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  1. Yesterday
  2. Great to hear Rod. Lapping in a petcock valve body was a new approach to an old problem. ND.
  3. Last week
  4. Can I recommend modern carburetors? Makes a huge difference to both power and economy. You need all the help you can get with 2-wheel drive. Hope you don't use 75w140 gearbox oil.
  5. Yep, the stack pipe was partially crimped over at the tip, and the weeping was being caused by scoring of the valve stem and body, bits of crap have obviously got trapped between the two at some time. I drilled the stack pipe then spun up the valve stem and lightly took some fine wet and dry cross it. I couldn't get in to dress up the valve body surface, so once the valve stem had been cleaned up, I gently lapped it in to the valve body with some fine cutting paste - 2 x 10mm nuts on the threaded end and then 10mm socket on a speed wrench. The result was a nice snug fit that really benefitted
  6. Thanks CZ, that's the juice I've been after. Yes I'd imagine that 1:1 is stretching it in 4th and will go with 21/25. Could you tell me where you sourced your gears from?
  7. You can't go wrong with Boyer - I'm still running one on my 500/4 Honda, fitted over 30yrs ago.
  8. My mate just had one die. It would cough and fart and eventually die. Wait 5 minutes and it would start, run fine for a while and then repeat the whole process. The power transistor seems to be failing open circuit. It took the coil with it. He's just ordered a Boyer system and we are going to go with that. I have a box with 4 dead Russian systems. No box for dead boyer so far.
  9. I have an MT11-engined 2WD Dnepr. Because of the (very) low 2wd final drive ratio, during the last gearbox rebuild I went for the 18/28 3rd and the 23/23 fourth gears, to give a cruising speed of above the 45mph I was getting with the standard ratios. The third is actually good, giving a natural progression from 2nd and allowing the engine to pull well and a definite improvement. Fourth, however, is a massive jump up from that which the engine struggles to pull through unless on the flat or downhill; not too much of an issue round here in Beds/Bucks/Northants as there aren't even many slopes
  10. Hallo Chris, bitte entschuldige mein Deutsch, ich benutze Google Translate. Hier ist ein Link zu den Informationen, die Sie benötigen, aber ich fürchte, es ist auf Englisch. Freundliche Grüße. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.russianiron.com/eafranke_ural3/Part%20V-11-%20K-68%20Carbs.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjghqGb-qPuAhWmQkEAHZjiDJUQFjABegQIAxAJ&usg=AOvVaw2AYuwlj26_pBnGogUm2Voz
  11. Ditto - Sovek problems I fitted the latest Sovek unit (slotted cup rotor) simply to save the periodic checking/cleaning of the points, and wished I hadn't bothered. From the outset the spark was weaker than the original points with Jap coil, but other than that no issues. However over time, starting and tickover issues emerged and slowly got worse. Not suspecting a new ignition system might be the cause, I chased my tail, re-adjusting, striping and cleaning the Dellorto carbs. Finally the bike wouldn't start at all, and found there was no spark. I checked the whole system through for cont
  12. I haven’t tried that Rod but your approach seems good, let us know if it works. ND
  13. Definitely. I found the same, whatever they used to chop the standpipe to length left the fuel entrance burred, partially blocked. ND
  14. You should deburr the ends of the brass stackpipe. Often they are crimped over by the cutting tool. I also chase through the body with a drill when the tap is in the open and reserve position as the tap often isn't aligned.
  15. Thanks ND, I will see if I can overhaul rather than replace. Thanks for pointing me to the Franke archive, great resource. The main problem I'm having with this petcock is fuel weeping through to the carbs when in the off position, no matter how tight I adjust the brass valve stem. Will follow your mods, re-assemble using some red rubber grease (I've not done that before), but was also considering lapping the brass valve stem into the valve body with some fine valve grinding paste, is that something you've done or heard of before?
  16. Earlier
  17. Having her back home is a great way to start the year. I am so glad. If she already can use all her limbs and can speak normally, I am sure she will have a pretty complete recovery. Thank you for letting us know.
  18. Petcock internals. The brand new standpipe was bent and needed to be straightened before drilling out!
  19. Confirmed, it's M14 x 1.5. I replaced the original (seized) with another original and haven't had any problems but I modified it a little bit first. They have (or should have) ample fuel tolerant grease in them or they are not going to last. Too much grease and it can impede fuel flow, mine suffered this. I also struggled to find an off the shelf crush washer to seal it in a manner that the petcock was orientated in the right direction when tightened correctly so I eventually made one out of aluminum on the lathe to the correct thickness. Further mods include drilling out the orific
  20. Thanks ND - really helpful. It's the usually problem of finding alternatives to the stock petcocks which invariably weep, seize or snap due to crap metal (happened to me twice over the years).
  21. Sorry for the late reply, my browser had an issue and was NOT showing new pages. Becky was sent home on 12-31 and is doing pretty well. She speaks normally, just forgets a word now and then. She gets around pretty much on her own. She is having a week full of follow up appointments this week, and more in the weeks to come. She has some weakness on the left side but is able to use all limbs.
  22. Should be M14 x 1.5. If nobody else confirms, I’ll check tomorrow when I’m home. ND
  23. Could someone remind me of the size and pitch of thread for Dnepr petcock (MT11) fitment into the fuel tank. Thanks
  24. NDuck: Yes, setting in the shoes to the drum surfaces takes some time. But there are quicker ways to do it: For my various Urals I acquired narrow rolls of sanpaper strips with light adhesive backing, and pressed them onto the cleaned drum surface. Then I turned the wheel by hand while sanding the shoe surfaces in position in the drum. That process greatly decreased the setting-in time. I also lightly beveled the leading and trailing edges of the shoes (with a file), which eliminated vibrations when applying the brakes. I can lock up the wheels using the brakes, if required.
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