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About uraltourist

  • Birthday 09/24/1956

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    Southern California - USA

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  • My Bike(s)
    Unknown year MT16 Dnepr 2002 BMW R1150RT 1977 BMW R100/7 1990 FLHS

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Russian Bike Nut

Russian Bike Nut (3/3)

  1. Here is a set of 4 complete spoke sets - Enough to do your whole bike including the spare. These are for the Aluminum Dnepr wheels only.... $50 takes them $15.00 gets them shipped anywhere in the USA. mlcfry@hotmail.com
  2. Up for Sale is my Dnepr MT16 - 2 Wheel Drive sidecar. It is really much better than a new Ural in a lot of ways. Then there is the cool factor. The bike has been part of the family for a long time, I will likely regret selling it. I purchased it with 25 Kilometers on the clock in 2009. I replaced the speedo when I did the conversion, it reads 3,300km. It is registered as a 1964 and has a 1978 BMW R100rt motor. The title is clear, current and has a North Carolina Antique Plate The VIN is a California "Blue Tag", making it as easy to register as any other vehicle. I am turning 65 soon and moving most of the year to Europe. That said, a few life changes are going on, including selling a bike or two. This Bike is a full time 2 wheel drive (like a car and unlike the Ural locker type) and goes off road to places you wouldn’t think it could go. The BMW conversion is common in Europe and well proven. The motor is electric start, fires right up and runs great. A few of the Upgrades to this bike 1,000 CC BMW R100RT motor, I lowered the compression (shims under the cylinders) for better low end and the ability to run low octane gas. Check what the motor alone is worth, if you can find one.... I have only run no ethanol fuel in the bike from day one. It has hardened valve seats and puts out double the power of the old Soviet motor. It is a big valve engine with 40mm Bing carburetors. As is common practice with this conversion, there is a BMW /2 clutch disc, it doesn’t slip. There is a heavy duty fiber reinforced rubber donut on the driveshaft, designed specifically for the bigger motor. The Dnepr 804 trans is widely regarded as the most robust of the Russian Gearboxes, it has been modified with a lower 1st and a higher 4th gear ratio, the bearings are all Timken or SKF. It has good low end power and easily runs up to speed. Electronic ignition; it retains points and the auto advance mechanism. The dodgy Soviet wiring harness has been replaced, all connectors are soldered and shrink tubed. There are 30amp relays controlling the starting and headlight circuits. The headlight is a 55/100 Hella bulb and lights up the road as well as a modern bike. There is a full size car battery in the trunk. Front Disc Brake – the drums were OK 50 years ago in the Soviet Union; they were unsafe on American roads. I used a large piston Honda Type Master Cylinder, retained the Leading Link front end (for easy steering) and installed a double caliper disc setup. It stops really well now. All the U Joints were replaced a couple of years ago. Comes with lots of extra parts, gaskets and filters. Tires will last another season; they are Duro and a Kenda knobby as a spare for dirt work. All wheels are interchangeable on the bike. This thing is a hoot to ride, it goes in the snow and the mountains with ease, everyone wants to go for a ride. There are few motorcycles I have owned that faithfully give me the grins, this is one of them. I also have a full size trailer that fits the bike, that I will Sell for $250 if you buy the bike. $8000 mlcfry@hotmail.com
  3. The post 1975 crankshafts are all the same part number. The difference is the pacers and the flywheels themselves. I have a 1978 motor on my bench right now that was converted to the lighter flywheel....
  4. The post 1981 BMW motors can easily be converted to the earlier flywheel. If doing the conversion be sure you get a later (78-80) 111 tooth flywheel as it will fit your 9 tooth starter. New bolts and main seal and you are done. Used clutch packs are cheap on flea bay. Don't waste your time modifying a clutch disc, a /2 disc drops right in... Ya gotta love BMW Airhead motors....
  5. Be sure it is in the neutral between 1st and 2nd gear - it won't move otherwise.
  6. Looks like one of the Vostok bikes that were sold off when Mitch closed the shop. I own an MT16 from him in the same color. Mine had a bad lifter and a ruined cam when I got it. Cheap enough to fix and it was a good opportunity to get to know about the bike. My bike was assembled from a mix of parts, (a lot were defective in some way) with no attention to any particular year or model. Don't worry about the year, get it running and have fun...
  7. After deliberating for a year and getting stuck again out in the middle of nowhere, I am finally about ready start work on dropping my newly rebuilt BMW R100 motor in the old MT16. I pretty much have all the necessary parts, including a mating ring, but need to have the mounting tabs welded and reworked on the gearbox case. I have a stripped gearbox case to send out....and an empty BMW motor case for reference, if necessary. Any suggestions on somebody to do the aluminum welding in the US? Preferably on the West Coast... Thanks!
  8. The pictures from January are of my bike.... Any shop selling British bikes will have access to the manifolds. They were $25 US each. Your local BMW dealer will have the cables and rubber parts. Plan on a rebuild for the carbs if they have been sitting a while or out in the weather. At a minimum, replace he rubber diaphragms. Don't cheap out, buy the BMW hose clamps, they are the correct width and size. Still starts first kick and is running great...but still lacks the power needed for serious off road riding. This winter I am replacing the motor with my spare BMW R100 engine...
  9. +1 on the Denso adapter for the Dnepr. 2 years and 15,000 km since install - no issues of any kind. When your RPOC 424 alternator dies, (not if) spend the $ and go with the German adapter for the Denso.
  10. I was concerned about end play as well, but there has not been any significant amount, at least on my motor.
  11. I have done quite a lot of business with Ben over the last couple of years. He has always been easy to work with and has some really great parts at cheap prices. Most notably, the PM05 Ignition parts, rubber seats and stainless handlebars with inverted levers are of outstanding quality. They fit Russian bikes perfectly. Good Luck on E-Bay Ben!
  12. When I rebuilt my MT16 last year, the parts guy in the Ukraine suggested installing roller bearings front and rear. He said it was common practice over there. I was somewhat skeptical, but figured he knew what he was doing. 3,000 hard miles on the motor so far without any issue. I would be curious to hear if anyone else has done this as well. Those big roller bearings are really expensive for Western quality ones however...
  13. USPS is pretty cheap compared to the other options, even DHL was over $200usd.....
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