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About Neil3Wheeler

  • Birthday 12/05/1962

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  • My Bike(s)
    2005 Patrol
  • My Story
    I owned a Kawasaki Vulcan 750 and a HD Sportster 883; hated them both.....so impractical. It's like owning a power boat that you trailer to a lake, motor around for a while, put it back on the trailer and go home. What was accomplished? Later on I owned a purpose-bought BMW F650 purchased solely for a European trip through 12 countries. Nice 'bike and I wished I could have kept it, but it wasn't a sidebike so I wasn't sorry to see it go.

Neil3Wheeler's Achievements

Russian Bike Nut

Russian Bike Nut (3/3)

  1. I don't know how dealers are compensated by IMWA for warranty labor and warranty parts, but it sure sounds like the dealer was trying to come out ahead in the warranty parts department by using at least one NOS jug and a pair of NOS pipes from stock. Seems like IMWA would have known something was up when perhaps a 2005 cylinder was ordered for a warranty claim on a 2006 GU. In all likelihood the cylinders are essentially the same functionally (unless an install mistake was made, i.e. gasket reversed or studs loose) and the main problem is the crossover missing from the circa 1990's pipes. IMWA created bolt-on pipes for a reason and that's what you bought, so I say you should have it. Heck, I wish I had bolt-on pipes so I wasn't so scared about taking mine off for painting just to have them leak forever. I'm waiting for them to rust into place someday so I don't have to lose sleep over it anymore.
  2. I live in fear of trying to replace a relay on the side of the road. Those things are exceedingly difficult to reach on top of the battery, where I can see one, or under the petrol tank where I surmise there might be another one (headlight?). I almost wish IMZ would drop the battery bracket down about 12mm to give additional finger clearance above the battery. If there was a shorter battery on the market, I would buy it and even sacrifice a few amps in exchange for easier repairs and to relieve the rat's nest of wires - one of two nests - the other being in the headlight bucket. In the words of JG, "yet another job well done." I not only have a pair of heavy gauge jumper wires added to my onboard kit, but you have also troubleshot the problem long distance. I believe the faint click I heard last night and this morning was the OEM relay working as advertised while the battery to solenoid wire suffered from increased resistance at the solenoid end. This is probably due to an excessive amount of road salt picked up over the winter. My rig sports the last year of IMZ-produced wiring, and insulation or weather jackets that stop before the connector leaving exposed areas are present at various points around the rig. I disconnected the hack fender wiring at the forward sidecar strut to install my new Chinese hack headlight last weekend and dumped out 2 years worth of rainwater. The connector on the positive post at the solenoid and the retracted insulation next to that was the culprit. I'll be dismantling the rat's nest soon to add a master switch & remote some wires I previously added that currently terminate at the battery's positive post. I might flip the battery around to change the positive post from inboard to outboard (some IMWA dealers do this during setup). Everything gets a once over at that time, but meanwhile I'm back in action. So, I finish my two year warranty at the end of June with three claims: horn was replaced, leaky valve cover gaskets and pusher bearings worn out.
  3. Good news! My warranty has 6 more days left before the two-year anniversary. Anyway, I became a kick-start only driver after it became apparent to me the initial stages of the rig's break-in period were over. One or two-kick starts became the norm. The amount of charging the alternator does at idle (nil) versus the amount of accessories I've fitted (several) makes me harbor as many electrons as possible, and kickstarting saves amps. Of course after I kickstart during warmup, I use the clothespin-between-the-throttle-and-the-front-brake-assembly trick to keep RPMs up. I figure an electric start on a cold engine that then has to go through warmup & top the battery at the same time is asking too much. Last night, I was departing a friend's house and decided to use the electric start for some reason. Much to my surprise, while wearing my helmet, I didn't hear any sound whatsoever when mashing the starter button. One kick later, I was on the road. I figure the last time I electric-started could have been in April but I can't remember for sure. When I got back to the homestead I shut the bike down & took off my helmet. I have a Kisan ammeter/voltmeter fitted (called the chargeGUARD) that had been indicating normally the entire ride out (in a light rain) & back that day (ammeter at zero during cruise) and has been indicating normally for the last year & a half on the OEM battery. With the helmet off and kill switch in the run position, I mashed the starter button and saw the routine power drop that resets the chargeGUARD and heard a very faint click (very faint). I turned the handlebars from lock-to-lock with the button depressed without effect. This morning I tapped on the solenoid and tried again - same thing. I haven't fiddled with anything around the battery or other connections associated with the starter in over a year. My ride out to my friend's house (25 miles) was in a light rain - the ride back was dry. More good news - Yankee Bob is only 10 miles away and he has been back at work - I visited just two weeks ago. He asked, "How's the rig running?" and I said, "fine." Guess I need to pay another visit this week, but chances are I only need a replacement part if the wiring has continuity. Although I'm still running the OEM battery, all indications are good (chargeGUARD and a SignalDynamics Heads-Up Voltage Monitor). Is the downside of kickstarting never knowing when your starter may have packed it in? [That starter comes in mighty handy when you're in the kickstarting no-man's land of an engine that's too warm for enricheners and too cold to start without 'em.] Any ideas on what the problem might be?
  4. Little known fact, but everything in the tool kit can be a warranty item. When I took delivery of my rig, I was a little wow'd with everything and didn't check the contents of the kit. Months later, I took a hard look at how many tools I had and discovered I was missing two wrenches. The Russian language checklist in the kit even had those wrenches crossed off. I took a digital picture of the entire kit that I had, and a picture of the Russian list, mailed it to IMWA. A short while later I received a bubble envelope with the two missing wrenches - end of story. I didn't involve the dealer with this warranty item because I figured IMWA would have the wrenches on the shelf, and fixing the problem didn't involve any work nor much effort. I suggest you take a picture of the two damaged wrenches and mail it to IMWA with a letter and they will probably send you out new ones. That's really the only things on your list you can't (or shouldn't have to) deal with.
  5. Neil3Wheeler


    Let's get that signature block updated because I have no idea what I'm looking at. That luggage is very nice though. Seems like you almost have the haul capacity of a Ural. With just the topcase around town you have plenty of space.
  6. No doubt this mishap has nothing whatsoever to do with 2WD nor rear braking, and everything to do with engine compression at high RPM and perhaps front braking. For example, at a good rate of speed, pull in the clutch lever - rig will slow down & track straight with a slight (easily managed) trend to the left. Another example, at a good rate of speed, without varying the power apply the rear brakes a little bit, then add a little front brake - the asymetric authority of the front brake manifests itself with a trend to the left caused by the offset inertia of the sidecar. The worst situation would be caused by high RPM throttle roll-off and aggressive application of front brake. High RPM engine compression deceleration is in essence applying rear braking to just the pusher, not the hack wheel. Yeah, if 2WD were engaged that wouldn't happen but conditions favoring use of 2WD really don't have any bearing on situations resulting in head-on collisions on pavement. Of course, the rear brake pedal slows down both the rear & hack wheels, but how much? Put your rig up on its center stand, then use a block of wood to also elevate the hack wheel. Now, set the parking brake handle and maybe tighten the parking brake adjuster bolt. Try to use your hand to pull the pusher wheel and compare that to the force required to pull the hack wheel. I like to have my hack wheel grab slightly more than my pusher, which counteracts the power of the front brake. In a straight-ahead application of brakes with oncoming traffic using this setup, braking overall favors either continuing straight ahead or the shoulder of the road instead of the oncoming lane. [OT notes on right turns: Also, with this setup in right turns, application of rear brake just prior to or even in the turn keeps the hack where it belongs - behind the turn. With just a little rear brake pedal it's possible for the hack brake to drag with no pusher drag really at all. Heck, in a right turn roll-on the power while depressing a little rear brake pedal really helps keep the sidecar behind you and on the ground. Some guys have modified the rear brake pedal to split it into two pedals.] As always, when adjusting rear drum brakes, when the rear brake pedal is at rest the brake pads should not be dragging on the drum. After adjusting the drum brakes conduct some road testing. Go for a ride and when you stop, use the front brake. Then, touch the drums (not the final drive) - if it is too hot to leave your fingers there - the pads are dragging (too tight). Generally when I'm riding I'll occasionally hit just the rear brakes hard to make sure I get a slight swerve to the right which means my own particular setup is as I like it. Yeah, it is difficult for us front-disc devils to get a good hard stop with a mechanical linkage to the drum brakes, but hey, the drum brake is the original anti-lock brake - and we pay top-dollar for ABS don't we? I don't know what the breakdown of numbers would be, but with one rider this rig is much heavier on the left and with a hack passenger the rig is still heavier on the left. It's good there is more braking authority on the left, but with the CG biased to the left, the comparatively light sidecar has more leverage to drag the entire rig to the left. This kind of defeats the purpose of having all of that braking on the left side. But proper brake setup combined with knowledge of everything that is involved with stopping can defeat most mishaps. Don't forget that engine compression, especially at high RPM, can apply even more braking force to the pusher than the drum can (unless you pull in the clutch lever) so compression is a big part of the equation. I'm no expert, but about half of the equivalent 1000 miles of tire tread expended at sidecar safety school covering just a few miles on the closed course was scrubbed off in braking drills.
  7. I have my brand new 2006 Ural Tourist 750 manual in my hands and clearly on page 13, it says: Valves with Engine cold .... 0.002 to 0.004 in. (I picked her up on her up on May 6 and rode into work all this week. Tomorrow I do the 500KM first service...) Check the placard on the outboard downtube - it says .004 to .006 inch .... I don't think the guy who wrote the manual reads the stickers.
  8. How did IMWA get Alec Baldwin to narrate the video? "I'm going to get on a plane, and I'm going to come out there for the day and I'm going to straighten your ass out when I see you, do you understand me?"
  9. I've found if you are ready to find neutral, from first gear, step down slightly on the upshift (rear) end of the lever and increase RPM a little. The increased RPM seems to prevent the gearbox from going straight from first to second. Your battery will thank you insofar as the alternator won't charge the battery at idle. Another sure way to find neutral is to - from first gear - press down lightly on the upshift (rear) end of the lever while at the same time pressing down lightly on the reverse lever with your right heel. The gearbox goes straight into neutral, and then you have to return the reverse lever to the stowed position with the lip of the inside of your right heel. The reverse lever has three positions: stowed -up, reverse engaged -down, and in between - neutral finder. The gearbox won't go into first gear, or any other gear for that matter, when the reverse lever is in the central position. It's easier than it sounds.
  10. Two more of these just popped up on eBay: Item number: 330107158490 Item number: 330107158763 They're both 6V lights but I think a simple bulb change will make it 12V, however, there is an ON-OFF switch on top of the housing that may not be liking the 12V. One is Buy-It-Now for $59, and the other is an auction - I ended up getting mine for $31 USD plus shipping.
  11. Another one of these up for bid on eBay from China, Item number: 190097568090 I just received mine in the mail and the build quality is very good.
  12. This popped up in my eBay daily keyword=Ural email: Item number: 250098407617
  13. For your headlight, and maybe sidecar spotlight(?), try this British website: http://www.rusmilitary.com/html/c-equip_general.htm and don't forget to order a Russian messkit and canteen also. Here's a Chinese lamp that you might like to bolt on....eBay Item Number: 190094457943 Note: Before you pay for the lamp, hit the link for "View seller's other items" and check out what else he has for 'Buy It Now' (like this helmet). He'll combine shipping and invoice you once for everything. Here's one of those blackout cover sets that may fit your rear & sidehack fender light fixtures....eBay Item Number: 290036769273 These blackout sets are always coming up on eBay - and this set may be overpriced.
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