David B.

To be clear, I wasn't complaining about the price, just acknowledging that it has changed the market they are trying to swim in. I have the most fun with my bike doing things I wouldn't consider in something costing that much 🙂

I haven't ridden in a few months while rehab'ing from surgery but hoping to remedy that soon. I frankly haven't fully understood how they have survived for quite a few years now, given the limited production numbers. There certainly have been a lot of improvements in the twenty years I've been playing with them. Of course, they do cost three times as much as they did then. I think the pricing is a little bit of an issue. Only available as a Gear Up now and even with no accessories, OTD price is over $25k. A few new cars available for less including a couple of EV after rebates. That's a tough one to swallow with a spotty dealer network and lingering quality reputation. I love mine and plan to do everything I can to riding it as long as I am able but I don't see buying a new one.

You can post photos directly if you resize them. My photo is of my former ('64?)MV750, It was an early short framed version with the locking diff. I believe it was only two parts and paint away from being "correct". Sold it to a friend and forum member so I still get to see it :) The star should be found on most major parts including but not limited to; engine, trans, final drive, wheels.

I know you were asking a specific question and not general advice, but... Don't get too hung up on historical accuracy unless you are just doing it for your own sport. Unlike other marquis, there is no added value in being "correct". And as you have discovered, information is often conflicting. Do your parts have the military "star" stampings? Have any pictures to share?

Never question an easy fix. But the relay doesn't affect the kickstart, time to give that bike a tune up

Same diagram, there are a couple of errors in it but it's pretty good. There are two relays right behind the left side cover. One is headlight and one is starter, swap them and see what happens.

Check your PMs.

Just one week away...

So my concern is simply that I don't have an original dipstick for a Dnepr ohv motor. But I can check the markings on the ( Cozzi oil thermometer) dipstick I do have... Can someone measure their dipstick (yes, I knowhow that sounds) and give me the measurements down from the threads?

Does anyone know how much oil should be used ? I'm doing some maintenance work on an MB650. There is one of Ken's sumps installed and also an aftermarket dipstick so I don't trust the markings. TIA

No, the OP is a friend and the bike sold a few months ago.

Let me know when you're ready for a test ride

I have owned and ridden at least one each; Ural 650ohv, Ural 750ohv, Dnepr 650ohv, and K750 sv. The flathead absolutely looks and sounds the best. It even pulls like a tractor from a stop. But like a tractor, it is not much fun on the road. Its lack of real world power is not much fun when dealing with traffic. I really prefer the looks of the Ural 650 over the other ohv's and is quite road friendly if you keep the revs up and speed under 60 mph. I could certainly see swapping your two present drivetrains to end up with the best vintage looking parts together in a machine with reasonable road manners.

1) Do anything you can to get proper slack in cable and test ride. The cables can stretch and make things wonky. If the issue remains, time to pull the gearbox. 2) You can service the clutch without pulling the motor, I just did it. 3) Vance is correct that it may just be crap in the internal splines, but you'll have to open it anyway. 4) I'm nearby if you need help. And typing anything here is suddenly really F****d up!

Last I heard Rich wasn't taking on seats but give it a shot, I have owned one and they are comfortable. I also have an RDL on another bike and like it. Here is a Ural dealer selling RDL's : http://www.racewayservicespaa.com/ural-accessories-1.html