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  1. Yesterday
  2. Hi, Vance i`m not sure if a Ural one would fit. As it happens, I think I might have found one,just waiting to hear from supplier. thanks for all your thoughts. Ride safe Jim
  3. Is the final drive ratio the same as on Urals? Would a Ural speedo fit? Often the same instruments were used in different factories.
  4. Last week
  5. Hi, Russ I agree but that would not work in Switzerland. It will have to be an original speedo from the factory. They are very particular, that`s why it`s taken me so long to get it registered, I`ve been trying for 3 years to get a number plate. thanks for the suggestion though.
  6. You can always mount a bicycle speedometer on your Dnepr. That will likely be more accurate that the stock speedos, and meet the authorities' rules. RussN
  7. Hello there i am on the verge of getting my MT10-36 plated after a long struggle with the authorities. In short, everything else is in order, but the speedo is not working properly. Has anyone out there got a speedo for a Dnepr MT for sale? I would be grateful for any help. Thanks ride free jim
  8. Dnepr MT 10 with a cannibalized seat.
  9. Hi, I would like to seek your assistance in identifying this motorcycle which i intend to restore and keep as an antique. The bike is in my home country Fiji ISlands. many thanks in advance. rgds, Arvind Autar
  10. Can you tell what year the engine is by the number. I've got a registered 1969 bike. Supposedly military, but only has a mix of military/civilian stuff on it. 2 wheel drive w/sidecar. Engine case is T448019, Original owner says he bought it in 75 or so on a pallet and put it together. He's made various mods over the years. Not sure where to find a vin or a frame number.
  11. And I forgot a pic. Here is the newest member from the house
  12. Earlier
  13. Hey all, We have two Urals both with three people each participate in the Toys for Tots ride this year. Didn’t get many pictures but I got one of my two kids (who are rockin’ RIMC shirts) and the exchange students we are hosting. Collectively we had about 550 bikes and collected about 750 toys. Next event is the Trunk or Treat on Rock Island Arsenal, stay tuned for that ride event!! Ryan
  14. Hey folks!!! Sorry I have been off the grid lately. Here is a photo of the kids representing RIMC at the local ABATE Toys for Tots ride. And me with the latest addition to the family. Looking to expand the options on CafePress for some more items. Let me know!!! Ryan
  15. This thing still available? What's your asking price?
  16. I have a 2000 Ural Deco Classic with electric start and reverse gear. About 5000 miles ago, I dropped a tool and sheared off the reverse-throw set-screw at the back of the tranny flush to the case. Since then, the screw has migrated in the “right” direction, that is, the one that impedes getting into reverse, but does not lock out the forward gears. As a result, I can engage enough of the reverse gear to use it for a dodgy parking brake, but not for actual rearward motion. With the transmission still in the bike, I made several futile attempts to remove the stub of the screw. But I found the location inaccessible and gave up. Recently I bit the bullet and took the transmission out. Picture # 1 is the rear view of same. Picture #2 is a close-up of where reverse-throw set-screw SHOULD be. And here is where my big mystery begins: I could swear that the set screw resided in the left-hand and shorter of the two near-circular projecting posts that together form a figure-eight. And that would be consistent with the tool marks on that post that I made in my attempts to remove the stub of the screw while the transmission was still in the bike. But, as in the Picture #3—as well as in every photo and diagram of Ural & Dnepr transmissions I have looked at going back to dirt—the set screw sits in the right-hand post. Further, the right-hand post on my transmission is as smooth as a baby’s bottom, with no stub of a screw visible, as if there had never been one at all! So, amateur that I am, I just cannot figure it out. Do I have a rare model exception in which the screw is indeed on the left? Or no screw at all? Can the sheared-off stub—assuming it is in the right-hand position where it should be—have been so-well camouflaged by oxidation and grime across seven-odd years so as to give no surface appearance? Am I safe to just telling the machinist to drill-and-extract at the center of the right-hand post? Or do I need to do an “exploratory disassembly” to determine the true state of affairs? Or is there something else that you-all will no doubt think of? Thanks and blessings for any and all responses!
  17. Hi, has anyone in UK tried these tyres from Brockley Tyres? https://www.blockleytyre.com/product/400-x-19
  18. One of the best things about our hobby... Puppy rides with me..... SB#3
  19. We had one dog who would jump into the sidecar but as soon as I approached the bike he was out of there, he didn't like engine noise. A shame because he really liked to ride in the car.
  20. Just sharing a picture of my dog Enzo, enjoying his perch on our old Dnepr. We rode 76 km on 29 August, 2021. He's always up for a ride.
  21. Hi yes these model were sold in Ireland.
  22. Are you in Europe? All US models came with Keihin CV carbs. And I believe the chrome shocks mean you have Russian shocks and I think the US models had Paoli shocks. Or someone changed out the carbs.
  23. Hi yes I have one like this but I have a few different parts on my model My carburettors are k 68s air box are different front fork legs are crome..
  24. It is a Ural Wolf. First imported into the USA in 2003. Production began earlier for Russian release. I own one of the first ones to hit the USA. RussN
  25. Hi here is the photo when I pulled it out of the ditch.
  26. Up for Sale is my Dnepr MT16 - 2 Wheel Drive sidecar. It is really much better than a new Ural in a lot of ways. Then there is the cool factor. The bike has been part of the family for a long time, I will likely regret selling it. I purchased it with 25 Kilometers on the clock in 2009. I replaced the speedo when I did the conversion, it reads 3,300km. It is registered as a 1964 and has a 1978 BMW R100rt motor. The title is clear, current and has a North Carolina Antique Plate The VIN is a California "Blue Tag", making it as easy to register as any other vehicle. I am turning 65 soon and moving most of the year to Europe. That said, a few life changes are going on, including selling a bike or two. This Bike is a full time 2 wheel drive (like a car and unlike the Ural locker type) and goes off road to places you wouldn’t think it could go. The BMW conversion is common in Europe and well proven. The motor is electric start, fires right up and runs great. A few of the Upgrades to this bike 1,000 CC BMW R100RT motor, I lowered the compression (shims under the cylinders) for better low end and the ability to run low octane gas. Check what the motor alone is worth, if you can find one.... I have only run no ethanol fuel in the bike from day one. It has hardened valve seats and puts out double the power of the old Soviet motor. It is a big valve engine with 40mm Bing carburetors. As is common practice with this conversion, there is a BMW /2 clutch disc, it doesn’t slip. There is a heavy duty fiber reinforced rubber donut on the driveshaft, designed specifically for the bigger motor. The Dnepr 804 trans is widely regarded as the most robust of the Russian Gearboxes, it has been modified with a lower 1st and a higher 4th gear ratio, the bearings are all Timken or SKF. It has good low end power and easily runs up to speed. Electronic ignition; it retains points and the auto advance mechanism. The dodgy Soviet wiring harness has been replaced, all connectors are soldered and shrink tubed. There are 30amp relays controlling the starting and headlight circuits. The headlight is a 55/100 Hella bulb and lights up the road as well as a modern bike. There is a full size car battery in the trunk. Front Disc Brake – the drums were OK 50 years ago in the Soviet Union; they were unsafe on American roads. I used a large piston Honda Type Master Cylinder, retained the Leading Link front end (for easy steering) and installed a double caliper disc setup. It stops really well now. All the U Joints were replaced a couple of years ago. Comes with lots of extra parts, gaskets and filters. Tires will last another season; they are Duro and a Kenda knobby as a spare for dirt work. All wheels are interchangeable on the bike. This thing is a hoot to ride, it goes in the snow and the mountains with ease, everyone wants to go for a ride. There are few motorcycles I have owned that faithfully give me the grins, this is one of them. I also have a full size trailer that fits the bike, that I will Sell for $250 if you buy the bike. $8000 mlcfry@hotmail.com
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