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    U.K. - Gloucestershire

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  • My Bike(s)
    Ural M62 @ 1962 BMW R100/7 1978 Royal Enfield Army 2004

madoc's Achievements

Russian Bike Nut

Russian Bike Nut (3/3)

  1. well yes. But on a short frame K750, there isn't enough space between gearbox and swingarm to get out/ extract the drive shaft fork and/or rubber coupling. I had to unbolt the engine, on a jack, and move it forward enough .... I just wondered if that is the only way to do it ... i.e. should the short frame K750 have a smaller drive shaft fork, which can be moved through the loop in the swingarm
  2. The bike stopping/stalling and the kickstarter failing to engage could be unrelated? If rolling the bike forward, in gear, turns the engine over then that proves connection between the rear wheel>final drive>gearbox>clutch>engine. I assume that if you disengage the clutch, i.e. pull in the clutch lever, that this connection is "lost" (which is what should happen, as the clutch joins the engine to gearbox..) I haven't ever had a russian gearbox in bits (yet) to diagnose whether the kickstart can become disengaged .... I know it can happen in other (early british ) gearboxes I have dismantled.
  3. Is it possible to change the rubber coupling on a short frame k750, without moving the engine forward ? I needed to change the clutch, a few days back, and I couldn't get the coupling off to move the gearbox off it's mounting studs. I had to unbolt the engine and everything, and move it forward on a jack to get an inch or two clearance to get it off/back on. It led me to wondering if it should be possible to change that rubber doughnut, without messing with moving everything else ... if the forked end, on the end of the drive shaft, were smaller it would go through the hole in the swingarm ....
  4. The voltage produced is governed by the number of turns of wire on the armature, the magnetic field developed in the field coil and the rotational speed of the armature, which is set by the engine speed. I have never open tested a russian generator. I have tested equivalent Lucas dynamos (which are a very similar size and output) and they will easily exceed 15v, only a little above a fast idle and will go beyond that. If the russian generators are really producing a far lower ouput than their Lucas equivalent, then I guess this is possible, without burnt out bulbs or overcharged batteries. I think I need to test this out,
  5. I have a 6v 1960 K750 nearing completion, which I want to run on 12v. I've always used a 12v harley electronic regulator, but given it's a few years since last I bought one I now find they have been superceded (no problem) with something far, far, far more expensive (big problem) I can get mechanical bosch ones (or the elctronic equivalent ) for VW's etc but they are bulky. Ideally I wanted one to fit in the old russian mechanical reg box Anyone using something like this ?
  6. I looked at the parts diagram and I think four need to go in ? http://www.henriksso...c06599cb9c7.jpg However, only Three came out .
  7. Been in contact with Rich, who has similar issues. We have exchanged paypal escalation numbers I have phoned up paypal this morning to report all this. I am not teh first- This seller has, apparantly, multiple open cases against him (they wouldn't tell me exactly how many) but his account is on hold. They urged me to ask anyone who currently has a dealings with him, over paypal, and doesn't have their goods to contact them. Unfortunately, my case needs to follow process anyway.
  8. I got done. I am trying to get my money back through paypal right now. The seller (ural timur or other names ie. Isaav gos or Isayev Teimuraz) is claiming to paypal that he shipped my parts on a vehicle. I hope I get my money back, through paypal, as it's quite a bit. Would anyone be prepared to help support me, if I need it ? I am very worried that Paypal will not find in my favour and it may help to be able to provide evidence of other people who also got scammed.
  9. Not yet. It's pretty bad. Do you still have this ?
  10. Has anyone else dealt with timur iseav ? I just added a response to a previous thread in another topic area.
  11. You don't need much (attached) I assume you have points - if not then you may have to add power to the Electronic ignition module., depending. If your battery drops to that little, when just turning on the switch (and I assume you are just talking about the ignition switch and not hitting the start button) then it sounds like it's putting the current into a dead short somewhere. Just turning on the ignition switch should result in a couple of volts drop, just through powering the ignition circuit. Unless your battery is really, really screwed and even a small power draw kills it - which may explain your later post about not being able to jump the starter. Of course, your starter could also be the culprit and be locked solid. I'd jump in my car battery to the bike battery first - just as you would jump starting a car - and see what happens (ideally you would disconnect your bike battery and jump the car battery straight to the bike battery terminals which are now hanging loose). This will eliminate your bike battery as the culprit You don't need to run it, just turn on the bike and hit the starter and see what happens. Without seeing the circuit diagram it's hard to know eaxcly how power is routed around the bike ( you mention a non standard cut off switch for example) If the fuses aren't popping then you can likely eliminate any of those circuits as the culprit and as the power drop only occurs when you turn on the ignition then it's not between switch and battery.
  12. The oil slinger is internal - the crank needs to come out and this is my primary reason for considering a complete engine strip. So, should my shopping list consist of: 36mm socket for the flywheel bolt ( I think I have a 36mm one !!) harmonic puller for the flywheel bolts to mount the puller (thread size anyone ?) front crank bearing 72x35x17 rear crank bearing 72x35x17 cam bearing (front)52x25x15 cam bush (rear) new felt seal for rear bearing new seal for the front crank 16x30x7 Is there a seal on front of the camshaft ? Do I need new bolts for the bearing carrier or flywheel or anything ? How about tab washers ? Don't worry, I have enough british bikes to deal with the valves. I guess I should have said clean up/lapping depending - they need to come out to check the guides.
  13. My early K750 resto. I have the frame in bits, along with the wheels and other stuff. The rear mudguard is worse than I thought and I keep looking it .... The engine itself, on the other hand, seems pretty good and unworn The speedo reads 9k km. The pistons are standard, the ring gap is well within spec and there is no wear in the barrels at all. I will get new rings and relap the valves as a matter of course. The big ends feel great, the little ends have no play, the clutch is good, as are the clutch pins, and also cam and crank gears. The bottom of the sump does have some deposits, but they all get that. I am wondering if it is really worth stripping it down to take a look at the oil slinger, which is likely pretty empty too. It's a dilemma as if I strip it that far, then I must replace the bearings with modern SKF stuff. I think I will also need: rear and front crank bearing cam bearing Some seals ? I think there is one in the back and one in the front ? I believe I will also need a big socket for the flywheel bolt and a puller ( tools for one use .. grrrr) I bought this bike really, really cheap and wanted to get it done on a budget. However the wheels, especially, are really going to knock the cost up .
  14. Luca. Not to worry - I found the info on how to tell long from short frame. I have a short frame and so my first ( and maybe only ) option is to try and repair what I have
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