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  1. Yesterday
  2. Thanks gentlemen, I noticed what you're talking about at the other place. I found a side cover on the auction site for a pretty good price. Thanks for the help and suggestions. Safe riding. Jack
  3. Last week
  4. Have for sale a set of the early style intakes that use the metal middle and elbows. Some cracking in the lower rubber but they look serviceable. Will need new clamps also a set of the early bolt on Mikuni carb mounts. One mount needs the new rubber gasket to the carb. $25 in a flat rate box shipped to the lower 48
  5. My experience with Urals and Mikuni carbs suggests the popping sounds are the result of air leaks in the compliance fitting between the carb and the cylinder head. Those parts require replacement over time, as they harden and crack. If you don't know how old those compliance fittings are, expect to replace them with new ones, at least as a prophylactic measure. That could make your experience much easier and enjoyable with these machines. I always ride with spares compliance fittings sealed in plastic bags, in my "spares kit." I've only ever needed them when I didn't have them wit
  6. Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor, hold a container under it, and turn the petcock on. You should get a nice flow of fuel. Other than that you must remove the float bowl to access the needle valve, float, and be able to check the passage for obstruction between the fuel inlet hose connection and the needle valve seat. You could also have clogged jets and passages connected to them. Carburetors like the ones you have are not complicated and can be reassembled in only one way. Just make sure you have a clean area to work on when taking the carburetor apart and have small containers fo
  7. Update: it seems my left ciøinder is not working as the head stays cold. Tried to adjust idle speed and air screw without any effect. Difficult to se if petrol is running. The right cilinder seems to work fine, gets warm but after running several minutes it starts to make popping sounds, only when warm. any suggestion how to se if fuel is blocked, without opening the carberator? any idears why the right cilinder start makkng sound after several minutes (5+) running fine?? Thanks in advance Henk
  8. Hi Changed out carbs to Mikuni. When I started the engine went to about 840 rpm with choke open. (Top low??) After a some minutes I turned the throttle and ramped up the rpms. This went smoothly, but went I released the throttle the rpms went down and below the idle speed (choke still open) and after a short time the engine died. This happend twice and when closing the chokes after some minutes the engine died. 1. Why did my rpms dropped below Idle even with choke open after I released the throttle? 2. Must adjusting carbs and minimum idle speed be done when running on 1 cilinder with c
  9. Come on out, or stay at home and watch You Tube, your choice...
  10. Earlier
  11. Good advice from all. If you are having trouble tracing a wire from one end of the harness to the other, another tool that can help is a cable tracker. It consists of 2 pieces, a signal generator that you clip to the wire, and a receiver that detects the signal and thus the wire. Harbor Freight carries one and they are available at other places too. I would try the other methods listed first as it avoids the expense (about $25 US) but if you aren't having luck this can help. Here's a link to the Harbor Freight one: https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html
  12. Trinidad: Scott E offers sage advice. I will add: Acquire an electrical multimeter and learn how to use the "Ohm Meter" portion to trace wiring. In my Electrical Engineering career that tool has been one of the most useful for troubleshooting electronics. This will allow you do "unravel" the wire harness without physically tracing the wires, and then mark those connected wire ends for later use. And considering that I have never found coherent use of wire colors in Russian wire harnesses and diagrams on 4 different motorcycles, this is important to do. Because you do not
  13. I don't have any diagrams that are not already available on this site and on the internet via a search. It's really not all that complicated. It looks complicated when you look at all the wires and connections as one big puzzle but if you work on only one circuit at a time it's really simple. It's just several circuits all located in one place with a couple of them going through the main switch and others just going to light bulbs. The oil pressure switch is just a simple circuit that is connected to the battery through the main switch, then the oil pressure bulb, and ending at the oil pressu
  14. Just to ensure I've read correctly, start off by only completing one main circuit, like the secondary or primary headlamp light, to see if the electrics are faulty, and go from there? One concern that I have is with the harness having pre lengthened wires. I'll have to try out each wire as I go to see if they can reach where they need to go, e.g make sure the green can reach the positive on the ignition coil, and if it doesn't, swap the headlamp wire with it etc. So I guess I'll do as you said, trace things as I go. I've also noticed that the diagram I posted was for a K-650 and has
  15. After so many years and so many people working on the bike I'd say the colors mean nothing. Worse it may have a new main switch that is nothing like the original and was replaced with a new switch from another model motorcycle. You just don't know until you start tracing it all out, which you will need to do. The easiest way to go about it is buy or make a simple test light connected to a 6 volt battery if you are keeping the motorcycle 6 volts or a 12 volt battery if you plan on upgrading to a 12 volt system. You can use one of the warning lights in the headlight as your test lamp. Start with
  16. @Scott E Don't want to create a whole new thread for this, so hopefully you're fine with me tagging you. I want to do the wiring, I've bought a harness. There's six colours to the new harness, White, Black, Green, Red, Blue and Brown. Currently the wiring has the positive grounded and the negative connected to the positive terminal (despite it being a negative ground system) along with other serious issues, like the generator wires connecting to the battery directly. However, the wires dangling out the headlight currently, have 7 colours. All the ones listed above, with grey.
  17. Hi Guys. I'm really sorry for the delay in replying to this after you all left such good responses. Thanks for that. Others stuff took over but I did have a look at this a couple of times. I checked the ring gaps and they seemed a little tight so I opened them up. However, it was still getting hot. To cut a long story short, I took the barrels and pistons to a local machine shop. When cold, all measuremnts seem to work and tolerences for the barrels and pistons seemd fine but... the machine shop guy poured boiling water on the piston (100 deg C, obviously : ) and the p
  18. Hello Vance, hi Russ. Havn't been here for long time. Eric, I have a pair of white ones. Used...
  19. Come to think of it there's actually a reasonable amount of truth to that. I cannot find anyone else with a side valve Ural or Dnepr or KMZ on there, but as soon as I came here the first 4 other members I see have a side valve. And yeah, I'll put the stand down and run it like that. I have 2 more questions, if you don't mind. 1, is that I can't tell if I have a K-750 or K-750M anymore. I saw this image (dark blue new looking bike, not mine) where the static arm is very long and goes to a hole in the frame, where my damper is a short arm, which sticks onto a little prong that com
  20. Terry's dealer contact info is: http://www.crawfordsales.info You can also look up your nearest Ural dealer from the main Ural web site. As mentioned already, knowing your location can help us help you. RussN
  21. Terry Crawford also parts out old bikes and has a good stock of parts.
  22. Are you in the USA? A location would help as this forum has international users. If you are in the USA you might check with https://www.heindlengineering.com/ They are a large Ural dealer that take Ural motorcycles on trade and also buy them. Some older Urals with bad major parts such as engines, gear boxes, and final drives they part out and so I'm sure they may have a used battery cover they would sell. You may also ask for one at https://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/index.php in the Black Market sub section. There are a lot of Ural Dealers that post and watch that forum for people
  23. Anyone have a battery side cover to fit a 2012 Gear Up? Color not important. Let me know, thanks, Jack
  24. If you can't drive it on the road you could put the stand down and run it through the gears with the tire off the ground. That could give you an indication of proper shifting and clutch operation as well as checking the engine oil pressure and if the carburetors are setup correctly. The speedometer will function with the tire off the ground so you can watch it so you don't over speed the engine. If you hook up the alternator with a battery and regulator you can test it as well when it's running. Just connect a volt meter to the battery and if the voltage is around 14 VDC above idle the alterna
  25. When you reach the wiring, how many colours are there supposed to be for wires, if it's a solo? My K-750's got 7, but harnesses online have 6....
  26. It's been a mere few days and already I've learned a huge amount more specifically about the older models than a while on Soviet Steeds. Wish I had the proper vocabulary range to thank you. What I'll do is drain the oil from the transmission and engine, pull the transmission out and un stick the clutch plates. Instead of riding around in traffic since I'm not old enough to ride, and it's currently SORN (off the road, so not being taxed and not allowed on the road) alongside rusty wheels, a faulty unscrewing steering damper and no proper wiring, do you suggest that I just put the kickstan
  27. Do not be worried about going into the gear box. It's very simple in there. You will more than likely need new gaskets and seals if the bike has been sitting a long time. I have no idea why they have a zip tie on the clutch lever unless they thought it would spring apart when they removed the clutch cable. You need to pull out the clutch throwout bearing assembly and inspect it. Simply remove the Carter or split pin holding the axle for the clutch arm. Then remove the axle and then the clutch arm. Then pull out the plug the clutch arm pushes in and below that you will find a ring of ball
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