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csbdr

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Everything posted by csbdr

  1. hey all! i have one extra set of the 3 piece back patches for sale. Just never put them on anything. Same price as originally posted; $30 plus shipping.
  2. How about a before and after pic. I'd love to see the difference.
  3. Need a new right head. Intake valve seat dropped out.....
  4. Sorry to hear you got hosed. I would never buy something big off ebay unless it was a local car/bike which I could go see. Too risky. I use ebay/paypal for small stuff and have had no problems, but I'm careful. Read the feedback, etc. Still a risk.
  5. Pulled the plug caps and the right one was full of gunk (it's gonna really pi$$ me off if it was this all along). Cleaned it out and clipped about a quarter inch off to get a good contact. Now it won't reach (dammit!) Forces me to replace the wires and might as well do the caps as well. Unfortunately I don't have any, so I'm stuck. Aside from a 5 ohm cap, what type of plug wires do you guys prefer? These were copper core.
  6. I have fresh gas. I mentioned that I had it running fine after storage. I actually used it to commute a COUPLE DAYS. I had it start to lose power once about a block from work, but think that was a fuel flow issue. I let it sit and by the end of the day it was fine. Air bubble or something in the line? I dunno. Rode it home that day and parked it. Came out a coup0le days later to ride and was doing this, and has been ever since. OK, I'm stumped. I checked the interrupter and it was fine. I replaced it anyway since I was there, and reset the timing, but no different. New plugs. clean air filter. clean jets and carb, intact diaphragm. Valves set correctly. Plug wires snug into caps (haven't tried replacing yet) No corrosion on the wire contacts. Plastic cover over ignition (Type V) so no arcing possible. Anyone have any other ideas?
  7. AH! Shoulda remembered to look there first! Thanks Bill. I'm going to go ahead and replace the darned thing, now that I have it open anyway.
  8. OK, new plugs, no better. Pulled the front cover and I have a question. I want to check the integrity of the 2 piece interruptor. I am looking at a disc with a slot/screw on opposite sides, and a bracket with a connector to the ignition puck. What do I do from here to get to the rotor/interruptor? Any dos/don'ts, for "god sake make sure you do this or you'll muck it up" kind of things?
  9. I had the battery tested at the beginning of the season, when I first got it out of storage, and NAPA guy told me it was good. I'm game for replacing it, just to see. Still cheaper than a trip to the shop. Reads a full charge though. Well,pulled the diaphragms on both sides and no tears/holes, everything clean as a whistle. What about the 2 piece, swaged timing rotor/interrupter everyone laments? What are the symptoms of that failing?
  10. Yup, thats the one. has around 29500 on it now and I replaced the type IV with a type V a couple years ago.. I don't have any type of timing light, and wouldn't know how to use it if I did. I have learned alot, but haven't been into this issue yet ....lets say the type V hockey puck was crapping out and not advancing when given throttle. has anyone had theirs fail? what did it do to how the bike ran? How do I dx this?
  11. i was thinking....since gas has gone to 10% ethanol, I've had several rubber bits rot away and fail on a couple bikes. If the original diaphragm is in these carbs (and i presume so) and has been damaged/cracked/hole from ethanol, would that cause what I am getting?
  12. Thanks guys! But let me reiterate...The carbs have been disassembled and cleaned. Each jet has been removed, wire run through it, and everythings been shot with carb cleaner (although overall it was pretty clean except for the rt main). I wasn't clear above, but I did that with each jet, checked that the floats were working properly, etc. I didn't take apart the top part of the carbs and remove the diaphragm, but I didn't see any need to do this. I don't think fuel flow is the issue, but I'll try running it without the gas cap. Any other thoughts?
  13. I took the bike out of storage and had it running. Ran it around a bit and parked it a few days. run wasn't bad. Had one episode of losing power, like it was on one cylinder, or one wasn't getting any gas. I looked down and seemed that one fuel filter was empty (I know, but it helps me...) but after sitting for the day at work it ran back home without incident. Anyway, so I came back to it and started the bike up and it's idling fine, but if I crack the throttle at all it wants to shake, bog, and die. So I ran through what I know....cleaned the air filter and re oiled it, reset the valves (right intake was off...) synced the carbs aT IDLE. At one point while doing this I cracked the throttle and the bike came ROARING back to life, so made sure the carbs were synced off idle as well, but it didn't last long. This happens sometimes in the mornings. Will be really weak running under throttle for a short distance, then it leaps forward under full power and is fine for the rest of the day....and not every morning either. Anyway, I also took the carbs off and dropped the bowls. Both clean but the right main jet had a goober blocking the jet end. Hooray! Found the problem (I thought...) I unscrewed it and found some varnish at the threads so cleaned every thing out with carb cleaner and put it all back together. Started up and same as before. Idles fine, but as soon as I crack the throttle it starts to thump and carry on, and will die out. So now what...any ideas? I was wondering if there is a problem with the throttle cables, but I can't tell what to look at or if this is even the issue. Dont seem to be hanging up anywhere. Thoughts?
  14. That's the first time I've heard of anyone getting any real grief. Glad it didn't turn ugly for you. I occasionally stop into a joint here called "the sawmill"...similar crowd...and have chosen to leave my jacket in the hack before I go in. Noone's ever given me any grief that way. Personally, I think having "motorcycle club" written out in cyrillic lettering would be cool, and hard for anyone to give you ###### over
  15. I was wondering if anyone has found a good replacement for the older Ural fuel taps. My 02 has a male threaded bung welded to the tank, which the tap screws onto. As far as I can tell from the old thread, the Yamaha tap replacement will not work. I am having fuel flow issues to the right side in particular. Today I ran to work and was within a block and the right side dramatically lost power.. I looked down at my clear fuel filter (I know, but this is a case where it came in handy) and it was bone dry. Starving the right jug. I thought I had this licked when I cleaned and coated the inside of the tank last summer. So I'm going to try to blow out the line, but want to really address the issue if I can. I know I may have crud again after sitting for the winter (I did use stabilizer). I filled up this morning so probably stirred up some junk. i though using POR15 on the inside would have taken care of that. I was real carefule to get it all coated. I'm thinking a better flowing tap can't hurt. Any sources?
  16. Geez! I have to just "keep it simple, stupid!" 1 wire off....I rechecked the wiring diagram and found I had put 1 little black wire on the negative terminal instead of the positive. :thumbsup!: Lit right up once I switched it to where it belongs. See...told ya I was no genius!
  17. Thanks Vance! I actually followed ALL of that. I'll check it all out and report back.
  18. Rats! OK, went to get the rig up and running for the season and have no power. Nothing happening. No lights, horn, starter, nothingness. Battery is confirmed good with 12.8V on the meter, and will run aftermarket spotlight which comes directly off the battery with no relay (I know, I'll get to it...). Here's what I've done so far... BTW, 2002 Tourist and all was well when I put it away. Cold but indoor storage for the winter. Bike was covered 1. replaced the fuse in line to the fuse panel (barrel fuse behind the headlamp bucket) - nothing 2. checked and replaced 15A blade fuse previous owner added in same circuit (nothing) 3. checked the ground cutoff switch - in correct position to run bike 4. removed cutoff switch and filed all contact points on bracket and frame - have to reassemble yet. It got dark 5. tried to bypass the switch by running the ground wire directly from the battery to the bare metal exposed on the frame - nothing 6. meter shows juice running to the starter motor 7. could NOT find juice running to the cutoff switch - don't know if there should be or not? Anyway, any suggestions? I am wondering if my ignition switch would do this if it went bad? How do I test this with a multimeter? Mind, I am an electrical numb-nut. Don't presume I even know how to use my meter right, type slowly, and use small words.... Thanks guys!
  19. csbdr

    Seat

    I know some folks have put on Harley seats obtained off ebay, but I can't remember who.
  20. I had the exact same bounce in the front end on mine. Drove me NUTS!! tried beads, new shocks, everything. It was bad enough that it prevented going much over 50mph. I just by chance got a flat on the SIDECAR (nope, not a planned out flat...) and changed the wheel for the spare. guess what?.....wait for it..... Ok, you probably predicted the bounce went away. I was dumfounded that a wonky sidecar rim would cause a literal BOUNCE in the front end of the bike, but it did. Check it out. It's the only thing which fixed it for me. Rig rides smooth as silk now!
  21. Runs fine, but watch your fuel lines. The stuff rotted my rubber lines in 1 season, on 2 different bikes. HAD TO REPLACE THEM (oops....) with resistant lines.
  22. I own one of these and they are AWESOME!!! Totally different bike from the previous models. RE hit a home run!
  23. i dunno about the first part, but what about adding bar-end weights? They would extend your bars about an inch.
  24. Mr Cob just happens to be testing the same displacement for IMWA right now. Not the raceway product, but same ballpark... has gotten some stunning results so far.... http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtop...403&start=0
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