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  1. Yesterday
  2. I glad He's still around great guy to talk to.
  3. A little Heli-arc on the pin does wonders if you WFO a lot on a roller crank. 2 strokes like that too!
  4. yeah, I have a dnepr so you guys know what's going on, but this place knows what a dnepr is.
  5. ^^ I agree...unless, as I suspect, the thing has mechanical ignition advance mechanism..these can sieze from sitting. But, as I said The order is Fuel, then Spark etc!!!
  6. If it was running fine when you put it away I don’t suspect the timing changed or compression was lost while it was stored. If you have spark, compression and fresh fuel in the carburetor bowls it should want to start unless the jets and/or mixture ports are fouled. After five years of sitting I’d focus on ensuring clean carburetors.
  7. I pretty much do it in that order... make sure you have fuel... even wet plugs!!, then look for Spark, then test compression... even a thumb over the Plug hole.. finally the spark needs to be at the correct timing... hardest to determine..
  8. Thanks I’ll work me through in the morning much appreciated Ian
  9. Fuel, Spark, Compression, Timing...Which is/are Missing??
  10. Hi everyone Just recommissioning my outfit from about five years ago everything going well got fuel in carbs, new battery, was running fine when I put it up but now I can’t get it started. Even put it on the car battery it will turn but not fire did get a few splutters out of the left pot. Don’t want to churn it over for too long each time. Anyone got any ideas please. Kind regards Ian
  11. Last week
  12. Hi everyone It’s been so long I have a Ural Dalesman outfit (2004), I’ve had it since 2009 and loved every minute of it. But and a big but, I took the battery out about four years ago and greased it all up, now I come to ride it again I’ve given it a good clean and it remarkably has stayed very fresh. But I can’t remember how the wires go. Looked at many wiring diagrams but not the most helpful. I’ve worked out that the large black cable from the gearbox hex screw is the earth cable and the other one from starter motor is positive. But I have these two other wir
  13. My Sovek ignition survived an Alabama August with no issues. I've been reading about Sovek ignition issues about transistor problems and hot temps. Apparently one of the inspection stations that was testing them was overheating them with faulty equipment. They tested good but the units that went across that station later failed in use in hot weather. I suspect that some of the components such as resistors and capacitors were damaged causing their values to change such as capacitors opening or shorting across the leads and resistors opening or their value changing to something much lower in va
  14. Here in Alabama it hardly ever snows but when it does we take the day off and play in it! I made up some snow chains for my MT-11 just in case we get some.
  15. Earlier
  16. Have to say I've had a problem with the latest type that uses the slotted cup. Using them on my rather hotted up K750. When they get hot the transistor can fail. I replaced the transistor on one with a Taiwanese better quality one but that eventually failed too ( long run sitting at 80kmh on the hottest day of the year (30C in the shade). Just fitted a Boyer Brandsen which should be reliable. The BB doesn't run as nice though.
  17. Well, back in Canada now and time to finish the project, assuming that a Dnepr can ever be finished. I figured it would be a positive sign from the Great God of Dneprs in the sky if it would start after 14 months in the shed. A few hiccups was all I got, and a worn out leg from the kickstart. Ok, best do it the right way. I replaced the dubious gas in the tank and removed the carburetor bowls. Left carb was full of water...got rid of that and primed with fresh fuel. Still just hiccups. Disconnected fuel hoses at carbs and found fuel not flowing as it should. Blew out petco
  18. LOL Gettin Cooler here... Close to time to put the bikes away and get the snow blowers out!!!!
  19. Thanks Russ... Stay Safe my friend..
  20. Gents, Getting cooler here and that means time to break out the Nippers..... Hope all is going well for you. SB#3
  21. I know from Drag Racing My Harleys, that Pipes make alot of difference... But it is hard to fathom a Meager 650 Dnepr becoming a powerhouse!! Now you have Piqued my curiosity..... maybe sometime this winter...
  22. The differences are gobs of low rpm torque and it's really quiet. I have some really steep hills where I live and ride. Before the stock exhaust I needed to be in first gear to go up them. Now second gear is fine with no engine complaints on the steepest one and with all the others all I need do is drop into third about 2/3rds the way up and all is good. The one is exceptionally steep. So steep it's difficult even for a healthy person to climb, and I do mean climb. Most people in my area drive the long way around to avoid it. Before the stock exhaust I would come to a near stop at the bottom a
  23. Hmmm... Not being that scientific, what I found was the walboro needles are smallish diameter, and the left side float would not get ahold of the needle properly... My needle nose pliers closed the "slot" a bit...and all good!!!
  24. I am still running 2 into 2 with Sportster mufflers... Baffles IN.. Too much like work to go to the original... tho I have one!!! Keep Boasting... maybe I will go to Stock!!! Edit; Admittedly, I have never ridden it with the stock set-up.. Please feel free to elaborate on the differences you notice... Thanks
  25. Glad to have the forum back! Thank you so must for the effort you extend to make it possible.
  26. Good to have the Forum back and working again! I've have over a 1,000 Km on the 2 into 1 KMZ exhaust system I got from Arbalet Ukraine spare parts. The engine still likes it. I have much better low in torque now and the carburetors tune properly and stay that way. No more randomly mis-matched synchronization issues. Apparently a Dnepr 650 engine must have the correct exhaust back pressure for everything to work properly.
  27. I used the Walbro float needles in my K65 carbs. They worked fine on one but I still had trouble with the other carb needle not sealing off the flow. I turned a 35 degree point on an old 1/4-20 bolt and cut a shoulder on it on my metal lathe so it would just drop in the carbs where the needles seat. Using a small hammer I hit the end of the tool so it would impart a small 35 degree angle where the point of the needles sit. Now the ends of the needles with their 35 degree points sit in a hole that matches them. No more leaking needle seats! That fixed a lot of other carb problems I was having l
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