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mhadad

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne, FL USA

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  • My Bike(s)
    1959 Dneper K-750

mhadad's Achievements

Russian Bike Nut

Russian Bike Nut (3/3)

  1. I've been looking around for a Ural 750 engine. Anybody got any ideas where to go?
  2. A ongoing quest of mine has been to locate a Ural 750 engine to install in a Chang Jiang bike I have. I've inquired here a couple of times through the years about locating a engine. Last time was 2 years ago. Well the bug is still there and I have been searching recently. Not much luck. A couple of Ebay things but from overseas with big shipping costs. My main interest is the engine and alternator. Got carbs and transmissions. Anyone got any ideas where to locate this beast? A wrecked bike with a running engine would be a great option
  3. Thanks Teg. Thought I heard Gene at Holopaw had died a while back, hope that was incorrect. The web site doesn't appear to be up. I will take a drive out that way soon.
  4. Hi everyone, I haven't been around here in a while. Got busy and my motorcycle projects got put to rest for a while. Anyway I have a flathead CJ I was looking to install a Ural OHV 750 on. I was looking to do this a few years ago but had a hard time finding a engine. Every once and a while I poke into it and don't find one. Looked around today, saw a couple on Ebay in Russia that didn't excite me. Anyone know where to find a engine?
  5. Hi, just wondering if anybody has any input on how to get a Ural 750 engine? I have been looking around the internet from time to time with no luck. At one time I saw one on Crawfords website but it was sold.
  6. Have you tried just hooking 12 volts up to it just to see what happens? I don't know, just throwing it out there.
  7. I know the oil thing has been worn out here numerous times over the years. But something to think about here is the fact that theses engines are based on 1930's technology. The flat head engines are based on 1930's BMW engines and the OHV is not that far away. I've never looked into when multigrade oils were first preduced, but I would bet it was well after the 1930's. As far as the oil leak which started this whole conversation, probably the crank shaft seal.
  8. mhadad

    Head bolts

    I would definately leave it alone if the bikes running ok. I would assume the gaskets have been compressed and backing off would result in leaks and the need to replace the gaskets. As far as possible thread damage, it would be done already probably. Bike runs good? Let er be.
  9. Well said Penning. I still need to figure out how to get a Chang front fork on your bike!
  10. Great Job! I understand the safety concern, but I would HAVE to go with a Chang front fork for the more correct look. Also the BMW R-75 appears to be a hard tail bike. If you have any welding and fabrication skills you could really take this project to the next level!
  11. Been out of town a while. Seems like some say my troubleshooting ways result in unusable data yet I used the data to find the problem. Unusable data? People like Wooden Nickle get hooked up on the thing that the ohm meter cannot be used on a live circuit. I know you can blow the meter fuse testing ohms on a hot circuit. My fuse did not blow. Mr Nickle can't accept the fact stated that I had 12 volts then I had 0, thus not a live curcit. As far as the ohm readings go, I know a hot to ground reading should be open. With battery connected all hots were grounded with the 0 volt reading. With a battery lead disconnected no hot terminals were grounded. Pretty much a no-brainer that there must be a battery issue going on. I pretty much knew that before my original posting. Just wanted to see what people would come up with.
  12. I've read the comments. If anybody paid attention to the original posting on this topic it was stated that at one moment there was 12 volts at the ignition switch hot wire. At another moment 0 volts. I left out the obvious fact to check the battery voltage before going to the ignition switch. The battery tested out at 12 volts before proceeding to check the fuses, which in my bike is in the headlight. Those were good which then lead me to check the voltage at the ignition switch. At one moment there was 0 volts. I rechecked and there was 12 volts. I turned the bike on and there was nothing. Turned the bike off, 0 volts. Then shot up to 12 volts which fell back to 0. Rechecking at the battery confirmed 0 volts. At this time, with a reading of 0 volts at any hot conection, I decided to check resistance from ignition hot post to ground, which indicated a short or 0 ohms. I have made the mistake of taking a resistance reading on a hot circuit in the past and yes, it will blow the fuse. Seeing how that did not happen I would conclude I was not checking a hot circuit even tho the battery was still connected. That being said, the process of elimination lead me to the battery. While maybe not a "conventional" way to get to the problem based on what I've read in postings above, it worked. What would Ivan do?
  13. Basic electicity says that the hot side (positive) of a electical system is to be seperated from the ground side (negative). Typically the negative terminal of the battery is wired to the frame of the bike, known as "ground" while the positive terminal of the battery is wired to the alternator, fuse panel, ignition switch, ect. A resistance (ohms) reading between the frame and a "hot" terminal of any electrical device on the bike should read open (a big number). A zero reading indicates a short. A situation where the insullation of a hot wire got worn though and is in contact with the frame or something. Anyway my bike fired right up and I rode it to the driveway. A little while later I went back out to leave. I puched the horn botton before starting the bike. The horn didn't sound right. I tried to start the bike, no go. No lights would come on, horn dead. I figured maybe the horn is bad and blew a fuse. The bike is simply wired with 2 fuses inside the head light. I opened the head light and fuses were good. The bike has a cable from battery + to a terminal on the alternator. Theres another wire from the alternator to a fuse in the head light, to the hot input on the ignition switch. I checked the fuses and they were good. At that point I figured there should be a 12 volt reading at the hot input to the ignition switch. It was 0 vols. Then I thought maybe the switch is faulty and grounded out. I removed it from the head light leaving the wires intact. A ohms reading to the hot supply wire was still 0. At that point I disconnected the switch hot wire and it still read 0 ohms. The next step would be to work back an that hot wire. The other end is attached to the alternator. A resistance readind between the alternator post to ground was 0. Disconnecting the wires from the alternator I found the wire to battery to read 0. The only thing left was the battery itself. 0 ohms between the battery terminals. A short.
  14. Thanks for the input all. I have been out of town since I posted this subject. I confirmed my original troubleshooting conclusion outlined in the original posting today. Bottom line is the fact that a resistance (ohms) reading between a positive and negative should read infinity or very high. I toubleshoot a short, 0, or very low resistence reading on my bike down to the battery. The battery reads a short between positive and negative terminals. Today I tested the ohms reading between the positve and negative terminals on a proven good battery. It was a open, or high ohms. My new battery is on order.
  15. My bike developed a problem today. It has been 2 weeks since I last ran the bike. Normally that amount of time is no problem. The bike fired right up and I drove it from the shed to the drive way. All lights appeard normal. About a half hour later I went back out to start it up to introduce a new female involved in my life with side car riding, and much to my dismay the bike done nothing. No start, no horn, no lights. Fuses checked out O.K. Various multi-meter testing came up with some strange readings such as at one moment I find 12 volts on the hot wire at the ignition switch and at another moment there is 0 volts. I found a resistence reading of 0 ohms on the same wire when checked to ground, indicating a short. I disconnected the wire from the ignition switch and the wire still indicated a short. I worked back disconnecting wires and finding short readings until I got to the last positive wire being disconnected from the battery and the reading between the positive and negative terminals of the battery was 0 ohms. I assumed the battery must be bad and took it off and went to get another. Stopping at a Auto Zone, I took the battery in to be tested just to make shure before buying the new battery. The 2 guys working there were the most unhelpful people I have ever delt with in a auto parts store. They apparently can't test a battery and say if its good or bad like they advertise they can do. And like they have done before. One was even aragant. I decided not to buy a new battery from Auto Zone. Anyway the battery shows different voltages from time to time and shows a short between the terminals and is probably bad but decided I would post this just in case there may be something I don't know or overlooked. Any input? Also I wanted to bust Auto Zones balls for being the latest most usless retailer in my life. I will go out of my way for now on to use another company. Sears pissed me off in 1987 and I have only bought one item from that company since, and that was due to lack of options in that particular situation, not because I wanted to.
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