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Everything posted by charlie23

  1. I don't understand this, wouldn't welding on the race expand it ?
  2. I'm trying to get the bearing races out of the down tube on an old frame. Tried the chisel/hammer routine with no luck, they're jammed in solid. Only alternative I can see is a dremel with a cutting wheel that's going to cut into the tube as well, which is something I'd like to avoid. Frame is newly painted so I'd also like to avoid direct flames, although I'm kinda dubious as to whether heat would work anyway. Any ideas ?
  3. I have a Dneprmatic box on the M72 (M61 frame), I simply cut a little off each end of a spare cardan rather than buying a new one and it works just fine. I don't know what the frame difference is between the M61/M62 but I have no problems fitting the "mushroom" filter either, although it's kind of a PITA and I prefer the simpler screen insert.
  4. yeah, it's definitely a buffer... seems a bit over-engineered though which is kind of rare on these things. While we're on the topic, do you have a center stand on your machine? I can't figure out a spring setup that doesn't leave it hanging down, and nobody I know here has one for reference- some closeup pics would be helpful. :thumbsup!:
  5. Huh ?? It's not wired to anything, at least not on the M... how would that work ? I've actually been curious about it for awhile, just not curious enough to tear a gearbox apart for no good reason.
  6. no, I'm not exactly sure what that is as there are no references to it outside of the parts list: it appears to be a shock/catch pin for the shaft (the translation reads "pin buffer embankment starter mechanism"). The wedge pin I'm referring to functions like a bolt to hold the actual kick starter lever onto the shaft. It's part #417 in the same 7204 diagram: just follow the kick lever to the shaft and unscrew the nut holding it on, you'll have to tap the pin out from the threaded end with a drift or something, and be careful to line up the flat surface with the shaft cutout when you replace it. You can't see it clearly in this picture but the pin is actually tapered, and if it wears down or works loose your kicker gets sloppy like you mentioned. I've had to replace a couple of them.
  7. I'm not aware of any adjustment mechanism for the kickstarter... There is a wedge pin with a flat surface on the inside that locks the kick lever onto the shaft, if that wears out/rotates/loosens up then you'll get slack in the lever which can cause the problem you mention. Check to see if the shaft is actually turning a full rotation with the kicker, if not the see if the pin has rotated, tighten it up or replace it.
  8. I mostly buy off Ebay: a lot from Ukraine, but also from Leszek and Ural-Zentrale at least before their shipping options got limited to DHL. Maybe I've just been unlucky, and the Chinese stuff may be better quality than Ukranian but I've still had a lot of issues.
  9. You mean a lot of the parts look the same as a 6v Chang. Having spent a good part of the last 5 years with my ass in a M72 saddle I can promise you that almost every aftermarket part you buy will need serious refinement, or else it can only be considered as a working model for your good friend the machinist when you discover that it's 5mm too short- or the wrong thread, or too small a diameter, or made from melted down soup cans instead of hardened steel. I just got a full set of "M72" parts to rebuild my top end, absolutely nothing was usable. Certainly not meaning to put you off... I love the bike and I'm sure you will too. But be prepared to custom fit everything. Have fun ! :unsure2:
  10. a few nice machines... took me a week to get my brain back in shape. more pics here :beer!:
  11. computers belong on your desk, not on your bike ;)
  12. For future reference, to flash the generator on a negative ground system you first disconnect the the wires to the regulator: connect a ground from the frame to the field (Ш) then spark the armature terminal (Я) from the battery +. As Ken says you normally won't lose polarity but it can happen if you have a completely dead battery or if you remove it from the frame for whatever reason. Keep an eye on the strap that holds the generator to the engine, they're notorious for working loose and even a little slack there will result in an epic fail.
  13. he's actually done more than one, and his other works are equally jaw dropping. Gives a whole new meaning to "rewiring the bike".
  14. charlie23

    Eye Candy

    I've started posting a photostream mostly involving vintage bikes/cars/guns/females/CCCP stuff and other weirdness that I find aesthetic for whatever reason. Definitely NSFW and adults only (warning on opening page) but no hardcore porn. Basically just the higher class stuff that catches my eye as I come across it online. Anyway, thought you guys might find it appealing: http://transversealchemy.blogspot.com/
  15. clockwise: normal counter-clockwise: reserve
  16. ok, so I have a box of assorted 6v PP1 and PP302 regulators- any quick and dirty way to weed out the junk with a voltmeter? I'm thinking of something involving a 12v battery and jumpers then reading the voltage at the bat. terminal, but not sure how to connect it.
  17. The "alternator" would imply a 12v system which only exists in my dreams.
  18. 1) My M72 has always been on a + ground for reasons that were never made clear. If I switch it over to - ground is there anything specific like the coil or regulator that need wires swapped or can I simply reverse the lines at the battery? I tried it once, it didn't work but there may have been other factors involved. 2)Polarizing the generator- I've seen websites that say you spark the field terminal and other websites that say to spark the armature. They're all talking about cars or tractors. Unfortunately the last time I did it I don't remember which one was successful. Somebody have a quick, definitive answer? 3) Anybody know a simple way to field test a 6v regulator (mechanical relay) without having a generator wired up ? Water and 57 year old Russian electronics don't play well together, in case any of you were wondering.
  19. I have an oil bath filter for the M72 but I've found it more than a bit sloppy on the bad roads here, plus it's a PITA to get on and off anytime I need to work on the generator or clutch (which happens more often than it should). I've gone back to a flush mount filter which seems to work fine.
  20. I think it's going to stay down for awhile as well, Spain and Portugal are hot on the heels of Greece in the race for economic collapse. Unfortunately shipping costs are still ridiculously high even between countries over here...
  21. Please ingest this with a large dose of sodium, bearing in mind that my M72 has about as much resemblance to a '96 tourist as it does to a Harley- but... My bike eats clutch rods like candy, partly due to my riding the clutch too much in traffic and partly due to the crap steel they use in aftermarket parts. Either Dnepr and Ural rods and bearing flanges are different sizes, the parts manufacturers haven't settled on an internationally recognized system of measurement or I've just bought stuff from confused Chinese people but none of the clutch rods I've bought online have ever fit without alteration. Since I swapped out the gearbox for a Dneprmatic I've resorted to having a half dozen custom machined at a time. That means I can't give you the correct sizes for your bike, but: 1) compare the bearing flange cap (or whatever it's called) to the old one and see if they're the same length: I think the stock Urals are longer. If it isn't worn too badly reuse it, cleaning up the bearing shoulder with a file or dremel if necessary. 2) try dropping one of the old bearings into the flange cap or between that and the puck before you put it in, that should extend the assembly enough to get your clutch working in a pinch. I've done several hundred k riding like that with no problems but your experience may vary. 3) find a machinist and get them to turn you a new rod or 2 from hardened steel, extending the stock (heavier) bit of the shaft by a few mill. You're probably going to need them eventually anyway. It's better to go a little longer because you can always dress down the square end with a file, but you can't easily add to it. On my bike with a new rod assembly, the "puck" seats so that the O-ring is just barely inside the housing with the square end of the shaft fully seated in the clutch plate. That gives me plenty of adjustment room on the cable.
  22. I should have the Russian Iron top rocker available in Cyrillic soon, if you're interested hit me up in IM or email so I can get an idea of how many to make. As mentioned many times, if the MC patch is a problem just leave it off- that's partly why they're in separate pieces.
  23. That's the really nice thing about the automatic visors: they use a LCD screen instead of a regular glass filter. Normally it's light enough to see what you're doing on the bench but as soon as you strike an arc it darkens. The better ones have adjustments for delay and darkness depending on the amps you're using. They also have a solar chip so the battery charges off your arc. Cheap ones suitable for arc welding can be had for under $50.00.
  24. 150 amp will work for that, but I'd still recommend at least 300. You may be welding thin bar stock today but next year you might need to fix something beefier and find that it won't cut it, ya know? You might check around for used equipment too, I've seen professional quality arc welders floating around pretty cheap in pawnshops and classified ads.
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