouldn´t matter how much time I spent on Yamaha; It would still look like crap. So I decided to sell it and concentrate my effort on finishing the Dnepr. The problem is that when a project span over 9 years, you tend to shift views on how things should be done, so the Dnepr looks completely different now from when I started. But since I´m a more competent mechanic now things are also much better and nicer. I has taken alot of time redoing things though. Hmm, I didn't think of the fact that since the drive mechanism is on the output shaft you need a different speedo depending on the final drive ratio. But of course that's true. I have a solo final drive ratio by the way. Here's a short video of a start up a few weeks ago:
  5. Hi, Does anyone know what ratio the Dnepr MT-9 speedometer has? I´m not going to use the big headlight and need to replace my speedometer with something else, and I want a mechanical one. I used a cheap chinese speedometer on my Yamaha, the quality was low but it did the job. The ratio on that one was "60 km/h=1400 rpm". Are there any similar specs on the Dnepr/Ural ones? Thanks //Nils
  6. Being no expert in torque settings for different bikes, isn't the torque setting for the steering head nut based on what type of bearing you're using? Conical bearings require a certain amount of tension to work properly while ball bearings shouldn't be tightened as much. Maybe you can find out in the specs for the bearing. I wouldn't go for FT since you can damage the bearings. I would buy a large socket that fits the nut and weld that onto a smaller socket that fits your torque wrench.
  7. Great! Thanks for the info. But if I want to buy new sync gears, are there different gears for the different positions? Or can I just buy three of the same kind? The problem was that when I assembled the gearbox, I sanded the woodruff keys and the inner diameter of the sync gears just to get the onto the axle. Which was stupid...
  8. on the other hand, every one of the listed woodruff keys seem a bit small. The biggest is only 6 mm long. Are the pinion gears, syncronization gears, or whatever they're called, interchangeable between gear positions?
  9. Hi everybody! I´m in need of tearing down my MT9 gearbox and changing woodruff keys and pinion gears (that's what I think they're called). The offending gear is better described by picture: gear in question I usually order from Ural Zentralen, but they have different dimensions on their woodruff keys and I'm not in a position where I can measure the ones in my gearbox. Does any one know which one of these would be suitable? Woodruff keys Best regards //Nils
  10. Hi everyone! It's been a long time since my last update, the reason for this is that I've moved to Gothenburg and started studying mechanical engineering. This eats up a lot of time, and I still have to travel by buss for 5 hours to get to my bike project. Last time I was here, the forum looked completely different. Anyway, this is what I´ve done: I manufactured new footpegs. These will "flex" if I should lean to much in a corner. It is not very likely that this should happen, but I did it anyway because I liked to. I bought a suzuki savage carb from a motorcycle scrap yard. The old one I had was too small. I also had to grind and weld the underside of the petrol tank to make it fit. I emptied the tank and filled it up with water first, wich is quite important. Last year I had to take away som material on the front brake drum to make sure that the front wheel would line up with the pusher. This left a gap between the fork leg and the brake drum. I filled this up with JB weld. I fitted a brake light switch for the front brake. I manufactured my own brake wire nipple for the brake lever and welded a nut on the underside of it. This allowed me to attach the switch. I looking for a shorter spring so the there will be a straight pull instead of an angled one. I made a braket and attached the coil pack for the Ford Edis ignition system. Manufactured a box for the Edis electronics. I sanded both brake drums to make them slightly more round A rubber kick stop to prevent the kicker to mash up the paint. And then the last piece of business wich was a trubbeling one: Some of you might know that I threw out the VW distributor because it wouldn't fit in my frame, and fitted a Ford elctrical distributorless ignition system (Edis). I did not however remove the shaft wich rotates the old distributor, because I couldn´t get it out of the case. I thought that It would only rotate anyway and thusly wouln't cause any trouble. I was wrong. The first time I started the bike I thought the kick starter was very heavy, especially since It only has a 6.6:1 compression ration, and when the bike started we heard a slight wining sound from the engine, wich died out a minute or two later. Then next time I kicked the bike over, It was slightly easier, but still a bit rough. A few weeks later when I was about to lift the engine out of the frame, I removed the cover I made for the distributor hole in the crank case, and was met by quite a lot of shine brass crud. It seems that the distributor shaft had jammed in the case, and when we started the bike, the brass worm gear on the crank shaft wich drives the distributor had been completely torn apart, spreading brass shavings everywhere. This pissed me off. I was determined to get the shaft out of there by any means possible. So I took a long bolt, inserted it in the hole in the case, and whacked it with a big mallet, jamming the bolt in the shaft wich could then be pulled out. I've washed the inside of the case with diesel and changed oil. I'm not in the mood for tearing the engine apart just yet. Also, I´ve done heaps of little thins, like readjusting the seat, fitted new risers, fitting the speedometer. I´ve also began manufacturing a new inlet manifold to fit the new carb, but that's not finished yet. I´ve bought new mufflers and made a muffled air cleaner box so the bike will pass inspection.
  11. With my next bike project I would definitly start from scratch. Buying the engine, gearbox and so forth and building/moding the frame over it. It´s just easier to know what to do and plan when you´re starting from scratch. Having two thirds of a bike lying everywhere and you´re not sure what to keep and what to use is just messy. And going to swapmeets and trying to get cheap parts is part of the fun too.
  12. Yes, the exhaust valve will open just before it reaches the bottom and turns up again. But as you said, there´s preassure inside the cylinder caused by the expanding gases that will flow out through the exhaust port if everything is set up correctly. You do not want the piston to push the gases out of the cylinder, that way you loose effekt. The gases then pulsates back and forth through the exhaust pipe before it leaves the pipe all together. That however should not cause any noticable suction. The suction is most likely caused by the exhaust valve being open during the intake stroke. And the air is then being blown out the exhaust port again by the stuck valve. That the bike worked just a few weeks ago doesn´t mean anything. It might just be that the bike worked perfectly until the valve mechanism turned to bits and pieces.
  13. Take the valve covers off and see if there´s something wrong. Could be that the exhaust valve has jammed open somehow. You could take out the spark plug, put your thumb against the spark plug hole and slowly turn it over with the kick starter. If you have compression you´ll feel it. If you don´t have any compression there´s probably something wrong with the valves.
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